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Old 08-05-2008, 02:22 AM   #1
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U-joints

I got the shakes in my '95 Tahoe, and gave the driveshaft a nudge to see if it was the u-joints. Found a little play in the rear one, so.. it's that time I guess.
My question is simply: What should I look for in a replacement joint? I have heard the factory joints are no good due to.. nylon seals? Can't remember.. Anybody got a brand they swear by?

Also while I'm on the subject.. I'm toying with the idea of replacing it myself, although I don't have anything to press them in and out with. I'm wondering how hard they really are to press.. Easy like a brake piston? Or more like trying to benchpress my truck? *chuckle*

Any help would be peachy
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:50 AM   #2
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More like bench pressing your truck. But not too bad if you have a vice or hire a press. As for the joints I would go with Spicer, if it was me. Especially if you can get a joint with a grease fitting. Good luck.
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Old 08-05-2008, 06:26 AM   #3
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I think a second look might be a good idea, you are saying shakes! the u-joint is probably on its way out, but would need to be gone for shakes, Do you have a better description of when it shakes and where it feels like its comming from front or rear
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Old 08-05-2008, 07:29 AM   #4
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I say that OEM U-joints last a long time I bet you have a lot of miles on them just like your stock water pump they last forever.
Good luck! GMC
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Old 08-05-2008, 10:20 AM   #5
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I'm assuming the originals are plastic injected? Use a torch to heat up the area surrounding the U-joint and the plastic injection will squirt out the holes. Once most of it is out you can pound out the old u-joints with a hammer (or use a vice or clamp or whatever).

I've used a few different brands. Some have grease fittings so you can grease the u-joints and some don't. Other than that I really couldn't tell the difference between the different brands.
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Old 08-05-2008, 06:52 PM   #6
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NON greasable SPICER all the way!!
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Old 08-06-2008, 10:30 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMC1993Sierra View Post
I'm assuming the originals are plastic injected? Use a torch to heat up the area surrounding the U-joint and the plastic injection will squirt out the holes. Once most of it is out you can pound out the old u-joints with a hammer (or use a vice or clamp or whatever).
I agree with this ^
i would have to say from experience that the stock are pretty good last along time, but if you get after market look for ones you dont have to grease


Good Luck!
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Old 08-22-2008, 06:10 PM   #8
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Many thanks for the advice guys. Since I'm not fond of (nor capable of) bench pressing vehicles I'll probably have it done at the local offroad shop.

The "shakes" I referred to: Been doing it for quite a while, but I only drive the thing maybe 2 miles per month. I have a company truck to commute in It is a severe vibration from the rear, during acceleration only.

Feels good to be back after a long absence.
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Old 08-25-2008, 06:16 PM   #9
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i buy the cheapie ones at advance or autozone (the ones with grease fittings). The ones without grease fittings are stronger but I am not hard on the machinery anyway. I replaced mine when I bought my 1987 truck used in 1999. They have been fine since.
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Old 08-25-2008, 06:31 PM   #10
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I vote for Spicer, I have tried many and none seem to compare to Spicer. The NAPA brute strength arent bad either. Be sure to grease your slip yoke when you pull it, they are bad about sticking and feeling like you got hit in the rear when you take off.
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