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| 4x4 trucks / off road - 4x4 trucks, off road truck help. and related discussions. |
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| | #41 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia
Posts: 565
| Quote:
Yeah, I need to do this. Um, what are the adjusters though? I know the master cylinder had a little leak where it hooks up to the brake booster. Does this mean I need a new booster or just a master cylinder? ALSO, is there a special tool I have to have to do a brake job? | |
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| | #42 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,992
| ![]() This is an example of an adjuster. If it is siezed up you cant set the proper adjustment on the brake shoes. Time to pick up a book and start reading about procedures. KNow that the shoes are different sizes so you will have to pay attention to this, or you will not install them correctly. A book is worth its weight in gold. A master that leaks between it and the booster does not mean that the booster is bad, but if the booster pulled fluid into it, it will go bad soon. The dighram does not like brake fluid inside of it. Dont worry about that yet, put some fluid into the master cylinder and fix the lines. Get some pressure in the system, and see where the leaks are. Fix the leaks, and I bet the brakes will maintain some pressure. If you can get pressure than you can move forward. |
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| | #43 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 2,847
| Rear Brake Diagram Don't sweat not knowing stuff. Thats what were here for. It appears we are all saying the same thing, just in a differant lingo which is great, because you are going to understand at least one of us, or parts from all of us. Once you get this done and realize how easy it is, you'll feel alot better educated and have saved yourself a load of cash. This diagram is most likely to be differant than you system, but it will have many similarites and you can use it to familairize your self with the parts terminology and names. The brake adjusters are at the bottom of the brake shoe assembly. Be careful not to get these mixed up from one side to the other. One is threaded one way, one is threaded the other and if you switch them, then your brakes will get loser rather than tighter when they self adjust. This diag ought to help you out. |
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| | #44 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia
Posts: 565
| Um, my truck steering is wacked too. The steer wheel part is loose and you can push it up and down and then you have to turn the wheel in a nearly 360 degree turn to make the wheel turn that way. I don't know if the steer shock is the cause of that or if the truck needs a new steering column? |
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| | #45 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: on your 9
Posts: 3,192
| Quote:
2 drums turned. (Replace as needed if out of tolerance) 2 wheel cylinders, one each: left and right (identical parts) 1 hardware kit, should contain 10 springs and 4 retainer pins for left and right 1 set brake shoes (4 shoes). Note that parts go together differently for left and right sides. Save yourself grief by taking pictures of the old ones before removing so you have a guide for reassembly, memory is a bad thing to bet on. Post those pictures up and we can label the parts for you for your exact truck. | |
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| | #46 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: on your 9
Posts: 3,192
| Notice how in these pics you can see which way the spring is winding and which is on the top anchor behind which. You'll want to know about the way each end of each spring is connected, hooked from in front or back, which way is twist (left or right brake), which shoes is bigger, leading or trailing. The more you see and note before taking it apart the more chance putting it back together is a snap not a headache. Also this job requires a certain amount of pushing and pulling so it is very important you take the prior warning about jacks serious. I don't use stands, I use 4x12s stacked 3 or 4 high to within about 1" of frame or such. Get something solid under it before this kind of work, where you will be, you wil be defenseless. |
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| | #47 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 2,847
| Sound like you just need a bearing replaced in the column. Not sure if it similar to a 64 GMC, but I had that issue with it. Turned out just to be a simple bearing replacement. |
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| | #48 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia
Posts: 565
| I'm going to have to get a new adjustment screw, new rear brake lines (the left rear didn't even have a brake line running to it!), and that little silver brake line box on the rear axle. |
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| | #49 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 2,847
| I suppose you must be talking about the T in the rear axle? Is it blocked off at that T where the left brake line SHOULD go? If not, and fluid is not coming out of it, then your fluid is blocked off somewhere else too closer to the master cylinder. Sound like you need to start at the master and follow the rear brake lines all the way to the rear end, then to each wheel cylinder. |
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| | #50 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia
Posts: 565
| Ok, I figured out why the rubber hose is hooked up on the rear. The left rear brake has no brake line running to it. I also need new lines for the rear and the little silver brake box on the rear axle. What's it called? Also there was a line in the drum that had a loop that went around the anchor pin peice and I remember it was the parking...something...anyone help me out? I have some pictures of what I have done... ![]() ![]() |
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| brake lines, brakes |
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