1979 Ford F150 4X4 brake job

[ErwinRommel]

Ok, yall told me to make a new thread so BOOM!

I need basically back brakes but I am going to just redo everything. The lines looked ok, just rusted but I didn't spot no leaks. 750 said I can do a brake disc conversion. What's this all about and how much will it cost me? I heard it grabs better, is this true?

I will post pictures of the brake lines, etc, that is already on the truck in a few.

[ErwinRommel]

OK

Here's my baby:


I need a new one of these Brake Cylinder Box:


WHAT IS THIS? THE BRAKE LINE HAS BEEN LOOSE FROM IT:


This is part of the brake line, why did they put it like this? It's hooked up on a little metal piece on the brake line which is on the back axle:


the other side brake line:

[ErwinRommel]

Also, the steer column is loose. The steering wheel up to the gear shift moves up and down and it isn't suppose to do that. How much can the whole column,etc be?

I think this:


:is also the problem with the steering, the front stabilizer shock. What do yall think?

[bradrhale]

i think your master cylinder, the brake box, looks alot old. the second pic looks like some sort of brake proportioning valve.

[batty1214]

Originally Posted by bradrhale

i think your master cylinder, the brake box, looks alot old. the second pic looks like some sort of brake proportioning valve.

you speaky good english brad......

anyway, I do agree, I would think that you might want to find a new master cylinder, and I would say a propoptioning valve of some sort....... as to a disc brake conversion.......a google search turned up many many options for a conversion, and A guy at work Found a wrecked newer ford, and is swapping the axles from it into his 76 ford truck..... I dunno if this is a possibility, or what it would take to do.....

[hotrodpc]

Dude !!! By the looks of those pics, you don't have all your brakes hooked up??? That one long rubber hose does not appear to be a brake line to me, but if you have brake lines disconnected from the proportioning valve, and that one rubber line is just laying there, I think the rear end?, then you are missing some brakes. You little brake box as you called it, is called a master cylinder. Its quite common for the outside of that to get a little rust like that, especially if exposed to water. Just hope its not like that internally. Just cuz its ugly, it may be just fine. Although, it appears those brakes have been severly negleceted. Before you do another thing to that ride, I would do the brakes first. The very first thing I do to a vehicle when I buy it used, is fully inspect the brakes and brake lines. Especially for a 1/2 ton, and not sure about Ford, but I know a chevy, they are cheap cheap cheap. For your safety and everyone elses, always make sure you have good brakes FIRST before you do anything to that vehicle. It does not dp any good to get a second gear scratch, have nice sounding exhaust or stereo system, do 12 seconds or even 15 seconds in the quarter if you can't stop the thing. Especially the fronts. Make sure all your lines are good, not rotted, calipers aren't leaking, pads good etc. The rears, you can skimp just a little if funds are tight, but make the fronts FIRST priority, then make sure your master cyl is good, then do your rears. IF you can't tell, I am very picky about brakes. I do a very thorough job, and done properly they can last years. I use Auto Zone for most of my brake parts, so I got lifetime pads, calipers and master cyl. Rotors are warranted I think 1 year.

[ErwinRommel]

Yeah they didn't have em hooked up, the front brakes worked but u got to push hard

[hotrodpc]

Reading your entire start the thread, I did see where 75 mentioned a rear disk brake conversion. Your priority should be just to get what is there properly operational. Persoanlly, I don't mind rear drum brakes. Yes, they have advantages, but I think they also have a disadvantage, and apparently GM agreed too. Not postive on the dates, but I think GM started doing rear disks in 2002??? And was it 2004 or 2005 was the last year for rear disks as standard equipment and they went back to rear drum. They don't always adjust right, and although your brakes are fine, they can cause extended pedal travel, meaning your pedal goes lower to the floor. I like a nice high firm pedal on my brakes and you don't always have that with a rear disk brake system. They are also heavier by the time you add a caliper to each side. Pro's and Con's either way, its whatever you prefer, I happen to prefer rear drum over rear disk. Most of your stopping power comes from the front anyway. Sounds to me you are on a budget, and I think you will save a chunk just sticking with the rear drums, especially if your drums are within tolerance and can be turned and you do not have to buy drums. Brake shoes shoudl be no more than $25 and if your wheel cylinders are not pitted very bad, a cylinder rebuild kit is about $8 per wheel. Spend the money and get you a decent ball hone for your wheel cylinders and rebuild your own. Very easy and much cheaper. Although last time I did mine, it was $6 or the kit, and I think the cylinders were $15 for lifetime warranty, so I got new cylinders instead. Just take your time, research parts cost, and just do it right. Any machine shop should charge about $6-$10 to turn your drums and rotors. Get that done too. Your brake job will last twice as long. The machine shop will also mic your drums and rotors for you and tell you if they are within tolerance or not.

[bradrhale]

my 2000 had rear disc and my FILs had drum on his 97.

[ErwinRommel]

So what should I do?