Air Condition Problem - Page 2

leolkfrm · 07-23-2008, 06:16 AM

could be a high pressure switch on the dryer acting up...not give proper voltage to the clutch..or the clutch is getting weak which is replaceable with the proper puller

Johnboy · 07-23-2008, 04:58 PM

Could the High Pressure Switch cause the clutch problem? When the clutch kicks off I still have power to the compressor on hot and ground wire, when compressor is off you are not suppose to have power to the clutch i thought? I'll check my connection on the pressure switch, maybe the plug has a problem with it.

leolkfrm · 07-23-2008, 05:56 PM

Yes you are correct. I've seen where the connection at the switch becomes intermitent. leave the ignition on and play with the wires if its acting up you will hear the clutch activating and deactivating. Did you notice any rust etc at the clutch when it engages? As I mentioned you can replacew the clutchand not mess with the gas side of the system.

Johnboy · 07-24-2008, 07:53 PM

Well I wiggled the wires on the pressure switch and it did nothing, so I took a paper clip and stuck it in both female prongs of the pressure switch plug and the compressor would not kick in, and it should have I think. My plug has a little fraded place on it but I don't think it is bad enough to cause the problem, I will order a new one and change it out and see if that fixes it. Thanks again for your help. I will post again when I find something wrong.

leolkfrm · 07-26-2008, 05:03 PM

when you bypass the switch and you tap on the clutch, if it engages I'd be looking at replacing the clutch assembly

rdhack · 07-26-2008, 08:25 PM

How does it do when you are just setting idling? I would put gauges on the system and watch it. Gauges should read equal which system is off. When on low should drip to around 30-50 psi depending upon several conditions while high should go up to around 170-200psi depending upons the same conditions. All units work generally the same but there are minute differences. It does sound like the fan clutch is not dissapating enough heat from the condenser at slow speeds or idle, then when the rpms are increased it helps to dissipate the heat from your condenser which in turns cools the freon which is sent back to your evaporator for cooling the inside of your vehicle. so for being so wordy, but I'm a school teacher......

rdhack · 07-26-2008, 08:27 PM

And I am ashamed of all the mispellings as well...

rdhack · 07-28-2008, 06:20 AM

Also check your condenser for bugs & weeds and such...it could be stopped up. It.s directly in front of your radiator.

Johnboy · 08-11-2008, 08:30 AM

Pulled Vacuum on system, changed orfice, replaced dryer, checked clutch, (was okay), and put in new Freon, still same problem. Also changed plug on dryer that was frayed a little, I give up.

gmctrucks · 08-11-2008, 08:41 AM

John I found one from a S-10 there the same thing Ebay, people were biding like crazy for the used one's for our trucks but I found out that the S-10 fits and I paid barley nothing. Hope this helps! GMC

07-26-2008, 08:25 PM	#16
rdhack Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: kentucky Posts: 100	How does it do when you are just setting idling? I would put gauges on the system and watch it. Gauges should read equal which system is off. When on low should drip to around 30-50 psi depending upon several conditions while high should go up to around 170-200psi depending upons the same conditions. All units work generally the same but there are minute differences. It does sound like the fan clutch is not dissapating enough heat from the condenser at slow speeds or idle, then when the rpms are increased it helps to dissipate the heat from your condenser which in turns cools the freon which is sent back to your evaporator for cooling the inside of your vehicle. so for being so wordy, but I'm a school teacher...... __________________ MY first truck was a FORD.......I've owned Chevy's ever since. 1995 K2500 4x4 5.7L Cheyenne 1991 T-10 Blazer 4.3L Tahoe Package 1998 Oldsmobile Bravada 4.3L Vortec Smart Drive

07-26-2008, 08:27 PM	#17
rdhack Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: kentucky Posts: 100	And I am ashamed of all the mispellings as well... __________________ MY first truck was a FORD.......I've owned Chevy's ever since. 1995 K2500 4x4 5.7L Cheyenne 1991 T-10 Blazer 4.3L Tahoe Package 1998 Oldsmobile Bravada 4.3L Vortec Smart Drive

07-28-2008, 06:20 AM	#18
rdhack Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: kentucky Posts: 100	Also check your condenser for bugs & weeds and such...it could be stopped up. It.s directly in front of your radiator. __________________ MY first truck was a FORD.......I've owned Chevy's ever since. 1995 K2500 4x4 5.7L Cheyenne 1991 T-10 Blazer 4.3L Tahoe Package 1998 Oldsmobile Bravada 4.3L Vortec Smart Drive

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07-23-2008, 06:16 AM	#11
leolkfrm Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: N.Y. Posts: 1,074	could be a high pressure switch on the dryer acting up...not give proper voltage to the clutch..or the clutch is getting weak which is replaceable with the proper puller

07-23-2008, 04:58 PM	#12
Johnboy Full Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Tennessee Posts: 19	Could the High Pressure Switch cause the clutch problem? When the clutch kicks off I still have power to the compressor on hot and ground wire, when compressor is off you are not suppose to have power to the clutch i thought? I'll check my connection on the pressure switch, maybe the plug has a problem with it.

07-23-2008, 05:56 PM	#13
leolkfrm Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: N.Y. Posts: 1,074	Yes you are correct. I've seen where the connection at the switch becomes intermitent. leave the ignition on and play with the wires if its acting up you will hear the clutch activating and deactivating. Did you notice any rust etc at the clutch when it engages? As I mentioned you can replacew the clutchand not mess with the gas side of the system.

07-24-2008, 07:53 PM	#14
Johnboy Full Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Tennessee Posts: 19	Well I wiggled the wires on the pressure switch and it did nothing, so I took a paper clip and stuck it in both female prongs of the pressure switch plug and the compressor would not kick in, and it should have I think. My plug has a little fraded place on it but I don't think it is bad enough to cause the problem, I will order a new one and change it out and see if that fixes it. Thanks again for your help. I will post again when I find something wrong.

07-26-2008, 05:03 PM	#15
leolkfrm Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: N.Y. Posts: 1,074	when you bypass the switch and you tap on the clutch, if it engages I'd be looking at replacing the clutch assembly

08-11-2008, 08:30 AM	#19
Johnboy Full Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Tennessee Posts: 19	Pulled Vacuum on system, changed orfice, replaced dryer, checked clutch, (was okay), and put in new Freon, still same problem. Also changed plug on dryer that was frayed a little, I give up.

08-11-2008, 08:41 AM	#20
gmctrucks Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Houston,Texas Posts: 1,722	John I found one from a S-10 there the same thing Ebay, people were biding like crazy for the used one's for our trucks but I found out that the S-10 fits and I paid barley nothing. Hope this helps! GMC