sold 4 trucks to buy one(wife said I hd to many) - Page 2

batty1214 · 02-13-2009, 05:04 PM

and if I might pick your brain 75K30 could you look at
What gear ratio? and traction aid? in the ford forum?

Rago · 02-13-2009, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by batty1214

...and given he is a drunk/meth user, he might be filling me full of **** on all the axle upgrades...

Well at least you know the $300 went to good use

jk

I would probably say it doesn't have the axles he says it does. If it does, just assume the 9 inch wasn't installed correctly & start all over to be on the safe side.

I vote you drop in another BB! That way you can salvage parts from the junk motor & not have to deal with new mounts, hoses, exhaust routing, etc.

75K30 · 02-13-2009, 07:12 PM

No hazing.
I am suspicious of the rear axle though, and while it may look like a nine inch, I am confident that there is something different in there. I believe that you might have an Eaton rear axle, Probably the HO52 or even a 72. I do not know these axles very well, but something tells me that this is the case.
Regardless, I like those trucks. That body style has got to be my favorite. I have my eye on a K5 of that era right now.

batty1214 · 02-13-2009, 09:58 PM

What have I got if I have an eaton axle? junk or gem? am I looking at the 14 bolt swap sooner than I think?

75K30 · 02-13-2009, 11:09 PM

If you have an eaton, it is strong, though not as strong as the 14b. You will have a heak of a time finding things like lockers and such. This is just an expensive axle to build.

batty1214 · 02-14-2009, 11:24 AM

So after talking to my friend that works at an oilfield service company, I can get my hands on a 2001 gmc with an 8.1 and automatic trans that was rolled and they want 2000 for it, or they have a 2005 6.6duramax/allison truck that got t boned in the back end hard enough to tweak the frame. they want 5400 for it. the 8.1 has 98,000 on it, and the 6.6 has 68,000 on it. But I have also been looking into the Big block chevy crate motors. you know, 502 and bigger..... them are pricey

stumpuller454 · 02-14-2009, 11:51 AM

not much to haze over 300 bucks! the durry/ally conversion would be cool, my neighour did that in his 96 H1`, took a while and a bit of electrical but is a very nice combo truck now...

75K30 · 02-14-2009, 12:05 PM

Believe it or not. either of the swaps is easy as pie to perform. You have everything that you need already. The electrical is even a snap. ALl of the electrical in the new truck can be removed, and installed in the early truck. Really, remove all of the electricl harnesses, and simply install it into the old truck.
I have performed this and it is a snap, though time cosuming. The engine will run without the dash or anything wired up, and you can use after market gauges should you chose.
The only real interesting part is the new light bulbs and headlights and such. Some later model trucks use multiple headlights and your old truck uses a single one. This makes wiring a little difficult, but using a 4 pole relay can permit the use of hi/lo beam headlights. If you use an HID conversion for the old truck, then you will have no issues. As far as the rear, you just have to install the multi bulb system in to your old tailights, again, easy as pie.
The newer truck will have some interesting accessories that you can use. The auto dim rear view mirror, overhead console, map lights, and even the steror wiring can be used. You can even modify the window regulators to keep the power windows.
Install everything from the new truck into the old one, and you are gold.
Really, this is as easy as it gets.
The fun comes in trying to keep the 2wd trans and you existing axles, but you can find a remote mount 4wd NP205 transfer case so you can still use the 2wd transmission. Since the trans has all of the speed sensors, your only issue will be when you engage 4wd. The speedo will turn twice as fast and indication will be thrown off. I have yet to see a problem running this way, and have been running a later model engine and trans in a 74 truck for about three years now.
This is a gravy modification and has some real cool factor. Heak, you can even use the late model radiator, and shroud, I mean everything. Looks real nice, and you can even make the cruise control work.
Often times this is easier to install the late model steering column and keep the intermitant wipers, and other controls associated with the column.

batty1214 · 02-14-2009, 12:10 PM

well that gives me quite a bit of hope 75. Its nice to hear someone else has made it work, as I am still thinking that new technology in the old truck will be nice.

75K30 · 02-14-2009, 12:28 PM

You will have some fun with this. Really is satisfying to say the least, and injection is nice. YOu have enough room between the frame rails, and the tank from the new truck can fit in the old truck. This way you can use the late model fuel pump and sending unit.
I have used stand alone controllers and upfitted entire wiring harnesses. The advantage to useing the entire harness, is that everything is wired, right down to the trailer lights.
The LS style engines use a different style mount, but this is real easy to fabricate, and the trans uses a plain old mount, so fabbing up the x-member is a snap.

02-14-2009, 11:51 AM	#17
stumpuller454 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Grande Prairie, AB Posts: 2,043	not much to haze over 300 bucks! the durry/ally conversion would be cool, my neighour did that in his 96 H1`, took a while and a bit of electrical but is a very nice combo truck now... __________________ SUPERCHARGED 454 K2500 GMC! 450hp and 600ft/lbs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJ27RJHfJKE "sailing with Captain Morgan often!"

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02-13-2009, 05:04 PM	#11
batty1214 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Vernal Utah Posts: 1,135	and if I might pick your brain 75K30 could you look at What gear ratio? and traction aid? in the ford forum?

02-13-2009, 07:12 PM	#13
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,992	No hazing. I am suspicious of the rear axle though, and while it may look like a nine inch, I am confident that there is something different in there. I believe that you might have an Eaton rear axle, Probably the HO52 or even a 72. I do not know these axles very well, but something tells me that this is the case. Regardless, I like those trucks. That body style has got to be my favorite. I have my eye on a K5 of that era right now.

02-13-2009, 09:58 PM	#14
batty1214 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Vernal Utah Posts: 1,135	What have I got if I have an eaton axle? junk or gem? am I looking at the 14 bolt swap sooner than I think?

02-13-2009, 11:09 PM	#15
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,992	If you have an eaton, it is strong, though not as strong as the 14b. You will have a heak of a time finding things like lockers and such. This is just an expensive axle to build.

02-14-2009, 11:24 AM	#16
batty1214 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Vernal Utah Posts: 1,135	So after talking to my friend that works at an oilfield service company, I can get my hands on a 2001 gmc with an 8.1 and automatic trans that was rolled and they want 2000 for it, or they have a 2005 6.6duramax/allison truck that got t boned in the back end hard enough to tweak the frame. they want 5400 for it. the 8.1 has 98,000 on it, and the 6.6 has 68,000 on it. But I have also been looking into the Big block chevy crate motors. you know, 502 and bigger..... them are pricey

02-14-2009, 12:05 PM	#18
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,992	Believe it or not. either of the swaps is easy as pie to perform. You have everything that you need already. The electrical is even a snap. ALl of the electrical in the new truck can be removed, and installed in the early truck. Really, remove all of the electricl harnesses, and simply install it into the old truck. I have performed this and it is a snap, though time cosuming. The engine will run without the dash or anything wired up, and you can use after market gauges should you chose. The only real interesting part is the new light bulbs and headlights and such. Some later model trucks use multiple headlights and your old truck uses a single one. This makes wiring a little difficult, but using a 4 pole relay can permit the use of hi/lo beam headlights. If you use an HID conversion for the old truck, then you will have no issues. As far as the rear, you just have to install the multi bulb system in to your old tailights, again, easy as pie. The newer truck will have some interesting accessories that you can use. The auto dim rear view mirror, overhead console, map lights, and even the steror wiring can be used. You can even modify the window regulators to keep the power windows. Install everything from the new truck into the old one, and you are gold. Really, this is as easy as it gets. The fun comes in trying to keep the 2wd trans and you existing axles, but you can find a remote mount 4wd NP205 transfer case so you can still use the 2wd transmission. Since the trans has all of the speed sensors, your only issue will be when you engage 4wd. The speedo will turn twice as fast and indication will be thrown off. I have yet to see a problem running this way, and have been running a later model engine and trans in a 74 truck for about three years now. This is a gravy modification and has some real cool factor. Heak, you can even use the late model radiator, and shroud, I mean everything. Looks real nice, and you can even make the cruise control work. Often times this is easier to install the late model steering column and keep the intermitant wipers, and other controls associated with the column.

02-14-2009, 12:10 PM	#19
batty1214 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Vernal Utah Posts: 1,135	well that gives me quite a bit of hope 75. Its nice to hear someone else has made it work, as I am still thinking that new technology in the old truck will be nice.

02-14-2009, 12:28 PM	#20
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,992	You will have some fun with this. Really is satisfying to say the least, and injection is nice. YOu have enough room between the frame rails, and the tank from the new truck can fit in the old truck. This way you can use the late model fuel pump and sending unit. I have used stand alone controllers and upfitted entire wiring harnesses. The advantage to useing the entire harness, is that everything is wired, right down to the trailer lights. The LS style engines use a different style mount, but this is real easy to fabricate, and the trans uses a plain old mount, so fabbing up the x-member is a snap.