Reference material needed for 77 chevy

[stuvw2mny]

I recently got a 77 chevy short bed pickup and need info on how to deal with it. I have tried searches on this forum for specific questions, but haven't had good luck getting answers. Can someone point me to some specific manuals, urls, or other sources of info about this truck, so I won't have to ask a bunch of stupid questions on the forum?

It is pretty solid and complete with a V8 (of course I was told it is a 350 ci), engine number V1211FBM, a 350 automatic transmission, a high energy distributor, an Edelbrock Torker manifold, Holly carburetor (unknown model), and headers. I suspect the engine is (was?) a mid-80's low compression smogger motor. If it is reasonably strong, that will be sufficeint for me as my heaviest planned use is light towing. I really don't want to go into the engine.

The truck shows signs of having some "cobbling" which is understandable for a 30 year old truck, so I need some pictures showing how things are supposed to be installed. I need info such as identifying the engine and carburetor, tune up specs, "correct" routing of the transmission cooler lines, a good electrical diagram to hook up missing wires, how to remove and replace the heater core, years of interchangeable parts, etc. I have been doing virtually all my mechanical work for several decades; it is just that I am not familiar with this model, and it is sufficiently "messed up" that I need reference material. Thanks.

[75K30]

AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year

Should keep you very busy for years.
As for your carb, simply remove the air cleaner and look for the ID numbers on the choke horn. 4bbl carbs will start with a number 4, and 2bbl carbs with a 2.
Example: 4779-xxxx. Easy to identify. Beauty of the Holley carb, is many parts are crazy interchangeable, so finding replacement parts will be easy.
You can find plenty of engine decoders using the number and your favorite search engine.
I am not sure that number you have posted is the correct one. I do not recognize any of the numbers, and have never seen so many letters. Where are you looking for this number? Any 12 series casting number would indicate an LS"X", angine, and I am sure this is not the case.
This may help;
MorTec, Inc. Chevy Smallblock V-8 Casting Numbers List

[brutis]

you could look at LMC truck site or catilog , some good pics how the parts they sell go , i have a 77 silverado w 454

[stuvw2mny]

Well, no answer as to the "magic" book about 77 chevy trucks, so I did some of my own searching. Found out from a 2005 Whitney catalog that the model run is apparently from 1973 thru 1980, with some parts interchange thru 2005. Went to library and found from Motor and Chilton manual that the distributor rotates clockwise and initial timing is 6 degrees, except when it is 4 or 8 degrees in different states or altitudes. That was about all I got from those manuals.

Could not get to casting number on back of block (too much snow and I didn't think taking the hood off by myself was smart), so the URL reference for casting numbers didn't help. But I think it is the best way (see later comments) to identify at least what the original block was. Doing some internet searching resulted in determining that the engine was made in the Flint factory(the V) on 12/11 and the FBM is called the engine suffix code. On 73-87 Pickup Engine Identification FBM is listed as a 454ci engine used on 1984 C20/K20 trucks and FMB is a 1984 or 1985 350ci engine used in 1984 or 1985 trucks. Yes, I verified the code on my engine is FBM. While the block is painted blue, it wears a pair of orange small block heads. Anybody ever hear of a 454 engine wearing small block heads? I don't think so. So either the factory stamp or the 73-87.com information is questionable. I need to get to the casting number, I think.

Next, I had no idea what LMC meant (thanks anyway) but found in Hemming an ad and internet URL for LMCtruck.com. I ordered their catalog which hopefully will arrive in 7 to 10 days.

I am amazed how hard it seems to be to get information on this truck. I gave up my 1950 Studebaker truck project (just too much work) in favor of this Chevy. Should I be looking for another, newer Chevy truck? or some other brand of truck?

[75K30]

Any Gen 1 small block chevy engine will be the same.
I am not too sure what information you are looking for specifically, but they are all almost identical.
Are you trying to locate factory specific stuff with the intentions of doing a factory correct restoration?
Are you just trying to figure out what you have.
A small block 454 does exist (just FYI) but it is safe to say not for purposes of this application.
A blue engine might indicate a remanufactured engine that is built on a production basis, Many builders painted these engine ther own color. You might poke around and find a plate that is attached to the probably next to one of the freeze plugs, that will indicate a serial number and limited specs from the builder.

Wish we knew what specific information you are looking for.
Maybe this info will help. It is a vin decoder that should help you at least with a starting point for what your truck should have
American Classic Truck Parts Inc

[stuvw2mny]

Thanks for the reply. I tried your suggested reference, but they only went up thru 1972?

At this point I am primarily trying to figure out what I have, and secondarily, maybe decide if I should sell this and jump to another (better?) truck. In the case of the Stude pickup, there was so much time and money required that by the time I got the vehicle I wanted I would be too old to drive. There comes a time in our lives when we need to offload or minimize projects. I am there. There was a decent-sounding, good-running later model Chevy truck recently advertised that I maybe should purchase and give up on this 77 truck. I am capable of lots of things, but need a starting point. I am admittedly somewhat ignorant of Chevys of this era. There is NO interest in restoring to original.

As I tried to indicate, the primary purpose of the 77 is to have a truck that could occasionaly (rarely) tow up to 3500# . A secondary purpose is for a vehicle with an automatic transmission that I can drive while recovering from upcoming leg operations. The body and interior are pretty decent

The vehicle does not run well at this point. It has a leaking transmission (bad rubber seals and cross-threaded transmission pan bolt so far identified) and a definite carb problem. It appears to load up at intersections, then stalls out once thru the intersection. We already found a bad ground connection. The carb, by the way has the following on it: 1 sticker stating "Remanuf by Holley" 0628-000000 and another sticker with 65-60457 (not sure about the 457) and 2758-666666 (not sure about the 5). There appears to be a casting number on the top throat of 6R7805 and a stamped number of 11761 on the top of the front float bowl cover. We have no clue what those mean. We need info about tuning this, if it is a proper size carb for the engine. Thanks again.

[crabtruck]

Don't know if this will help, but you can also call or email them

Locating Holley Carb List Number

Holley Performance Carburetors, Fuel Injection, and Fuel Pumps

[75K30]

Now we are getting somewhere.
Since the carb has been replaced, this indicates a modification and vin identification can be thrown out. So to the troubles at hand.
Simple cross threaded bolts in the transmisssion are easy to fix, and can be fixed as good as, or better than new in no time at all. If the pan appears to be good, then you can chose to keep it or replace it. One rule of thumb is to look to see if the pan has a drain in it. If it does not, then replace it for one that does. Some guys will install one, but with the availablity of low cost cast aluminum pans, my choice is replacement. Higher capacity pans with drains are cheap now, and many places have them. Heak chevy parts are so common that local grocery stores have an isle just for chevy parts. Alright that was a joke.
Anyway, aluminum threads are as simple to repair as installing a heli-coil or other type of threaded insert. Knowing how to install one properly will prevent these from ever failing in the future, and are better than new.
Crab man provided some nice links for you carb identification and wil help you out some. You should get familiar with the terms used with regards to the Holley carbs. These are simple to tune and easy to understand with a little patience, and a few spare parts. These are very driveable carbs and can be very reliable when tuned correctly.
I can assure you that you are not running a carb that is too large. We can have this discussion later, but I do not believe that it is possible to have a carb that is too large. It is possible that a venturi can be so big that the booster signal gets weak and the carb loses performance as a result, but it is not becuse the carb is too big, it is because the wrong style booster is being used in this application. enough of that. Don't want to get away from the point.
As long as this carb is under 800CFM, you will have no troubles tuning and can expect very good driveability.
You probaly have the slow air circuits all fouled up, and perhaps the throttle blades have to be opened to get this thing to idle. This eliminates the idle circuit and you are trying to run on the intermediate circuit, and this will never happen. If this carb is equiped with an idle air bleed circuit (small orifices inside of the choke horn when looking straight down) these could be dirty, and preventing air to enter while at idle. Most non-tuners see this as a low idle condition, and crank down on the throttle blade screw. This partially uncovers the transition slot in the throttle bore and the carb wants to transition into the intermediate circuit, and runs rich, very rich. This will load up, and foul plugs. Then guys try to jet accordingly and mess up the transition, and then the power falls off all together. Stumble, hesitation, backfire, yada, yada, all result simply from a poor tune on these carbs.
You ucan verify this by looking dowm through the throttle bores and verify that the thorttle blades are closed completely in the bore. If they are at a slight angle, or you can see the throttle blade slightly covering the slot, or slit located in the very front of the throttle bore (way down inside) then you know that you have a problem and needs some attention.
Start by identifying this slot. Look way down inside of the primary (front holes) venturism and notice the tiny tiny vertical slits in the body of the carb. they will be located right where the body (gold color) meets the base plate (silver color). Then notice the position of the blades. All of this while the engine is off! I woulod be willing to bet that the blades are open too far, which would simply indicate that the previous owner did not know how to tune a holley.
You can try to adjust the idle mixture screws, but even with a warm engine, if the above problem exists, you can run the small needle screws all the way in with little effect on the engine. It should shut off once you run them all the way in, but because the blades are open so far this will never happen, and the engine runs poorly as a result.
A can of carb spray can help. Spray a shot or two inside of the idlea air bleeds (small gold holes in the top of the carb, when looking down through the choke horn located at the very front of the choke horn.)
Once clean, then start the engine and the idle should be a little high. Adjust the throttle screw down (out) this will close the blades and take the blades away from the intermediate circuit and back to idle circut, then you can make adjustments to the idle mixture screws. These are the small neede screws on the side of the front metering plate. The engine should die when the mixture screws are closed. Once the adjustments are made, your engine should idle well and you should pick up a ton of throttle response.
Keep in mind that all of this should only take a few minutes, and this only applies if the engine is free of vacuum leaks, or other problems related to the engine.
Good luck, I hope I did not lose you anywhere.
The links crab provided should be easier to understand.

[stuvw2mny]

Thanks for the info on the carburetor. Because of weather (cold, snow) and lack of a shop to work in, I cannot follow up until spring, but will do so, then. When I peeled the Remanufactured sticker off I found stamped under it "60457-2" and "1978". From Holly Service Guide No. 2 I learned this is the proper location for the carburetor part number. On another sticker to the left (when facing the carb from the front of the truck) I found "2758-666666". With all this I still don't know what the carb is. It does have an electric choke (not hooked up).

From the LMC catalog, I found a listing that the FBM engine suffix code is supposedly a 1987 350 ci truck V8, which is more believable than the earlier mentioned 454 identification.

I also learned that from the CCD in the vehicle ID that the truck apparently started life with a 250ci 6-cylinder engine. It is 2WD. As I said in the first post it appears there has been some "cobbling" done on this truck. Thanks, guys.

[436'd skylark]

sounds like a nice truck actually. heres what I'd do

1. Ditch the torker. a low rise single plane intake from the 70s. thats pure trash. I'd pick up a nice performer, or even a stocker. probably better anyway. Yes, I have a vendetta against the torker

2. Ditch the holley. I'd run a nice Q-jet, with a good tune

then I'd drive it.