86 k-10 electrical HELP

[maddog]

i have a 86 chevy K10. full size 4X4. it has i think a 1978? 350ci. i dont know the year for sure, never tryed to match up the vin. anyway the problem that im having is that sometimes the engine won't turn over at all. when a person turns the key to just behind start, everything turns on: dash lights, radio...etc. but when you turn the key to start the starter will click once and then i will loose all power untill i turn the key off and turn it on again. i think that a positive wire is grounding somewhere on the frame? but, i have checked/replaced all positive wiring in the engine compartment that i could find. i am wondering if anybody can help me with this? bad starter solenoid maybe? ... Is it possible that there is a short in my steering column, its aftermarket cuz i replaced the original one?
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[crabtruck]

Grounding a positive to the frame should blow a fuse, which you don't mention, so I think not that. Fault may be at key itself. Bad switch or loose connection.

[88fivespd]

I would hook up a remote starter switch and see what it does then. That would isolate the problem quite a bit.

[maddog]

i will give it a shot tomorrow and post results. thanks guys

[stumpuller454]

so an experience i had in my 80 gmc was similar-ish, if i cranked the key extra hard sometimes it would start but regular turn key force is too weak, turned out the key cylinder pulls a chincey die cast loop rod (real name unkown) to actuate the ignition switch, it was cracked and would flex just enough to not start sometimes, so its easy to check, unscrew bottom cover of column and its in the column, i can recall having to remove steering wheel and pulling the pivot pins to replace it, which kinda sucked but that fixed her, is a possibilty anyways!

[maddog]

Originally Posted by stumpuller454

so an experience i had in my 80 gmc was similar-ish, if i cranked the key extra hard sometimes it would start but regular turn key force is too weak, turned out the key cylinder pulls a chincey die cast loop rod (real name unkown) to actuate the ignition switch, it was cracked and would flex just enough to not start sometimes, so its easy to check, unscrew bottom cover of column and its in the column, i can recall having to remove steering wheel and pulling the pivot pins to replace it, which kinda sucked but that fixed her, is a possibilty anyways!

i think the switch is actuating because my voltage dips to nothing while the key is turned all the way, and when i release the key the voltage goes back to norm... and i should mention that when the key is turned all the way there is a quiet but high pitched whining sound, (not fuel pump.) the sound is somewhere in the engine compartment but i havent located it yet

[stumpuller454]

hmm, yeah it was just something that happened to me, maybe you can disconnect coil and use a ampmeter on starter wire to see if its drawing lotsa amps, 150 amps is normal, cranking, or maybe there is corrosion in the wire to starter, or...

[maddog]

have any ideas on the whining?

[crabtruck]

Originally Posted by maddog

i think the switch is actuating because my voltage dips to nothing while the key is turned all the way, and when i release the key the voltage goes back to norm... and i should mention that when the key is turned all the way there is a quiet but high pitched whining sound, ... the sound is somewhere in the engine compartment....

That would have been real helpful in the first post
My thought is now strictly starter related.

[maddog]

well i just found out that when i hold the key at start for an extended period of time the negative battery cable the grounds on the block will heat up preety **** fast, so i know for sure now that the prob is a positive wire someshere grounding somwhere, that makes me pretty happy cuz i didnt wanna have to throw in another steering column in the cold, easy job but anything sucks in the cold