1979 Ford F150 4X4 brake job

[75K30]

Originally Posted by hotrodpc

75.. I am curious, how does this system work with an E brake or does it?

Darn good question man. While the 118 dollar disc brake upgrade is a steal, it sounds terribly cool to say that it can be done for 99 bucks.
In reality there ar brake lines, fittings and other misc stuff that can make this a very conservative figure, but it is still cheap.

Many disc brake kits use the chevy front caliper and the front calipers do not have parking brakes. Many guys will use a hydraulic lock like the Mico lock to hold a vehicle.
In the event that a parking brake has to be used, such as for inspected vehicles, the option to use an El Dorado rear caliper is still available, and this has parking brake provisions. Again this is an added cost, as these cost about 75 bucks each.
This is where things start to get a little more on the expensive side, but still reasonable. I mean I had several thousand dollars in a set of Brembo brakes for my vette, so a few hundred bucks here is a drop in the bucket, and when one considers the price to replace drum brake components, this upgrade carries minimal costs differences, and the labor is minimal.

This requires a good working brake system from the beginning, and the OP's truck appears to be complete though partially neglected.
I suggested to the OP that he keep this system and clean all of the parts in an attempt to just get the brakes working again.
I see all of the hardware is intact, and probably just not in good working order. I would probably just get the hydraulic system functional, and fix the existing brakes.
I was originally under the impression that all of the brake components were either missing or ruined. They look fine to me, and all of that looks repairable.
I suggested that he fix what he has. This will minimize cost, and effort. No need to confuse the issue right now with a disc brake upgrade, but i thought that I would throw some tech and some options out there for our users as an option.
Too much information that can help is usefull to some.
I should probably write this as a formal "sticky" in some sort of tech thing. Maybe one day.

[hotrodpc]

Yes, we are the same page then. just ifx what he has for now. Keep it simple an inexpenisive as possible unitl he gets to know the truck. And the avoid the confusion. I was just curious about that E brake thing, true there is the electronic brake like the Micro lock and those work very well in most cases. I seen a car once that did that rear disk conversion, and he used electic line lock on the front wheels to do his burnouts, and it also doubled as his E brake in Muncie 4 speed car. I think it just a solenoid that applies the front brakes in the master cylinder. I would hope the sysem knows if the battery goes dead to keep the solenoid applied in that situation, and have a manual overide in the event you need to move it.

[batty1214]

I must say, I would'nt skimp on your braking system.......... to add a story.... I got to work this morning only to find my work truck was smashed up really good(totalled..... not a usable part on it....... You see, a guy had borrowed it to run to the pit, and was In the mud...... It gummed up his rear brakes and the front pads were bad(thats Why I had a do not use tag that he ignored on it) and he bailed out just before the truck went into 25 foot ravine..... I will post pictures when I get my camera(if it's not gone when I get to work in the morning) ANYWAY, Im getting a new truc out of the deal, and the guy may loose his job........ long story short..... rebuild your brakes, but don't cheap out..... the guy who rebuilt the truck before I started as a mechanic used the Cheapest brakes he could get.... and It almost killed a guy. It might be a kick to the crotch at first, but when You have to have them You won;t regret the extra money spent...

[ErwinRommel]

Well do I need rear brakes? A guy I know doesn't have rear brakes on his 4x4. One guy said I can use high profermance front brakes and just keep the front brakes.

I would prefer rear brakes but...yeah...

what year Chevy though 750?

I would love to get the rear disc since you said they are better with the mud than rear drums.

BUT I can stick with rear drums if I have to, I can just clean them after I go in mud.

[75K30]

Originally Posted by ErwinRommel

Well do I need rear brakes? A guy I know doesn't have rear brakes on his 4x4. One guy said I can use high profermance front brakes and just keep the front brakes.

I would prefer rear brakes but...yeah...

what year Chevy though 750?

I would love to get the rear disc since you said they are better with the mud than rear drums.

BUT I can stick with rear drums if I have to, I can just clean them after I go in mud.

The year is not an issue. Since the straight axle was only available to a certain year, and the spindle patterns were similar, you simply have to find a set of brackets.

Now as far as your buddy that uses front brakes only,,,,,,,well this guy is an idiot. My apologies for the term that I used, but to use only front brakes, and no rear brakes, is irresponsible, and wreckless.
I dont care how effective the front brakes are, without rear brakes the vehicle is at a major handicap.
Ever drive up a hill with limited traction and not make it? Back down with only front brakes and see if you can keep the front end from slidding and flipping the truck over. Once the front wheels lock up, you loose a vital element, and this is the steering. Loose this going backwards and you are on your lid.
Also understand that rear brakes are applied before the front ones are. This is the job of the prop valve. Rear brakes limit brake dive and help to keep the vehicle straight. If you only have two wheels stopping you, then if one loses only a slight amount of traction, then you will pull dramatically to the side with the stopping power, and this means that you could change lanes without hesitation. Too easy to loose control or hit another vehicle. This is not a matter of if you will wreck, it has to do with when you will crash and how many people you will involve.

Drums are not bad, in this case, they are better than what you have, and as I recall, you have nothing in the back now, so any drum will be 100% better than what you have.
Get you existing system operational, and than upgrade.
Disc brakes in the rear are no good if you have zero hydraulic pressure.
Fix your drums, even if the drums are shot, they will stop, or at least help. Once you address the problem and get the brakes working, then you can upgrade. Dont upgrade first, since the upgrade is just that, an upgrade and not a fix.........

[ErwinRommel]

So, what should I buy for the rear?
-2 Drums?
-2 Brake Hardware Kit
-2 Brake Spring Kit
-2 Brake Pads (for each drum)

[hotrodpc]

Are your drums past tolerance of being turned? A drum that can be cleaned up with a turning and stay within safe tolerance, is just as good as a new one, or should say, would work just as good as a new, just that is can now be turned one less time. Drums are the biggest expense, so if you can have them turned for about $6-$8 a piece then go with that.
Hardware kit is the springs, and drum brakes use brake shoes instead of pads. 1 set will be a set of 4 shoes. And I would get wheel cylinders for each wheel too. Are your adjusters good and nice threads? If so, clean them up with brake clean and use white lithium on the threads.
2 drums turned. (Replace as needed if out of tolerance)
2 wheel cylinders, left and right
2 hardware kits, left and right
1 set brake shoes.
Inspect your brake lines. The brakes do not good at all of your fluid doesn't get to the cylinders.

[75K30]

^^^^ great advice, could not have said it better myself

[ErwinRommel]

Originally Posted by hotrodpc

Are your drums past tolerance of being turned? A drum that can be cleaned up with a turning and stay within safe tolerance, is just as good as a new one, or should say, would work just as good as a new, just that is can now be turned one less time. Drums are the biggest expense, so if you can have them turned for about $6-$8 a piece then go with that.
Hardware kit is the springs, and drum brakes use brake shoes instead of pads. 1 set will be a set of 4 shoes. And I would get wheel cylinders for each wheel too. Are your adjusters good and nice threads? If so, clean them up with brake clean and use white lithium on the threads.
2 drums turned. (Replace as needed if out of tolerance)
2 wheel cylinders, left and right
2 hardware kits, left and right
1 set brake shoes.
Inspect your brake lines. The brakes do not good at all of your fluid doesn't get to the cylinders.

Well the drums are, I don't know how old. What are adjusters? Hah, yeah I know. I suck for not knowing. Where are they located? The lines need to be cleaned off due to rust on them, other than that they look ok. The proportioning valve looked ok, it only had one line running to it and the other line (goes to the back brakes) wasn't on the valve.

[75K30]

Originally Posted by ErwinRommel

The proportioning valve looked ok, it only had one line running to it and the other line (goes to the back brakes) wasn't on the valve.

This is where you need to start you repair. That brake line that is not attached is not for a reason. I suspect a leaky wheel cylinder and instead of changing it, the PO simply cut and cripmed the line to maitain some sort of pressure. Fix this line, and get some pressure to the rear brakes. Flush the line and try to get as much rust as possible out of the line. Check for leaks at the wheel cylinder after you have cleaned all of the hardware.
Leave all of the old stuff alone, dont start tearing it apart just yet. You will only add to the problem.
Buy some cans of brake cleaner, and spray the years of dirt away. You will be amazed at how clean the hardware will become. You might even see the different collors of orange and blue that they were originally painted.Once this is cleaned, then you can install the old drum, add some fluid to the master and start pumping the brakes to see where the leaks spring up. Once you resolve some of the small problems, you can then attack the smaller ones. First try to get some hydraulic pressure to the rear, and determine whether or not you need a master cylinder. Then work you way to the brakes.
Isolating the problems in small steps will be mush easier to understand and to fix.