Front Drive Axle Seal?

Discussion in 'Chevy Truck Forum' started by FinallyFlying, Dec 21, 2010.

  1. FinallyFlying

    FinallyFlying Full Member

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    Was changing the oil in my 1991 K1500 today and noticed this huge greasy mess apparently leaking from the drive axle seal (see pictures). Both sides are leaking.

    I don't know much about suspension stuff but how big a deal is this? And what needs to be replaced..the whole drive shaft or can just the seal boots be replaced. If just the boots, does the drive axle have to be removed to do this?

    I've read in other posts that the drive axle can be difficult to remove so am thinking about having someone do it rather than tackling it myself..just want to be prepared before I go in so i don't get ripped off.

    Drive Axle Leak 002.jpg Drive Axle Leak 003.jpg Drive Axle Leak 004.jpg Drive Axle Leak 006.jpg Drive Axle Leak 007.jpg
     
  2. onthethreshold

    onthethreshold Senior Member

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    If the cv-joints are still in good shape you can buy the boot kit at and automotive parts store for about $15 or so.It's a pretty simple job most of the time.Good way to check the cv's is to go to a parking lot ,put it in four wheel mode and drive it in figure eight's forward and backwards.If you hear clunking and feel resistance on steering wheel they need replaced.Make sure the boot kits come with the grease to repack them and if there is alot of crud in them clean it real good before you repair it.
     
  3. zombie1969

    zombie1969 Senior Member

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    The only ones Ive used for that model are GM boot kits because I worked at a dealer and 2 special tools were needed to install the end clamps properly.Dont know what a auto part store boot kit will look like.I have used the 2 peice boots on a 89 s15 jimmy I had and it worked good and didnt have to remove the axle to do the job.I think they were called quick boot or something like that.
     
  4. 87c10slammer

    87c10slammer Senior Member

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    if the axles are shot and you need to replace the whole cv assembly it isnt to hard of a job.. when its a torsion bar setup like yours is and im doing it on the ground i usually put the truck on jackstands by the frame and use the jack under the control arm to keep the torsion bar from popping when i take the balljoint bolt out.. i usuall just take the bottom or top bolt out and the tie rod so i can pop the axle out without haveing to take off the brakes and everyhting else.. sometimes you need a little heat and i big hammer to break the splines loose but normally i take the big center bolt out first and then put the truck in 4wd and move it back and forth a few times before i even put the truck on the lift.. i think you need something like a deep 36mm socket and a good impact to break those bolts loose.. once you get the axles out of the hubs the hardest part is getting them out of the diff.. i would recomend replaceing your diff seals with the new axles but if they still feel kinda soft and dont look cracked then you should be alright.. throw everthing back together and take her out for a test drive... if you dont feel confident with what your doing then i would take it to a shop.. also something to consider would be replacing your hubs at the same time if they havent been changed before. i have learned that thats normally the next thing to go and then you have to do everhting over again almost.. lol antiseize on the axle hub splines is your freind just remembor that.. lol
     

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