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07-02-2008, 11:41 AM
| #1 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Adrian, MI.
Posts: 146
 |  Amp & Sub I have never installed an amp and a subwoofer before. Can anyone tell how to do it? I already Have a stereo that is ready for a subwoofer, and I have all of the components that I need. I just need to know how to put it all together. Also, what is the spot on the amp that says "rem input"? There is a wire coming out of the back of my stereo that says "amp rem", should I connect that wire to the "rem input" on the amp? Thanks folks.
__________________ "You can polish a piece of junk all you want, but in the end, all you're left with is shiny junk." |
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07-02-2008, 11:49 AM
| #2 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Currently, I live in Lancaster country, Pennsylvania.
Posts: 2,974
 | the remote wire from the stereo tells the amp to turn on, a good amp wiring kit will come with 20ft of 22g signal wire, 12ft of 4 or 6g power wire, 6ft of 4 or 6g ground wire and 20ft of patch cables, or RCA cables. Will alsi have an inline fuse, and speaker wire. The power wire runs direct from the batt. Within the first three feet you want to splice in the inline fuse. The ground wire runs direct from the AMP to an unpainted solid metal ground somehwere near where you place the AMP> the patch cables and the Signal cable run from the head unit to the AMP. then the Speaker wires run from the AMP to the speakers. You want to run the power cable down a different side of the truck then the RCA to avoid the collection of engine noise through your AMP. This is not hard to do, just very time consuming to hide all the wires. If you have a decent head unit, it will have more then one set of RCA jacks, and if so, should be labled as a 'sub pre-out' or a 'mono' channel out. This is the one you want to use. If not, most AMP's have a built in crossover to block high frequency sounds. You will need to make sure you are sending only the low pass singals to the subs, they will sound cleaner and last longer. Time wise? I would guess about 1-2 hours to do it right. It is not hard bud, actually I find it to be a ton of fun.
__________________ Lets get some mud on the tires...eh?!?!?    OWN: 1998 Chevy Blazer ls 4x4 4.3l Vortec V6  1998 Mazda B3000 SE 4WD 3.0L V6 3" lift  31x10.50 Liberator A/T's |
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07-02-2008, 01:48 PM
| #3 |
| Moderator  Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Texas
Posts: 3,114
| Ditto to Jr. And to clariy Yes you will want to connect the amp rem(on unit) to rem input(on amp).
__________________ John Wayne 2000 F-350 7.3L Powerstroke 4x4 |
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07-03-2008, 01:14 PM
| #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Adrian, MI.
Posts: 146
| Thanks guys, you were waaaaaaaay more help than the losers at the car stereo place.
__________________ "You can polish a piece of junk all you want, but in the end, all you're left with is shiny junk." |
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07-03-2008, 01:37 PM
| #5 |
| Moderator Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Texas
Posts: 3,114
| that's because they want you to let them install it and charge you for it...
__________________ John Wayne 2000 F-350 7.3L Powerstroke 4x4 |
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07-03-2008, 02:08 PM
| #6 |
| mod-o-tator  Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: michigan
Posts: 4,059
| you can also do what i did and wire your rem wire from the amp to a toggle switch for those days when you don't feel like listening to the extra boom.
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07-03-2008, 03:12 PM
| #7 | ||
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Currently, I live in Lancaster country, Pennsylvania.
Posts: 2,974
| Quote:
Quote:
__________________ Lets get some mud on the tires...eh?!?!? OWN: 1998 Chevy Blazer ls 4x4 4.3l Vortec V6 1998 Mazda B3000 SE 4WD 3.0L V6 3" lift 31x10.50 Liberator A/T's | ||
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