Differences in Axle lockers

[junior3382]

Well, I thought I was prepared this. I have been a member here for a long time, and been researching this project for a while. But I guess I was wrong.

Seems in my search for axles and parts for my SAS there are several different types of lockers for front and rear axles. I am sure they all have a purpose, but now I am lost. Here is what I have been offered in addition to the axle assembly:

Detroit Locker

ARB Locker

TracLock Posi Locker

I know the detroits are popular since it is mentioned more then the rest. I recognize what Posi means and I am assumin that the ARB is for an air controled locker so it can be shut off? I dunno. I thought the gears were either open or not. I know some offer the ability to control them like in some of the new trucks sold that have an electronic switch to have eiter. Toyota is BIG on that.

But when it comes to my little project here, which is the better application? not nescesarily the better product or better known name, but what are the differences? I wanted a part time locker setup in the rear, meaning if I can get it controllable that would be great. So when I am driving on the road I do not get the wheel churp in turns. Open or limited slip works better then. But in the front I wanted just a plain locker sicne the only time it would used is when it is needed.... and my TC will not even send power there or resistance while in 2wd. Make any sense?

I would hate to spend the money on something I will be unhappy with. So I trust you guys to help me out and help me to understand the differences between these once and for all. Like I said, I could make a semi-educated guess here, and if I were to go that route it would be the ARB in the rear and detroit in the front. But I would not want to assume this. And again, perhaps I am thinking to hard...lol... But I know there are at least two members who will understand my train of thought here...lol.

[75K30]

There are only two types of lockers and these are "automatic" and "selectable".
Automatic, is just that, automatic.
Selectable, is also just that selectable.

A locker will lock both axles together and provide equal torque to be applied to both axle shafts.
A slectable locker will be open until it is called upon. ARB requires compressed air to activate, OX is cable activated, and The Eaton E locker is electronically activated.

That tru trac is not a locker at all, it is actually just a limited slip, and there are several limited slips availabe.
If you chose not to spend he coin on a selectable locker for the front, you should select a very strong LS unit like a gear driven unit.

Here is a run down on some of Eatons stuff:

Differentials - Eaton.com

This is a huge topic, and has many answers based upon application.

[junior3382]

Okay, that makes sense. So I guess I am after a selectible locker in the rear and an auto locker in the front.... If I under stood you right....

Does not HAVE to be air controlled in the rear, just that it will remain open while daily driving, at least on city streets. In the front, well i am only going to have the front activated when actually off road, so I guess full time is fine... or am I wrong there?

I will take a look at that article after I post this. I think of all the members, you are probably more aware of what I am trying to do here 75K30, so in your opinion, what should I choose?

[junior3382]

Okay, after reading that info, which really breaks it down, thanks, (why can I never find this sorta thing when i do an internet search?) LOL, I like this one the best... at least for the rear, would this work?


ELocker

• Virtually maintenance free
• Push button traction
• Positive-Electronic lock

The ELocker’s electromagnetic locking mechanism is the next generation of aftermarket differential technology. Performs as an open differential until you decide that you need more traction. Eaton ELocker is your push button solution to almost any traction problem.
Designed expressly for 4-wheel drive systems to give you the ability to lock or unlock the differentials when necessary. When locked the Eaton ELocker performs as a full locker, capturing 100% of available torque and sending it equally to both ends of the axle.
The ELocker is built with precision-forged gears that are designed to mesh perfectly, providing improved strength and durability over a standard cut gear. Its ease of installation, reliability and push-button activation make ELocker an absolute must for all traction and off-road performance applications.

[75K30]

Yes, that is a sweet locker, but rather spendy.
I run Detroits in the rears of my daily drivers, and I put plenty of street driven miles on them. I tow trailers with them, and I often see all types of terrain. Even snow covered roads, and rainy days. Frozen roads are a chore, but they would be with anything really. I do not have chains that will fit 40 or 44 inch rubber so I am a little limited.

The hot set-up is a detroit out back, and a gear driven LS unit up front.
If the bucks will permit, the selectable locker up front might be the best.
This is because you can disengage the front during tight turns. Remember that if your front end is locked up, it will try to go straight. Since the tires cant turn at different speeds required to make a turn, it will naturally try to go straight. This is real tough on front end components, and steering input becomes real tough. For this reason, the LS units are a plus, or selectable lockers are desireable.
Out back, since the wheels do not do any of the steering, having them engaged once in a while will only result in a slight wheel chirp, and can easily be dealt with.
Automatic lockers are designed to "ratchet" and permit the different wheel speeds during turns to help limit this tire chirp problem.
You driving style will change a little, and you will have to get off the gas and almost coast through turns, and not apply too much gas to prevent the locker from engaging, and stabbing the throttle will be a thing of the past, unless you want the locker to engage.
Engagement is alright and usually not harsh. Again, they can be driven on the street without too much of a problem.
Most folks like the selectabe front and rear, but this is real expensive,so they save it for the front and an auto locker in the rear, and if this is still too expensive, the auto locker out back and a gear type LS up front. These actally are pretty tight.

[junior3382]

Since I would not really be driving in 4wd on the road normally, except in the snow, if and when that happens here in PA... Would an auto locker be fine up front? or even for off road would it be desirable to use a limited slip unit? I mean the front axle would not be engaged.... or am I thinking backwards? I doubt I will run auto locking hubs due to cost, so if I have to manual lock them, leaving them unlocked and the TC in 2wd, would this be an issue?

I know I seem like a doof in this, but I do not want to spend the money twice...lol... I want to build this right the first time, and be satisfied with it.

Now from what i understand, wouldn't just about any used axle have a limited slip setup anyways? I mean don't they have a fail safe to run power to both wheels in the event of slippage? Though i guess it doesn't matter since I have to replace the whole gearing anyways.

Forgive me, it is early in the morning, and I just woke up, so I am sure this makes very little sense. I will come back to it later. LOL.

[75K30]

Well the misconception about front lockers and locking hubs is that one can get out of the vehicle and just "unlock" a hub, or even both and drive the vehicle like normal.
I can tell you from experiance that this is as close to impossible as it gets.
Unlocking the front hubs with a locker or real good LS unit is not as easy as turning the dial. One the diff is loaded, and it binds up, turning the dial to free the hubs is just not going to happen without taking the load off of the diff. It really requires a flat surface and some technique to accomplish this.
You will not want to run anything other than manual locking hubs, anyhing other than this is a waste of time and money. Auto locking hubs are for pavement pounders and offer zero advantages. Plus any trction aid will trick auto locking hubs and these can and will not work properly.
Just so you know, only one of my rigs actually runs a real detroit locker up front, and it is a pain. Others (1) run either a selectable up front (ARB) or the power lok limited slip. Even my big trucks with 42's and 44's run a power lok up front.
These still have difficulties unlocking the front hubs, but not as difficult as the one with a detroit.
Plus the LS unit still permits the vehicles wheels to turn at different speeds during a turn. This really helps when it is in 4wd.
This still has

[junior3382]

Okay, i guess I mis represented myself. I was not planning to run anything but manual locking hubs. And when it is in 4wd, I would not want it to bind. I guess my question is when the hubs are "unlocked" does it matter what kind of diff is up front? I mean in 2wd with the hubs "unlocked" will it still bind?

Again, I do not want to sound like an idiot here, I am just venturing into brand new grounds and do not want to "learn from my own mistakes". I would prefer to learn from others mistakes....lol.... And get it right the first time. Know what i mean?

All I am trying to accomplish is a comfortable, unhindered 2wd street ride when traveling, all the while making sure that when the situation calls for it, I have equal power to both front wheels to make the likelyhood of getting stuck under my own over anxious ambition more unlikely when I am using the 4wd....lol.... thats all.

[93blazer]

im glad your askin these questions ,cuz i was just fixin to start a thread on this same issue

[93blazer]

ok new question for my lockers what size axles do i have for the blazer and the yota front axle ? need help so i can price my lockers