Diff. Leaking - Page 3

72'CaminoKid · 04-14-2009, 12:49 AM

alright, i see what your saying now. i was thinkin you changed out your R&P and from what i read i couldnt believe it hadnt exploded yet. lol..... you may have to try one of the sleeves previously mentioned. or someone said something about a seal that sits higher up so as not to ride in the groove

bradrhale · 04-14-2009, 06:51 AM

what do you mean by yoke shaft?? the yoke seperates off the shaft and the shaft is part of the pinion?? if you removed that, than you still have to break into that to verify all specs are correct. even by replacing just that one bearing. by the way, there is another pinion bearing further in there.

curt 5.7 · 04-14-2009, 09:29 AM

What I mean by yoke/shaft, is that the yoke is attached to the shaft it is maybe 8"-10" long and it has splines and it bolts to a splined shaft that comes out of the diff.

hotrodpc · 04-14-2009, 11:19 AM

Sounds like all he replaced was the yoke itself. But you still need to get the torque spec on that nut and torque it properly.

bradrhale · 04-14-2009, 11:52 AM

on the same page now. was getting kinda worried there. is it still leaking??

curt 5.7 · 04-14-2009, 01:34 PM

I replaced the seal it still leaked so, I changed the yoke with a used one that I have.It still leaks so I order a repare kit for the yoke/shaft, it's a sleeve that fit's over it to hide the marks made by the old seal.

hotrodpc · 04-14-2009, 01:57 PM

So you are saying the differant one you put on also has a groove cut in it? Or you are unable to find a seal that will ride on the yoke in a differant spot? If both are true, then yes, that would be your last option. To get the sleeve and seal kit. Usually the sleeve comes with an oversize seal too. So next time you have this issue a standard seal will not work. Not a big deal though. Fix this, by the time it goes bad again, it will likley be time to rebuild the whole rear. Have you priced a new yoke vs the price of the sleeve and seal kit? Certainly the kit will be cheaper, but for a bit more you might just be able to get a new yoke. I know they are not cheap though.

curt 5.7 · 04-14-2009, 04:42 PM

It was cheaper for a sleeve that a yoke.I couldn't find a different seal that would ride in a different spot and still work properly.

hotrodpc · 04-14-2009, 05:41 PM

Great, you have it ordered and ought to have you fixed up for sure after that. The kit comes with the oversize seal too? I'd imagine so. The "Kit" should be the sleeve, seal and instructions. I would reccomend you find the torque specs though and they could be differant now too with this kit, maybe not but it should say. The torque is important because you have shim and/or spacers in there for the correct lash. To loose you can have lash slop back and forth on the ring gear. To tight which is highly unlikely, then crush the shims or spacers and lash will also be wrong and the pinion will ride on the edge of the ring gear and in bad cases of that, it will chip the ring gear. Your shims are already there, so that is highly unlikely but if you were to set up a rear end and did not use shims that is the possibility. So with all that BS explanation, because I do not consider myself a rear end guru whatsover, and still learning myself, I am just trying to emphasize how important it is to use the proper torque settings. If you do not have a torque wrench, many of the chain Auto Parts store will let you borrow one with a deposit or credit card of the tools value. Bad thing about that is, you don't know if the last guy abused it and if its accurate or not for sure. Borrowing one from a buddy or having him come over to help you is another option. 75K30 has a super real nice torque wrench.

Ask him to borrow his.

................Ok, now I am just stirring up ****.

curt 5.7 · 04-14-2009, 08:05 PM

I have too many tools and a torque wrench.Most of them are metric need a few more for fixing the truck.I have to say that trucks are way different then sleds.Was driving to town today and while I was passing a car at 45mph I put the pedal 3/4 of the way down and man did the truck pull pushed me in the seat it never did that before and I liked it haha.Any one know the torque spec for the 1 1/4" nut?

04-14-2009, 12:49 AM	#21
72'CaminoKid Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 2,756	alright, i see what your saying now. i was thinkin you changed out your R&P and from what i read i couldnt believe it hadnt exploded yet. lol..... you may have to try one of the sleeves previously mentioned. or someone said something about a seal that sits higher up so as not to ride in the groove __________________ 99 suburban xlt 96 silverado 91 wrangler (my baby ) 08 Honday shadow 750 (my mistress)

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04-14-2009, 06:51 AM	#22
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 8,022	what do you mean by yoke shaft?? the yoke seperates off the shaft and the shaft is part of the pinion?? if you removed that, than you still have to break into that to verify all specs are correct. even by replacing just that one bearing. by the way, there is another pinion bearing further in there.

04-14-2009, 09:29 AM	#23
curt 5.7 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 52	What I mean by yoke/shaft, is that the yoke is attached to the shaft it is maybe 8"-10" long and it has splines and it bolts to a splined shaft that comes out of the diff.

04-14-2009, 11:19 AM	#24
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,149	Sounds like all he replaced was the yoke itself. But you still need to get the torque spec on that nut and torque it properly.

04-14-2009, 11:52 AM	#25
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 8,022	on the same page now. was getting kinda worried there. is it still leaking??

04-14-2009, 01:34 PM	#26
curt 5.7 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 52	I replaced the seal it still leaked so, I changed the yoke with a used one that I have.It still leaks so I order a repare kit for the yoke/shaft, it's a sleeve that fit's over it to hide the marks made by the old seal.

04-14-2009, 01:57 PM	#27
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,149	So you are saying the differant one you put on also has a groove cut in it? Or you are unable to find a seal that will ride on the yoke in a differant spot? If both are true, then yes, that would be your last option. To get the sleeve and seal kit. Usually the sleeve comes with an oversize seal too. So next time you have this issue a standard seal will not work. Not a big deal though. Fix this, by the time it goes bad again, it will likley be time to rebuild the whole rear. Have you priced a new yoke vs the price of the sleeve and seal kit? Certainly the kit will be cheaper, but for a bit more you might just be able to get a new yoke. I know they are not cheap though.

04-14-2009, 04:42 PM	#28
curt 5.7 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 52	It was cheaper for a sleeve that a yoke.I couldn't find a different seal that would ride in a different spot and still work properly.

04-14-2009, 05:41 PM	#29
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,149	Great, you have it ordered and ought to have you fixed up for sure after that. The kit comes with the oversize seal too? I'd imagine so. The "Kit" should be the sleeve, seal and instructions. I would reccomend you find the torque specs though and they could be differant now too with this kit, maybe not but it should say. The torque is important because you have shim and/or spacers in there for the correct lash. To loose you can have lash slop back and forth on the ring gear. To tight which is highly unlikely, then crush the shims or spacers and lash will also be wrong and the pinion will ride on the edge of the ring gear and in bad cases of that, it will chip the ring gear. Your shims are already there, so that is highly unlikely but if you were to set up a rear end and did not use shims that is the possibility. So with all that BS explanation, because I do not consider myself a rear end guru whatsover, and still learning myself, I am just trying to emphasize how important it is to use the proper torque settings. If you do not have a torque wrench, many of the chain Auto Parts store will let you borrow one with a deposit or credit card of the tools value. Bad thing about that is, you don't know if the last guy abused it and if its accurate or not for sure. Borrowing one from a buddy or having him come over to help you is another option. 75K30 has a super real nice torque wrench. Ask him to borrow his. ................Ok, now I am just stirring up ****.

04-14-2009, 08:05 PM	#30
curt 5.7 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 52	I have too many tools and a torque wrench.Most of them are metric need a few more for fixing the truck.I have to say that trucks are way different then sleds.Was driving to town today and while I was passing a car at 45mph I put the pedal 3/4 of the way down and man did the truck pull pushed me in the seat it never did that before and I liked it haha.Any one know the torque spec for the 1 1/4" nut?