Power loss under load - fan clutch? Alternator?

[leolkfrm]

I think you need to go to a good tranny shop befor you toast it, it sounds like a fluid problem, pump torque converter filter, stuck valve. but it does not sound like engine,
as long as the engine is not lugging i'd be looking at tranny

[98k1500]

Originally Posted by leolkfrm

I think you need to go to a good tranny shop befor you toast it, it sounds like a fluid problem, pump torque converter filter, stuck valve. but it does not sound like engine,
as long as the engine is not lugging i'd be looking at tranny

I'd have to agree, just because a shop says that the fluid is ok and no contaminants doesnt mean that there is nothing wrong. even something very small could be causing your problems. Has the truck always been used hard, I dont mean abused. But after a life of hard work, stuff wears out. I dont have any experience with trannys, but I have learned that some of the smallest parts can cause some of the biggest problems

[Kiasis]

Okay, let the ******* insults begin. Here's the entire story:

I met my wife in 2002. She bought the truck brand new in 1999 and had the dealer install the towing package (it was supposed to come from the factory pre-wired, but didn't so the dealership in Chico, CA did it). Dealership screwed the wiring harness so that the colors matched from brake controller into chassis wiring harness, but then they wired the bumper connector ***-backwards. Last week, the brake controller went out (so I thought) so I bought another and wired it up. Wiring diagram (both old and new controller) said blue is brakes/black is power and since the old controller was wired to the blue in the wiring harness, I wired the new controller into the blue in the wiring harness. Problem is, the blue wire in the wiring harness wasn't connected to the breaks but to the battery in the chassis harness. Since the wiring was fully taped going into the male connector of the rear bumper I couldn't see that it went to the wrong terminal. Since the blue wire was connected to the blue wire from the controller back, I never suspected a problem (especially since it had been dealer-wired). By the time I met the truck in 2002, the brakes on the horse trailer and flatbed had been partially on 100% of the time for 3-yrs, so my baseline knowledge was screwed by the already very worn out brakes (and engine as it turned out). When we drove the trailer, we just turned up the controller enough to engage the brakes at the necessary level upon pedal application, never realizing they were still grabbing slightly whether we touched the pedal or not.

Soooo, in 2004 we blew the head ($4,500). In 2006, we overheated and blew the engine climbing the Sierra Nevadas in June with three 1,500 lb horses ($6,000). We've had several brake lock-ups that've cost us numerous tires and a shredded aluminum wheel well. We've gone through power steering pumps, hydro-brake boosters, and God knows what other parts because we've been putting extra strain on the engine every time we hooked up the horse trailer.

I didn't notice a pulling-power difference until after we had the trailer brakes redone last year, and none of the 3-4 shops who have seen it since thought it could be a trailer brake issue. No one ever checked the wiring harness, just the engine/exhaust/etc.

Last weekend, replacing a brake controller that I now realize worked fine, I finally got out my multi-meter and checked continuity at every pole on the bumper wiring harness. I got constant power to the brakes whether they were applied or not. Swapped the black and blue wires out of the controller (power and brakes, respectively so they are now black - brakes, blue - power) and the wires at the controller now match the wires at the bumper connector and match the wires heading into the trailer. Amazing how much better the truck pulls now that the brakes only engage when the brake pedal is pushed.

So, I'm a total moron for assuming a dealer wiring job was done accurately and not being able to 'think-through' the electrical problem causing us so many headaches and close to $20,000 in repairs over the last 4-5 years.

My wife wants to sue the dealership, but I rather doubt we have anything we could prove in court, even if some statue of limitation hasn't already expired.

Anyway, this confession is just so someone else can learn from my experience, correct a mystery problem - and never admit it to anyone

[mrjohnwayne]

wow. That sucks to hear all that trouble from a simple wiring error. Thanks for posting it though. You never know who out there may have the same problem.

[leolkfrm]

Wow so how does it pull now? bet the mpg goes up too. Guess that really shows GM has lots of power

[bradrhale]

talk about the worst kind of luck. hate to hear that but glad that you have things working your way a little better now. maybe you will have alot better luck with the truck now.

[Kiasis]

Hauls like a 454 should now. Still chuckling (sorta) over what an idiot I was to not think to check something like the wiring sooner. Thanks for not going too harsh on me

[leolkfrm]

Hey, I think a lot of people learn lessons the expensive way, but the forum lets us help some one else not make the same mistake! as a foot note never repalce the fuses for the injectors on a 496 with breakers, it's dirty power and it will run like garbage($175 dollar lesson) thenks for posting back

[98k1500]

at least you where able to find the problem. I ve got no room for any critizing remarks. we all learn somehow.