Edlebrock 750 Question - Page 3

bradrhale · 04-05-2009, 07:26 PM

rule of thumb for me when breaking in a fresh install is to bring the RPMs up through each gear one at a time. keep it under high loads for a while or especially through the first couple of oil changes.

hotrodpc · 04-06-2009, 02:22 AM

I bet this stuff does the trick.

https://secure.pawengineparts.com/sh...0508&catid=719

Extend the durability of internal engine components, including camshafts, lifters and all valve train components.
Special blend of extreme pressure additives no longer available in off the shelf motor oils
Provides added protection during critical engine break-in process Compatible with any petroleum, synthetic or blended motor oil."
Item# COM-159

77chevystepside · 04-06-2009, 06:43 AM

I agree with bradrhale on the breakin. Years ago I had a fresh 396 I put in in a 68 chevy 3/4 ton truck to replace a 327. I was told to vary highway speeds and put on a load now and then for the first 500. I started towing a heavy trailer at around 500 and never looked back. The engine never winked other than breaking rockers left and right. Can't really remember what the deal was but ended up replacing all rockers and was good after that. If I remember right (20 years ago), the rockers just couldn't handle the new springs.
Kinda funny to relect back on those days. The 396 cost me around $500 giving the guy the 327. Not sure what it would cost to do that today.

hotrodpc · 04-06-2009, 07:14 AM

I agree with brad too, but there are things you do to break in a cam from the first second you crank it over for the first time. The first few minutes of that cams life can be crtical. Its been a long time since I built a motor. It seems like it was something like as soon as you start it or the first time, you keep the rpms over 1200 or 1500 for the first 5 minutes. You never know. It may be like CPR. The proper method to do CPR has changed at least twice since I can remember. I would just be sure the read the manufactuers break in procedure.

77chevystepside · 04-06-2009, 07:35 AM

I am much better informed after all of your posts. Planning to see the guy who built the engine today or tomorrow and do some discussion with him about what cam he put in and how he plans to do the break in on start up. Thanks again.

hotrodpc · 04-06-2009, 07:43 AM

Yikes, that procedure is vary the RPMS at first start up from 1500 to 3000 RPM's for the first 20 minutes. Here is a decent article that describes what I am reffering too. I notice this article is from 2006, so be cautious on the oil they reccomend here. As I said above, it seems someone told me that even Rotella has been reformulated now too. I never knew the Chevron Diesel oil could be used. But yeah, I would give this article a reading over. CraneCams

bradrhale · 04-06-2009, 10:48 AM

how come noone has said anything about priming the pump?? i always put that nasty greasy cam lube in there. i figure if it wont come off of me, than it has got to be good on that fresh engine until the oil gets to pumping good.

hotrodpc · 04-06-2009, 11:46 AM

Good Point Brad. That goes without saying doesn't it??? I bet not. Not sure we were talking a first time fire up. I just wanted him to know about the Cam break in procedure since many people are not aware due to EPA regulations, zinc has been taken out of the motor oil and it important to handle the break in procedure properly if using a flat tappet cam shaft on the older motors. You know me, I have 101 stories. You don't want to know how I know this and figured it out.

77chevystepside · 04-10-2009, 07:40 AM

good point Bradhale. I would hope that anyone getting an engine rebuilt or buying a crate motor would ask the builder how to break the engine in and they would learn about oil priming. I am not sure it would be the end of an engine it was not primed and got oil pressure soon. I suppose some damage would be done but would it be significant in the life of the engine. Who knows??
Anyone ever work for an auto manufacturer? Did they and now do they prime every new engine on the assembly line before it is fired and driven out the door? I know of some engine rebuilding places who run engines before they are sold and I am sure they prime them. I am curious about assembly line cars though.

hotrodpc · 04-10-2009, 08:09 AM

I always did. I had a big screwdriver with a big tip on it, I cut the handle off, and chucked it up in my 1/2 drill and primed the motor before I put the dizzy in. Some people do not think priming is necessary because they use assembly lube, and the lube will work until the oil pump takes over. Its a PITA, but I would have to make four 1/4 turns 2 times, because I always plasti gauged every journal first, then added assembly lube when I torqued it back down the second time. Assembley lube can throw your plasti guage measurment off.

04-06-2009, 06:43 AM	#23
77chevystepside Full Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 27	Engine Break in I agree with bradrhale on the breakin. Years ago I had a fresh 396 I put in in a 68 chevy 3/4 ton truck to replace a 327. I was told to vary highway speeds and put on a load now and then for the first 500. I started towing a heavy trailer at around 500 and never looked back. The engine never winked other than breaking rockers left and right. Can't really remember what the deal was but ended up replacing all rockers and was good after that. If I remember right (20 years ago), the rockers just couldn't handle the new springs. Kinda funny to relect back on those days. The 396 cost me around $500 giving the guy the 327. Not sure what it would cost to do that today.

04-10-2009, 07:40 AM	#29
77chevystepside Full Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 27	Oil Priming good point Bradhale. I would hope that anyone getting an engine rebuilt or buying a crate motor would ask the builder how to break the engine in and they would learn about oil priming. I am not sure it would be the end of an engine it was not primed and got oil pressure soon. I suppose some damage would be done but would it be significant in the life of the engine. Who knows?? Anyone ever work for an auto manufacturer? Did they and now do they prime every new engine on the assembly line before it is fired and driven out the door? I know of some engine rebuilding places who run engines before they are sold and I am sure they prime them. I am curious about assembly line cars though.

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04-05-2009, 07:26 PM	#21
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 9,547	rule of thumb for me when breaking in a fresh install is to bring the RPMs up through each gear one at a time. keep it under high loads for a while or especially through the first couple of oil changes.

04-06-2009, 02:22 AM	#22
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OK Posts: 6,935	I bet this stuff does the trick. https://secure.pawengineparts.com/sh...0508&catid=719 Extend the durability of internal engine components, including camshafts, lifters and all valve train components. Special blend of extreme pressure additives no longer available in off the shelf motor oils Provides added protection during critical engine break-in process Compatible with any petroleum, synthetic or blended motor oil." Item# COM-159

04-06-2009, 07:14 AM	#24
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OK Posts: 6,935	I agree with brad too, but there are things you do to break in a cam from the first second you crank it over for the first time. The first few minutes of that cams life can be crtical. Its been a long time since I built a motor. It seems like it was something like as soon as you start it or the first time, you keep the rpms over 1200 or 1500 for the first 5 minutes. You never know. It may be like CPR. The proper method to do CPR has changed at least twice since I can remember. I would just be sure the read the manufactuers break in procedure.

04-06-2009, 07:35 AM	#25
77chevystepside Full Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 27	I am much better informed after all of your posts. Planning to see the guy who built the engine today or tomorrow and do some discussion with him about what cam he put in and how he plans to do the break in on start up. Thanks again.

04-06-2009, 07:43 AM	#26
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OK Posts: 6,935	Yikes, that procedure is vary the RPMS at first start up from 1500 to 3000 RPM's for the first 20 minutes. Here is a decent article that describes what I am reffering too. I notice this article is from 2006, so be cautious on the oil they reccomend here. As I said above, it seems someone told me that even Rotella has been reformulated now too. I never knew the Chevron Diesel oil could be used. But yeah, I would give this article a reading over. CraneCams

04-06-2009, 10:48 AM	#27
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 9,547	how come noone has said anything about priming the pump?? i always put that nasty greasy cam lube in there. i figure if it wont come off of me, than it has got to be good on that fresh engine until the oil gets to pumping good.

04-06-2009, 11:46 AM	#28
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OK Posts: 6,935	Good Point Brad. That goes without saying doesn't it??? I bet not. Not sure we were talking a first time fire up. I just wanted him to know about the Cam break in procedure since many people are not aware due to EPA regulations, zinc has been taken out of the motor oil and it important to handle the break in procedure properly if using a flat tappet cam shaft on the older motors. You know me, I have 101 stories. You don't want to know how I know this and figured it out.

04-10-2009, 08:09 AM	#30
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OK Posts: 6,935	I always did. I had a big screwdriver with a big tip on it, I cut the handle off, and chucked it up in my 1/2 drill and primed the motor before I put the dizzy in. Some people do not think priming is necessary because they use assembly lube, and the lube will work until the oil pump takes over. Its a PITA, but I would have to make four 1/4 turns 2 times, because I always plasti gauged every journal first, then added assembly lube when I torqued it back down the second time. Assembley lube can throw your plasti guage measurment off.