SAS on a S-10 Blazer

greasemonkey · 03-26-2008, 09:47 AM

Im wondering if a Dana 30 solid axle out of a jeep wrangler will fit under the front of my 1992 S-10 Blazer. The pumpkin is under the drivers side on the jeep. I know i will have to weld up some spring hangers, but other than that would it be a bolt in deal, or am I getting in over my head?

75K30 · 03-26-2008, 10:22 AM

When you use the term "bolt in deal", you are underestimating the job at hand. The dana 30 front axle does have the driver side drop like you need, but this is where it stops.
You will need to determine which style suspension you are going to use, and which type of link system you intend to build. Know that designing a multi link system is a very difficult task, and not for the first timer.
Axle location, pinion angles during suspension cycles, roll centers, caster changes, are all factors when designing a suspension. Get on or more wrong, and the vehicle will not drive on the highway.
This is what you are trying to do, and let me tell you, this is quite a bit of work. Great modification, but man its quite time consuming.

junior3382 · 03-26-2008, 10:50 AM

75K30, is that a project you worked on, or a random pic from the net? I agree, this is very leabor instnesive, and not for someone with limited knowledge, but boy does that look pi$$ed off, don't ya think! LOL. You know 75, it is a royal shame you and I do not live closer to eachother, I would love to spend a week shadowing you in a garage and perhaps building a project like this....LOL.

greasemonkey · 03-26-2008, 11:16 AM

I was planning on using leaf springs like the stock wrangler setup. when I said bolt in deal, I mean will I need a custom front driveshaft, or different transfer case.

75K30 · 03-26-2008, 11:41 AM

Junior:
I hit you back in a PM.

greasemonkey:

There will be nothing that will be a bolt on. If you use leaf springs, you will have to make some spring hangers to attach the springs to the frame. This is the easiest suspension design, but has some critical points as well. You will want to make sure you have a rear swing shackle, not a front swing like a Jeep. So you will have a fixed front hanger and a pivot at the rear. The frames are different widths so you will also have to fabricate some spring pads to attach the axle to the springs. Caster angle is very, very important here. Too much, or too little and the steering will be like the worst shopping cart you have ever pushed, or the opposite, the steering will be so slow, that the turning radius will be terrible, and the truck will fell slow to respond on the highway. This will aslo affect the front driveshaft pinion angle.
You will have to modify the exhaust, and yo will have to make modifications to the front driveshaft. You will have to be able to make up your own steering, since this is not a factory application everything will be custom. The relationship between the box, and the pass side knuckle is not a factory dimension, so you will have to fab something up.
You existing t-case will work, since it does not even know what is at the other end of the driveshaft. That will be the easy part.
Getting an axle located up front is an interesting deal.
If you use a Jeep axle, you will also have to eliminate the factory axle disconnect and add some locking hubs, or try to use the factory disconnect from the S-series truck, and try to make it operate the Jeep disconnect. This will prove to be an unreliable set-up, and eliminating this will be the best thing to do.
I like the idea od the SAS, and appreciate what you want to do. I personally feel that 4wd vehicles should all have solid front axles, and I modify mine this way, but I do want you to understand how much is involved.
This is a not turn back modification, meaning that once you start cutting the a-arms off, you will not be going back.

greasemonkey · 03-26-2008, 03:38 PM

Thanks for the info, Im thinking this will be an ongoing project for the summer. I plan on putting a standard s-10 pickup cab on the Blazer frame and making a custom tube bed for the rear. Maybe even some 3/4 ton axles further down the line.

junior3382 · 03-26-2008, 03:47 PM

Definitely sounds like it will be quite a rig! Be sure to take project pics and post back.

greasemonkey · 03-26-2008, 04:06 PM

I will. I dont want to rush the blazer, I want it to be as strong and dependable as possible. Its going to be a hard core trail rig hopefully. Im not sure if my 4.3 is going to handle the strain Im going to put on it. my ranger is going to be my daily driver once I fix the tranny and replace the quarter window.

junior3382 · 03-26-2008, 05:00 PM

Do not underestimate the 4.3l. With the right tuning and correct gearing, that engine will prove to you that it is the little engine that could....

87c10slammer · 03-27-2008, 11:36 AM

i agrea abou the engine that could. i just bought a 2000 jimmy with the 4.3. who ever owned this truck before hand definitly didnt take care of it. i just bearly got it home. i knew from the dealership i was replacing the motor. i bought the truck for 1900 with a brandnew motor in the back of the truck so i had an idea what i was getting myself into. but anyway i got it home and just out of curiousity pulled the oil plug. i have never seen such a nasty sight. the oil didnt come out it just sat there at the end of the hole not moving an inch. the provious owner drove the truck 103,487 miles without ever doing a thing to it. it is still inthe shop after 3 weeks tryin to come back to life. i should have it back by monday but its costin me alot
\

03-26-2008, 09:47 AM	#1
greasemonkey Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Somewhere, PA Posts: 585	SAS on a S-10 Blazer Im wondering if a Dana 30 solid axle out of a jeep wrangler will fit under the front of my 1992 S-10 Blazer. The pumpkin is under the drivers side on the jeep. I know i will have to weld up some spring hangers, but other than that would it be a bolt in deal, or am I getting in over my head? Last edited by greasemonkey; 03-26-2008 at 11:14 AM.

03-26-2008, 10:50 AM	#3
junior3382 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: I live in south central PA, but grew up in Maine Posts: 2,937	75K30, is that a project you worked on, or a random pic from the net? I agree, this is very leabor instnesive, and not for someone with limited knowledge, but boy does that look pi$$ed off, don't ya think! LOL. You know 75, it is a royal shame you and I do not live closer to eachother, I would love to spend a week shadowing you in a garage and perhaps building a project like this....LOL. __________________ Lets get some mud on the tires...eh?!?!? OWN: 1998 Chevy Blazer ls 4x4 4.3l Vortec V6 1998 Mazda B3000 SE 4WD 3.0L V6 3" lift 31x10.50 Liberator A/T's

03-26-2008, 11:16 AM	#4
greasemonkey Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Somewhere, PA Posts: 585	I was planning on using leaf springs like the stock wrangler setup. when I said bolt in deal, I mean will I need a custom front driveshaft, or different transfer case. __________________ Tractors are like watermelon, you keep the red and throw away the green."

03-26-2008, 03:38 PM	#6
greasemonkey Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Somewhere, PA Posts: 585	Thanks for the info, Im thinking this will be an ongoing project for the summer. I plan on putting a standard s-10 pickup cab on the Blazer frame and making a custom tube bed for the rear. Maybe even some 3/4 ton axles further down the line. __________________ Tractors are like watermelon, you keep the red and throw away the green."

03-26-2008, 03:47 PM	#7
junior3382 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: I live in south central PA, but grew up in Maine Posts: 2,937	Definitely sounds like it will be quite a rig! Be sure to take project pics and post back. __________________ Lets get some mud on the tires...eh?!?!? OWN: 1998 Chevy Blazer ls 4x4 4.3l Vortec V6 1998 Mazda B3000 SE 4WD 3.0L V6 3" lift 31x10.50 Liberator A/T's

03-26-2008, 10:22 AM	#2
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,518	When you use the term "bolt in deal", you are underestimating the job at hand. The dana 30 front axle does have the driver side drop like you need, but this is where it stops. You will need to determine which style suspension you are going to use, and which type of link system you intend to build. Know that designing a multi link system is a very difficult task, and not for the first timer. Axle location, pinion angles during suspension cycles, roll centers, caster changes, are all factors when designing a suspension. Get on or more wrong, and the vehicle will not drive on the highway. This is what you are trying to do, and let me tell you, this is quite a bit of work. Great modification, but man its quite time consuming.

03-26-2008, 11:41 AM	#5
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,518	Junior: I hit you back in a PM. greasemonkey: There will be nothing that will be a bolt on. If you use leaf springs, you will have to make some spring hangers to attach the springs to the frame. This is the easiest suspension design, but has some critical points as well. You will want to make sure you have a rear swing shackle, not a front swing like a Jeep. So you will have a fixed front hanger and a pivot at the rear. The frames are different widths so you will also have to fabricate some spring pads to attach the axle to the springs. Caster angle is very, very important here. Too much, or too little and the steering will be like the worst shopping cart you have ever pushed, or the opposite, the steering will be so slow, that the turning radius will be terrible, and the truck will fell slow to respond on the highway. This will aslo affect the front driveshaft pinion angle. You will have to modify the exhaust, and yo will have to make modifications to the front driveshaft. You will have to be able to make up your own steering, since this is not a factory application everything will be custom. The relationship between the box, and the pass side knuckle is not a factory dimension, so you will have to fab something up. You existing t-case will work, since it does not even know what is at the other end of the driveshaft. That will be the easy part. Getting an axle located up front is an interesting deal. If you use a Jeep axle, you will also have to eliminate the factory axle disconnect and add some locking hubs, or try to use the factory disconnect from the S-series truck, and try to make it operate the Jeep disconnect. This will prove to be an unreliable set-up, and eliminating this will be the best thing to do. I like the idea od the SAS, and appreciate what you want to do. I personally feel that 4wd vehicles should all have solid front axles, and I modify mine this way, but I do want you to understand how much is involved. This is a not turn back modification, meaning that once you start cutting the a-arms off, you will not be going back.

03-26-2008, 04:06 PM	#8
greasemonkey Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Somewhere, PA Posts: 585	I will. I dont want to rush the blazer, I want it to be as strong and dependable as possible. Its going to be a hard core trail rig hopefully. Im not sure if my 4.3 is going to handle the strain Im going to put on it. my ranger is going to be my daily driver once I fix the tranny and replace the quarter window. __________________ Tractors are like watermelon, you keep the red and throw away the green."

03-26-2008, 05:00 PM	#9
junior3382 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: I live in south central PA, but grew up in Maine Posts: 2,937	Do not underestimate the 4.3l. With the right tuning and correct gearing, that engine will prove to you that it is the little engine that could.... __________________ Lets get some mud on the tires...eh?!?!? OWN: 1998 Chevy Blazer ls 4x4 4.3l Vortec V6 1998 Mazda B3000 SE 4WD 3.0L V6 3" lift 31x10.50 Liberator A/T's

03-27-2008, 11:36 AM	#10
87c10slammer Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: levittown pa Posts: 1,964	i agrea abou the engine that could. i just bought a 2000 jimmy with the 4.3. who ever owned this truck before hand definitly didnt take care of it. i just bearly got it home. i knew from the dealership i was replacing the motor. i bought the truck for 1900 with a brandnew motor in the back of the truck so i had an idea what i was getting myself into. but anyway i got it home and just out of curiousity pulled the oil plug. i have never seen such a nasty sight. the oil didnt come out it just sat there at the end of the hole not moving an inch. the provious owner drove the truck 103,487 miles without ever doing a thing to it. it is still inthe shop after 3 weeks tryin to come back to life. i should have it back by monday but its costin me alot \

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
89 blazer	luckyone	Chevy Truck Forum	3	07-28-2007 07:05 PM
k5 blazer	chevygirl91	Chevy Truck Forum	1	07-26-2007 09:43 PM
94 Blazer 4.3	Hayden	Chevy Truck Forum	5	11-14-2006 07:43 PM
4x4 s-10 blazer	mudseeker	Truck Classifieds	0	08-27-2006 08:58 PM
A/C help - 98 Blazer 4.3L	corey	Chevy Truck Forum	4	08-23-2006 11:05 AM