Brake Light Stays On - 98 Silverado

Hamneggs · 07-31-2008, 03:37 PM

1998 C1500 Silverado 5.7L Vortec

I had a tiny brake line leak and reservoir went empty over time.
Pedal went to floor, and dash brake light was activated.

Fixed leak, refilled reservoir, brakes working fine, but brake light on dash is still on.

What is procedure to get the durned thing to shut off?

Hamneggs · 07-31-2008, 04:05 PM

Just found this in another thread:

"It may be that the pressure diferential switch needs reset. Try opening a rear bleed screw and get a helper to gently press the pedal. If the light goes out tighten screw and let pedal up. If light does not go out repeat with a front bleed screw. It is a matter of getting the valve reset to the central position. It may have been pushed to one side or the other when you flushed the system."

Sounds like this applies to my issue.

mudseeker · 07-31-2008, 04:15 PM

yup, that would be your problem, or you have a bad low fluid sensor.

you may want to take it to a shop with a scan tool to be sure that is the problem.

rdhack · 07-31-2008, 06:34 PM

Just a thought....pull up on your emergency brake pedal...sometimes they do not release all the way.

Hamneggs · 07-31-2008, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdhack

Just a thought....pull up on your emergency brake pedal...sometimes they do not release all the way.

Thanks...I tried that. Pretty sure it's that valve thingy, cuz it happened just when my brake pedal bottomed out. I just didn't know how to get it back right again.

I'm wondering though....if that metering valve is hyper-extended, does that mean I've only been getting brake action on one set of wheels?

Case 7230 · 08-01-2008, 10:36 AM

athe pressure diff. valve should be just below the master cylinder with a single wire connection. You may be able to reset it by pushing the little rubber button in, if not follow the proceedure you highlighted. Also if you pull the wire off and the light goes out you know it is the valve needs to be reset to center. And this valve does not alter your brakes at all.

Hamneggs · 08-01-2008, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Case 7230

athe pressure diff. valve should be just below the master cylinder with a single wire connection. You may be able to reset it by pushing the little rubber button in, if not follow the proceedure you highlighted. Also if you pull the wire off and the light goes out you know it is the valve needs to be reset to center. And this valve does not alter your brakes at all.

Useful info, Case. Thanks.

I'll take a look at it this weekend.

leolkfrm · 08-01-2008, 02:00 PM

Just another thought, The truck is 10yrs old, When you did the master, did you bleed all the brakes till there was fresh fluid flowing? or basically flushed the system?
over time the fluid starts to turn brown and thicken, which creates other problems. As I said just another thought

Hamneggs · 08-02-2008, 01:32 PM

Pulled wire connector, light went off.
Pressed that button, a lil fluid came out. It was a rubber cap over a needle valve thingy. No change with light.

I'll just go through the bleed procedure described above.

mudseeker · 08-02-2008, 04:01 PM

wish i would have thought of this before. but you may need to take the truck to a shop and have them purge the abs system with a scan tool. for some reason i thought you said it was an 88, not 98. since you ran the master out of fluid, you probably have air in the abs system and the easiest way to get it out is with a scan tool. once your truck info is entered into the tool, it takes less than a minute to purge the system.

you can also do it manually, but i never bothered to learn it since it takes more time and time is money when it comes to fixing things.

07-31-2008, 03:37 PM	#1
Hamneggs Full Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Columbus, IN Posts: 11	Brake Light Stays On - 98 Silverado 1998 C1500 Silverado 5.7L Vortec I had a tiny brake line leak and reservoir went empty over time. Pedal went to floor, and dash brake light was activated. Fixed leak, refilled reservoir, brakes working fine, but brake light on dash is still on. What is procedure to get the durned thing to shut off?

07-31-2008, 04:15 PM	#3
mudseeker mod-o-tator Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: michigan Posts: 4,508	yup, that would be your problem, or you have a bad low fluid sensor. you may want to take it to a shop with a scan tool to be sure that is the problem. __________________ member map add yourself alldatadiy why is it, when i push one for english, i still can't understand the person on the other end?

07-31-2008, 06:34 PM	#4
rdhack Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: kentucky Posts: 119	Just a thought....pull up on your emergency brake pedal...sometimes they do not release all the way. __________________ MY first truck was a FORD.......I've owned Chevy's ever since. 1995 K2500 4x4 5.7L Cheyenne 1991 T-10 Blazer 4.3L Tahoe Package 1998 Oldsmobile Bravada 4.3L Vortec Smart Drive

08-01-2008, 10:36 AM	#6
Case 7230 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 253	athe pressure diff. valve should be just below the master cylinder with a single wire connection. You may be able to reset it by pushing the little rubber button in, if not follow the proceedure you highlighted. Also if you pull the wire off and the light goes out you know it is the valve needs to be reset to center. And this valve does not alter your brakes at all. Last edited by Case 7230; 08-01-2008 at 10:37 AM. Reason: More information.

08-02-2008, 01:32 PM	#9
Hamneggs Full Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Columbus, IN Posts: 11	Pulled wire connector, light went off. Pressed that button, a lil fluid came out. It was a rubber cap over a needle valve thingy. No change with light. I'll just go through the bleed procedure described above. __________________ 1998 Chevy C1500 Silverado 1970 Mercury Cougar XR7 (Project)

07-31-2008, 04:05 PM	#2
Hamneggs Full Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Columbus, IN Posts: 11	Just found this in another thread: "It may be that the pressure diferential switch needs reset. Try opening a rear bleed screw and get a helper to gently press the pedal. If the light goes out tighten screw and let pedal up. If light does not go out repeat with a front bleed screw. It is a matter of getting the valve reset to the central position. It may have been pushed to one side or the other when you flushed the system." Sounds like this applies to my issue.

08-01-2008, 02:00 PM	#8
leolkfrm Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: N.Y. Posts: 1,456	Just another thought, The truck is 10yrs old, When you did the master, did you bleed all the brakes till there was fresh fluid flowing? or basically flushed the system? over time the fluid starts to turn brown and thicken, which creates other problems. As I said just another thought

08-02-2008, 04:01 PM	#10
mudseeker mod-o-tator Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: michigan Posts: 4,508	wish i would have thought of this before. but you may need to take the truck to a shop and have them purge the abs system with a scan tool. for some reason i thought you said it was an 88, not 98. since you ran the master out of fluid, you probably have air in the abs system and the easiest way to get it out is with a scan tool. once your truck info is entered into the tool, it takes less than a minute to purge the system. you can also do it manually, but i never bothered to learn it since it takes more time and time is money when it comes to fixing things. __________________ member map add yourself alldatadiy why is it, when i push one for english, i still can't understand the person on the other end?

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