6" lift

046mag · 12-05-2007, 10:06 AM

I bought a used 6" lift and was wondering if any body new how big the spacers were That are used to drop the transfercase. Thanks

75K30 · 12-05-2007, 10:16 AM

What type of vehicle?
Are you working an a Jeep? Jeeps use a drop t-case when slip-yoke eliminator is not used.

046mag · 12-05-2007, 11:03 AM

no its a 76 chevy short box with 3/4 ton axels

75K30 · 12-05-2007, 11:16 AM

Never known a kit that was only 6 inches to require a drop fpr the t-case.
If you are using the high pinion Dana 60 up front, it should be high enough to accept the front d-shaft.
If you are using the 12 bolt front axle, the pinion is not quite as high, and can require a double cardan style joint for the front shaft.
Either way, the case does not have to be dropped.
Also a little difficult to do. Dropping either the NP 203, or Np 205 is not that easy with a stock crossmember assembly.

046mag · 12-05-2007, 07:05 PM

just looking to eliminate some rear drive line angle, getting some vibrations scence i installed it in the short box, The 3/4 ton axels were off my old daily driver long box, never had any vibrations in that truck. maybe im looking in the wrong place. Truck starts to vibrate at around 60mph was thinking that the rear axel may be twisting also does it in other gears around the same rpm, have brand new tires and wheels that are balenced.

72'CaminoKid · 12-05-2007, 07:25 PM

on jeeps the easiest way to drop the t-case is just with washers, but i dunno how you're cross member works. does it have a slip yoke?

75K30 · 12-05-2007, 08:47 PM

You are correct with your driveline angles being off. The shorter the wheelbase, th great er the angle, but you are looking to solve a problem that can become more rtouble than it is worth. You need to kill some driveline angle by changing your pinion angle in the rear. Shims must be added to the spring perch to correct the angle issues. Will cost just a few bucks, and will fix your vibration problems in a snap.

046mag · 12-05-2007, 10:05 PM

Was wondering about shimms, I Shimmed the front axel on a 85 i had in high school didnt know if it would be a good idea to shim the rear axel guess it wouldnt be any different. Thanks

75K30 · 12-05-2007, 10:16 PM

Do you have any blocks in the back? Many blocks are tappered, and it is common to get them in backwards. The shorter side needs to be towards the front. This will raise the pinion up and hopefully correct the problem.
If they do not, and are flat, you have acouple of choices.
1: remove the block and replace it with a correctly tappered block.
2: install the correct tappered shim to correct the angle situation
3: remove the block all together, and modify the shackle by converting the tension shackle to a compression type. This can still provied the proper amount of lift while eliminating the block(s) and will haelp to correct the angle problem.

#3 would probably be the best modification since it solves two problems.
The first being the pinion angle, and the second being axle wrap common with any spring that has a block under it. This axle wrap is hard on the u-joint, and can also contribute to vibration, and pre-mature wear.
Reasonable solution, but any of the three will do.

046mag · 12-05-2007, 10:44 PM

yes i have blocks and they are installed with the shorter end towards the front. their is no sighn that the yokes on either end of the drive line are hiting each other but i think their might be enough of an angle to cause the ujoint to start to bind when under tourq.its at the same rpm in 2nd & 3rd gear and exponentanaly in 4th while on the gas. the drive line is really short i dont remember what i had it cut to exactly but its a shade over three feet like 43" or so. if you look at it it doesnt look like its angled that bad but i know that rear end has got to twist hard with those blocks. I installed some shimms between the cross member and the frame yesterday and it reduced the vibration but would not like to put any larger ones in as the distributor cap is plenty close to the firewall now. ill probly try shimming the rear axel. I have put many lifts on my own truck and buddies trucks and never had this bad of a problem. also i know its not the tranny becouse shortly after putting the lift on i swapped trannies due to the shifter faling out of third gear.

12-05-2007, 10:06 AM	#1
046mag Full Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: La Grande, Oregon Posts: 18	6" lift I bought a used 6" lift and was wondering if any body new how big the spacers were That are used to drop the transfercase. Thanks

12-05-2007, 07:25 PM	#6
72'CaminoKid Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 2,261	on jeeps the easiest way to drop the t-case is just with washers, but i dunno how you're cross member works. does it have a slip yoke? __________________ 99 suburban xlt 96 silverado 91 wrangler (my baby ) 08 Honday shadow 750 (my mistress)

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12-05-2007, 10:16 AM	#2
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,518	What type of vehicle? Are you working an a Jeep? Jeeps use a drop t-case when slip-yoke eliminator is not used.

12-05-2007, 11:03 AM	#3
046mag Full Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: La Grande, Oregon Posts: 18	no its a 76 chevy short box with 3/4 ton axels

12-05-2007, 11:16 AM	#4
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,518	Never known a kit that was only 6 inches to require a drop fpr the t-case. If you are using the high pinion Dana 60 up front, it should be high enough to accept the front d-shaft. If you are using the 12 bolt front axle, the pinion is not quite as high, and can require a double cardan style joint for the front shaft. Either way, the case does not have to be dropped. Also a little difficult to do. Dropping either the NP 203, or Np 205 is not that easy with a stock crossmember assembly.

12-05-2007, 07:05 PM	#5
046mag Full Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: La Grande, Oregon Posts: 18	just looking to eliminate some rear drive line angle, getting some vibrations scence i installed it in the short box, The 3/4 ton axels were off my old daily driver long box, never had any vibrations in that truck. maybe im looking in the wrong place. Truck starts to vibrate at around 60mph was thinking that the rear axel may be twisting also does it in other gears around the same rpm, have brand new tires and wheels that are balenced.

12-05-2007, 08:47 PM	#7
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,518	You are correct with your driveline angles being off. The shorter the wheelbase, th great er the angle, but you are looking to solve a problem that can become more rtouble than it is worth. You need to kill some driveline angle by changing your pinion angle in the rear. Shims must be added to the spring perch to correct the angle issues. Will cost just a few bucks, and will fix your vibration problems in a snap.

12-05-2007, 10:05 PM	#8
046mag Full Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: La Grande, Oregon Posts: 18	Was wondering about shimms, I Shimmed the front axel on a 85 i had in high school didnt know if it would be a good idea to shim the rear axel guess it wouldnt be any different. Thanks

12-05-2007, 10:16 PM	#9
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,518	Do you have any blocks in the back? Many blocks are tappered, and it is common to get them in backwards. The shorter side needs to be towards the front. This will raise the pinion up and hopefully correct the problem. If they do not, and are flat, you have acouple of choices. 1: remove the block and replace it with a correctly tappered block. 2: install the correct tappered shim to correct the angle situation 3: remove the block all together, and modify the shackle by converting the tension shackle to a compression type. This can still provied the proper amount of lift while eliminating the block(s) and will haelp to correct the angle problem. #3 would probably be the best modification since it solves two problems. The first being the pinion angle, and the second being axle wrap common with any spring that has a block under it. This axle wrap is hard on the u-joint, and can also contribute to vibration, and pre-mature wear. Reasonable solution, but any of the three will do.

12-05-2007, 10:44 PM	#10
046mag Full Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: La Grande, Oregon Posts: 18	yes i have blocks and they are installed with the shorter end towards the front. their is no sighn that the yokes on either end of the drive line are hiting each other but i think their might be enough of an angle to cause the ujoint to start to bind when under tourq.its at the same rpm in 2nd & 3rd gear and exponentanaly in 4th while on the gas. the drive line is really short i dont remember what i had it cut to exactly but its a shade over three feet like 43" or so. if you look at it it doesnt look like its angled that bad but i know that rear end has got to twist hard with those blocks. I installed some shimms between the cross member and the frame yesterday and it reduced the vibration but would not like to put any larger ones in as the distributor cap is plenty close to the firewall now. ill probly try shimming the rear axel. I have put many lifts on my own truck and buddies trucks and never had this bad of a problem. also i know its not the tranny becouse shortly after putting the lift on i swapped trannies due to the shifter faling out of third gear.