89 Chev 4 x 4 Rear Axle Seals - Page 3

Oriley · 04-13-2009, 02:23 PM

That small bolt that locks the long pin in place. I guess once I get the pin out I slide the axle in so the C-clamp will come off then I can pull the axle.

Oriley · 04-13-2009, 02:24 PM

It's a 8.5" differential if that matters.

75K30 · 04-13-2009, 10:51 PM

Hopefully you have figured this out already. Yes you will have to slightly move the axle in towards the diff to gain enough clearance to remove the "C" clip. If you are fortunate to have a cross pin that has enough clearance (pretty sure you dont) to allow the axle to be moved in far enough, then you dont actually have to remove the cross pin. Since I am 99.9% sure that you have to remove the cross pin, just make sure that the spider gears dont scare you when they pop out. After all of this the axles can be pushed in far enough to remove the clips. A telescopic magnet works soooooo well here, but a magnetic screwdriver or some mechanics picks can also work.
Dont have a magnetic scredriver? Lay it on the alternator when the engine is running, and it will magnetize the driver long enough to perform the job.
Once the clips are out, remove the axles and you are in like Flynn.
Be sure not to mixx up the axles. For some reason they get a little fussy about going in the opposite way. Seems that the splines twist and take a "set". Reversing this has usually turned into a broken axle for me. Just to be safe, leep them on the same side.

Oriley · 04-15-2009, 11:01 AM

Went and bought a 5/16 six point socket and the bolt came right out.

I only had to remove one axle so all the gears remained in place. Only problem I had was getting the seal in, guess I should have bought the installer tool. I had to resort to a bigger hammer.

After doing it once I find it's a very simple job, nothing to it. Geezz....hope I put that 'C' clip back in.

Checked this morning and no leaks!

Thanks guys.

04-15-2009, 11:01 AM	#24
Oriley Full Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Northern Minnesota Posts: 45	Success Went and bought a 5/16 six point socket and the bolt came right out. I only had to remove one axle so all the gears remained in place. Only problem I had was getting the seal in, guess I should have bought the installer tool. I had to resort to a bigger hammer. After doing it once I find it's a very simple job, nothing to it. Geezz....hope I put that 'C' clip back in. Checked this morning and no leaks! Thanks guys.

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04-13-2009, 02:23 PM	#21
Oriley Full Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Northern Minnesota Posts: 45	That small bolt that locks the long pin in place. I guess once I get the pin out I slide the axle in so the C-clamp will come off then I can pull the axle.

04-13-2009, 02:24 PM	#22
Oriley Full Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Northern Minnesota Posts: 45	It's a 8.5" differential if that matters.

04-13-2009, 10:51 PM	#23
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 3,312	Hopefully you have figured this out already. Yes you will have to slightly move the axle in towards the diff to gain enough clearance to remove the "C" clip. If you are fortunate to have a cross pin that has enough clearance (pretty sure you dont) to allow the axle to be moved in far enough, then you dont actually have to remove the cross pin. Since I am 99.9% sure that you have to remove the cross pin, just make sure that the spider gears dont scare you when they pop out. After all of this the axles can be pushed in far enough to remove the clips. A telescopic magnet works soooooo well here, but a magnetic screwdriver or some mechanics picks can also work. Dont have a magnetic scredriver? Lay it on the alternator when the engine is running, and it will magnetize the driver long enough to perform the job. Once the clips are out, remove the axles and you are in like Flynn. Be sure not to mixx up the axles. For some reason they get a little fussy about going in the opposite way. Seems that the splines twist and take a "set". Reversing this has usually turned into a broken axle for me. Just to be safe, leep them on the same side.