1979 Ford F150 4X4 brake job - Page 7

hotrodpc · 04-19-2009, 08:13 PM

Along with getting the size, don't forget to get you a tubing bender. Probably cost you about $15 to get one of those cheap ones that will do 3 or 4 differant size lines. Also if you will be cutting your own, don't forget to put the flare nut on BEFORE you flare the end. I do not recommend this though. Just try to buy the right size and length already to go, then just bend the tubing as needed, keeping it as close to the axles tubes as possible so you don't hang the line on something while playing rough.

ErwinRommel · 04-20-2009, 07:35 PM

The brake like is a %#%#% to remove. The silver thing that goes into the rear axle that hooks up all of the brake lines in the rear, and I think that rubber hose in the one picture in the rear is suppose to be a vaccuum hose. I have to get that silver thing off but I don't know how. The lines are so rusted.
The skeeters were biting at my peter and pestering me. I just gave up with it today. I did buy the adjustment screw assembly, it came with the cable. I notice I am missing the long bar that goes in the drum, so I have to get that thing now.

Man, this is aggervating stuff!

hotrodpc · 04-20-2009, 08:29 PM

Don't give up on it. Sounds like you are getting educated and starting to ger a handle on it, if you are noticing things wrong and missing. Yes, the brake lines will be a major PITA because of rusted tight. You may even end up replacing more than you want to because some of it will rust, twist and break off. But on the bright side, once you replace it, it will probably be good for another 30 years. Don't worry about the skeeter bites on your peter. The chicks like the extra bumps. Just so long as it isn't the wrong kind of bumps.

crabtruck · 04-20-2009, 08:58 PM

LOL hotrod, PG PG PG !!! With a goal of G.

Quote:

Man, this is aggervating stuff!

This is how most folks start,
and why they are willing to help.
Soon you'll be wearing a coach's hat.

ErwinRommel · 04-20-2009, 09:02 PM

Lol. Sketters are rough.

I wish I had freakin jack stands instead of cinderblocks and wood. What size brake lines sound good? hmmmmm...

also what's that bar called in the drums?

crabtruck · 04-20-2009, 09:42 PM

If you are talking about the bar that runs below cylinder,
shaped like an "H" drawn with crayon, just notches at the ends,
that's the "parking brake link" as in the drawing I posted above.

It keeps the tops of shoes spreading when the cable is pulled.
You had shoes in this drum and this part was missing ??

ErwinRommel · 04-21-2009, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crabtruck

If you are talking about the bar that runs below cylinder,
shaped like an "H" drawn with crayon, just notches at the ends,
that's the "parking brake link" as in the drawing I posted above.

It keeps the tops of shoes spreading when the cable is pulled.
You had shoes in this drum and this part was missing ??

I think that's it. It is missing unless I put it up somewhere. Blah..

ErwinRommel · 04-21-2009, 08:26 PM

I looked on advance and they had a thing called a rear drum brake bar but they don't have it....

hotrodpc · 04-21-2009, 08:36 PM

You got a Pull a Part in your neighborhood? Little things like this are sometimes hard to find in a retail store becasue they next to never wear out, therefore they can't sell 1000 of them a day so they don't stock it. When I need little things like this, I pay my $1 to get into to Pull A Part, and after I leave you may as well call the place Pocket A Part. And I am an honest person, but they make enough off of me, so I doubt they would mind and I don't feel guilty. I'll assure, if you have a U Pull It, a Pull a Part, or something of that nature, you'll find your part there. I say its highly unlikely but occasionaly you can even find brake lines that are already pre bent that someone had replaced at one time already and they are not all rusty. I've been lucky. Of course those I pay for. Its not that I won't buy at a retailer, but many times an experienced brake shop has replaced them for a customer at one time or another, and they are or look professionally done or a dealer part. You may give it a try. When I was younger in my late teens, early 20's, the U Pull It places were my playground. I learned alot in there disecting things. Then I'd go home and fix mine.

ErwinRommel · 04-22-2009, 12:02 PM

Yeah, thats true man.

04-22-2009, 12:02 PM	#70
ErwinRommel Banned Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia Posts: 579	Yeah, thats true man. Last edited by ErwinRommel; 04-22-2009 at 12:22 PM.

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04-19-2009, 08:13 PM	#61
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,145	Along with getting the size, don't forget to get you a tubing bender. Probably cost you about $15 to get one of those cheap ones that will do 3 or 4 differant size lines. Also if you will be cutting your own, don't forget to put the flare nut on BEFORE you flare the end. I do not recommend this though. Just try to buy the right size and length already to go, then just bend the tubing as needed, keeping it as close to the axles tubes as possible so you don't hang the line on something while playing rough.

04-20-2009, 07:35 PM	#62
ErwinRommel Banned Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia Posts: 579	The brake like is a %#%#% to remove. The silver thing that goes into the rear axle that hooks up all of the brake lines in the rear, and I think that rubber hose in the one picture in the rear is suppose to be a vaccuum hose. I have to get that silver thing off but I don't know how. The lines are so rusted. The skeeters were biting at my peter and pestering me. I just gave up with it today. I did buy the adjustment screw assembly, it came with the cable. I notice I am missing the long bar that goes in the drum, so I have to get that thing now. Man, this is aggervating stuff!

04-20-2009, 08:29 PM	#63
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,145	Don't give up on it. Sounds like you are getting educated and starting to ger a handle on it, if you are noticing things wrong and missing. Yes, the brake lines will be a major PITA because of rusted tight. You may even end up replacing more than you want to because some of it will rust, twist and break off. But on the bright side, once you replace it, it will probably be good for another 30 years. Don't worry about the skeeter bites on your peter. The chicks like the extra bumps. Just so long as it isn't the wrong kind of bumps.

04-20-2009, 09:02 PM	#65
ErwinRommel Banned Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia Posts: 579	Lol. Sketters are rough. I wish I had freakin jack stands instead of cinderblocks and wood. What size brake lines sound good? hmmmmm... also what's that bar called in the drums?

04-20-2009, 09:42 PM	#66
crabtruck Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: on your 9 Posts: 3,364	If you are talking about the bar that runs below cylinder, shaped like an "H" drawn with crayon, just notches at the ends, that's the "parking brake link" as in the drawing I posted above. It keeps the tops of shoes spreading when the cable is pulled. You had shoes in this drum and this part was missing ??

04-21-2009, 08:26 PM	#68
ErwinRommel Banned Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia Posts: 579	I looked on advance and they had a thing called a rear drum brake bar but they don't have it....

04-21-2009, 08:36 PM	#69
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,145	You got a Pull a Part in your neighborhood? Little things like this are sometimes hard to find in a retail store becasue they next to never wear out, therefore they can't sell 1000 of them a day so they don't stock it. When I need little things like this, I pay my $1 to get into to Pull A Part, and after I leave you may as well call the place Pocket A Part. And I am an honest person, but they make enough off of me, so I doubt they would mind and I don't feel guilty. I'll assure, if you have a U Pull It, a Pull a Part, or something of that nature, you'll find your part there. I say its highly unlikely but occasionaly you can even find brake lines that are already pre bent that someone had replaced at one time already and they are not all rusty. I've been lucky. Of course those I pay for. Its not that I won't buy at a retailer, but many times an experienced brake shop has replaced them for a customer at one time or another, and they are or look professionally done or a dealer part. You may give it a try. When I was younger in my late teens, early 20's, the U Pull It places were my playground. I learned alot in there disecting things. Then I'd go home and fix mine.