1979 Ford F150 4X4 brake job - Page 8

ErwinRommel · 04-23-2009, 12:08 PM

Is it true that if water gets in a automatic tranny, it will burn it up but in the manual tranny, it won't? Some boy told me about this.

Also, my steering column does move up and down in the cab that connects to the steering wheel and the steering is realllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll loose. What should I do? Also, the other rear brake drum has all the parts so I can use it for help!! yay.

ErwinRommel · 04-24-2009, 12:11 PM

How do you remove the front rotors? Just take off the 4x4 lock?

ErwinRommel · 04-26-2009, 03:26 PM

FINALLY! I got the rear brakes done! Problem though....I tried putting on the drum today and the shoes hit the drum and won't let the drum go in place.....
Any ideas?

Also got the rear brake line on (though it is too long a little), it still will work.

hotrodpc · 04-26-2009, 08:05 PM

Not a real good description of your problen here, but I assuming that maybe your brake adjusters need to be screwed in. Very common when you replace the shoes that you have to turn the adjusters back in to get the drum on.

ErwinRommel · 04-26-2009, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hotrodpc

Not a real good description of your problen here, but I assuming that maybe your brake adjusters need to be screwed in. Very common when you replace the shoes that you have to turn the adjusters back in to get the drum on.

That may be the problem. That's what I was thinking.

hotrodpc · 04-26-2009, 09:41 PM

Its OK to back them off to far, but just don't forget to tighten them back up from the rear access hole after you get the drum on. I usually back the adjuster off, put the drum on several times and adjust them in the front. Not sure about everyone else here, so you might hear some different opinions. I like a good high firm pedal and low pedal travel on my e-brake, so I tighten the adjuster, just to where I can feel the shoes dragging the drum just a bit, but yet the drum is moving very freely.

bradrhale · 04-27-2009, 03:21 PM

that hole for the adjuster from the factory comes with a rubber plug. this was designed to keep debris and dirt out of that part but many people take them out and throw them away. that, and they get hard and brittle over time. just loosen it enough to get the drum on there. no sense in backing it off all the way and rotating it all the way back with the brake spoon or screwdriver. whichever you are using.
all drums are going to have a lip on the edge from where the shoes does not touch it. is this lip fairly large??

ErwinRommel · 04-27-2009, 08:20 PM

Well, I finally got the drums on. I had to screw the adjustment screw in. I manage to get the lines on. I got the old brake line hooked back up to the proportioning valve. Cranked the truck up....and........................
no brakes! I know it would do that because I have to bleed the lines. I just forgot how to do that. Lol. Just take off the caliper plugs on both front calipers and the rear wheel cylinders plugs? Is the technique..."work from the front to the rear"?

Here's some pics..yeah, I know the brake line is long for both sides...and yeah, a professional didn't do it.

hotrodpc · 04-27-2009, 08:29 PM

Pretty new parts. I am not 100% positive on this, so maybe someone else can chime in, but I think the anchor pin plate on that top pic is upside down. Should be hard to fix. If you can pull the shoes apart some, spin it around with a screwdriver. And then again, it may just be find the way it is, but I am thiniking its upside down.

ErwinRommel · 04-27-2009, 08:32 PM

It's sideways, lol. I got to get that tomorrow. How do you bleed the lines though? Dumb question I know-lol.

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04-23-2009, 12:08 PM	#71
ErwinRommel Banned Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia Posts: 579	Is it true that if water gets in a automatic tranny, it will burn it up but in the manual tranny, it won't? Some boy told me about this. Also, my steering column does move up and down in the cab that connects to the steering wheel and the steering is realllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll loose. What should I do? Also, the other rear brake drum has all the parts so I can use it for help!! yay.

04-24-2009, 12:11 PM	#72
ErwinRommel Banned Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia Posts: 579	How do you remove the front rotors? Just take off the 4x4 lock?

04-26-2009, 03:26 PM	#73
ErwinRommel Banned Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia Posts: 579	FINALLY! I got the rear brakes done! Problem though....I tried putting on the drum today and the shoes hit the drum and won't let the drum go in place..... Any ideas? Also got the rear brake line on (though it is too long a little), it still will work.

04-26-2009, 08:05 PM	#74
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,145	Not a real good description of your problen here, but I assuming that maybe your brake adjusters need to be screwed in. Very common when you replace the shoes that you have to turn the adjusters back in to get the drum on.

04-26-2009, 09:41 PM	#76
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,145	Its OK to back them off to far, but just don't forget to tighten them back up from the rear access hole after you get the drum on. I usually back the adjuster off, put the drum on several times and adjust them in the front. Not sure about everyone else here, so you might hear some different opinions. I like a good high firm pedal and low pedal travel on my e-brake, so I tighten the adjuster, just to where I can feel the shoes dragging the drum just a bit, but yet the drum is moving very freely.

04-27-2009, 03:21 PM	#77
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 8,014	that hole for the adjuster from the factory comes with a rubber plug. this was designed to keep debris and dirt out of that part but many people take them out and throw them away. that, and they get hard and brittle over time. just loosen it enough to get the drum on there. no sense in backing it off all the way and rotating it all the way back with the brake spoon or screwdriver. whichever you are using. all drums are going to have a lip on the edge from where the shoes does not touch it. is this lip fairly large??

04-27-2009, 08:20 PM	#78
ErwinRommel Banned Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia Posts: 579	Well, I finally got the drums on. I had to screw the adjustment screw in. I manage to get the lines on. I got the old brake line hooked back up to the proportioning valve. Cranked the truck up....and........................ no brakes! I know it would do that because I have to bleed the lines. I just forgot how to do that. Lol. Just take off the caliper plugs on both front calipers and the rear wheel cylinders plugs? Is the technique..."work from the front to the rear"? Here's some pics..yeah, I know the brake line is long for both sides...and yeah, a professional didn't do it.

04-27-2009, 08:29 PM	#79
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,145	Pretty new parts. I am not 100% positive on this, so maybe someone else can chime in, but I think the anchor pin plate on that top pic is upside down. Should be hard to fix. If you can pull the shoes apart some, spin it around with a screwdriver. And then again, it may just be find the way it is, but I am thiniking its upside down.

04-27-2009, 08:32 PM	#80
ErwinRommel Banned Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia Posts: 579	It's sideways, lol. I got to get that tomorrow. How do you bleed the lines though? Dumb question I know-lol.