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Old 03-23-2009, 01:48 PM   #1
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Question got a few questions

My 1987 ck/20 350 5.7 tbi has cabon granuales in it from the vapor canister.
This means the canister it's self is shot right?
How far in do I have to go removing these particles?
Would this be the cause of the lopeing problem in my engine?

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Last edited by nativebroncofan; 03-23-2009 at 02:13 PM. Reason: missing info
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Old 03-23-2009, 02:24 PM   #2
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I believe they are supposed to be there, they are charcoal granules to absorb the fuel vapors.
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Old 03-23-2009, 03:52 PM   #3
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charcoal yes but not in the throttle body.
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Old 03-23-2009, 05:38 PM   #4
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Wow I never saw a throttle body suck the carbon out of one, if you can psot some pics
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Old 03-23-2009, 05:42 PM   #5
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sorry, didn't see the part about them in the throttle body, I think you may be able to disconnect the hose on the throttle body to help clean them out. Leaving the cannister unhooked should not affect the way the truck runs. You may be able to remove the top to the cannister and put in another screen to contain the granules, it would be worth a shot and cheaper than replacing it. Try a shop vac on the port where the cannister hooks up and see if you can get them out that way.
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Old 03-23-2009, 06:13 PM   #6
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I had that problem on a 84 dodge one time, If you dont want to disconnect the canister you can put a inline fuel filter in the line, that will keep the chunks out but still let the vapor through.
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Old 03-29-2009, 09:12 PM   #7
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leolkfrm sorry no digital camera. The granuals had packed into the creavese of the tbi body.

Kennyray and 340doc, I wish that I had kept up on the posts. I went ahead and ordered a new canister. And when I went back together with the fuel meter cover I forgot to push the injectors down all the way.
Wound up cracking the injector housing.
So, off to the local pick and pull. I found two and bought them both.
Took the better looking one cleaned it up and put it all back together again. Still had the lopeing problem.
The next STUPID thing I did was to try and open up the wire loom at the right rear of the engine. I wound up cutting the caseing on the white/brown engine temerature sensor wire. Luckilly it was just the caseing of the wire and not the wire it's self.
I found the TPS wires that were factory all looked good. Buttoned it back up and now my tac makes jumps that are out of sequence with the egine.
Seems to be an electrical impulse.
Thinking I should get back into that wire loom and check it again.
Can anyone tell me if the electronic spark control module on the HEI system can be checked for functionality before I go off and find a new one?


Thanks all,
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:08 PM   #8
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Re-did the loom got rid of the "jump" in the tachometer. Replaced the knock sensor, got rid of the codes 42 & 43. Code 44 still shows up. Guess the dry dock situation for a years time was enough to dry rot the gaskets.
I put in new spark plugs, correctly gapped and I still have the lopeing problem, seems to be getting worse.
I would like to start with the TBI. Can anyone tell me how to set the idle speed screw on a TBI unit????
Should be some way of hooking up the old multimeter and getting it set.
I still don't have the points on my card at the zone to buy the TBI book that they sell.
Please
NBF
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Old 04-01-2009, 06:53 AM   #9
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TBI sets itself. there is a small sensor mounted on the drivers side of the TB that is your idle air. if this is malfunctioning, your engine will completely die unless you keep gas pumping to it. remember, this is EFI. very little tuning as the ECM does this for you.
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:16 AM   #10
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More than likely... yes it is shot idk how hard it would be to remove the particles of how far in the are. you may need a whole rebuild kit for the carb. if i was you i would take the carb off and see if there was carbon build up in the intake. if so then you might have a little more of a problem then just the carb.
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