Diff. Leaking - Page 4

lotadoh · 04-15-2009, 05:25 AM

I may be wrong but I always heard that you need to put Permatex #2 on the yoke splines, before bolting it back up, or you will still have the leak. I did it on my Corvette and it worked great. It should be the same for a truck.

bradrhale · 04-15-2009, 06:51 AM

the seal should not be riding on the splines. if it is, than you have a problem that cannot be solved without buying new parts. never heard of permatex on the splines. the yoke can be something else to take off anyways. why make it even harder to take it off??

hotrodpc · 04-15-2009, 11:21 AM

Never heard that either. I wouldn't want the junk in my diff either.

lotadoh · 04-15-2009, 03:51 PM

Well if you search the Internet, it is recommended on a lot of sites.The Permatex #2 doesn't go IN the differential. It goes on the yoke splines. It can't enter the differential. The reason you would use it, is for added insurance that you get no leakage from the splines. Permatex #2 is a gasket maker. Its not Loc-Tite. It shouldn't be any harder to pull the yoke, with it there or not. Many people I have talked to, say that without it, you are alot more likely to still have a leak after replacing the pinion seal. Just my opinion.

lotadoh · 04-15-2009, 04:05 PM

Also, anytime you are going to remove the pinion nut, you should mark the yoke, shaft and nut, and when you're re-installing, you tighten the nut until the marks line up, or SLIGHTLY tighter.

curt 5.7 · 04-15-2009, 06:05 PM

Anyone know the torque spec. for the nut?

lotadoh · 04-15-2009, 06:59 PM

Don't take this the wrong way. I am not trying to bash you. I'm trying to help. I am in the middle of restoring a Corvette and I have learned my lesson. I also have a 86 gmc truck that I am working on. It's much better to try and find the correct way to make repairs (either through a forum or elsewhere), before you start the repair, rather than making a mistake, and then trying to figure out how to fix it. If tightening the pinion nut was as easy as just finding the correct torque setting, nobody would give the advice to mark everything and tighten it to the same position. You have to return the nut to its original position, or you can have problems. As in a previos post by me, no matter what anyone says, you SHOULD use Permatex #2 on the yoke splines. It can hurt nothing and only help. I hope everything works out for you. I'm only trying to lend some help and experience.

leolkfrm · 04-15-2009, 07:02 PM

count the # of threads showing before removal, reassemble having the same # of threads showing after assembling

bradrhale · 04-15-2009, 07:55 PM

i am still not understanding why someone would permatex the splines. the are not part of the shoulder where the seal rides so there should be no fluids to seal off. i have taken a large number of these things apart and never used permatex on them. never had a leak either.

hotrodpc · 04-15-2009, 09:40 PM

It appears to be an arguable subject and matter of personal opinion as many self mechanics do have their own beliefs. Personally, I will never use Permatex on my splines, and personally I do not care where the nut lands as long as the torque spec is correct. Reason being, he may have over 100,000 miles on that rear end. In that amound of time, wear has taken place, and it is very possible the correct torque spec may land the nut in a differant location. I am not trying to bash anyone either lotadoh, and I certainly value your opinion and input. JMO, I disagree on this one.

04-15-2009, 07:02 PM	#38
leolkfrm Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: N.Y. Posts: 4,300	count the # of threads showing before removal, reassemble having the same # of threads showing after assembling __________________ 4 wheels move the body 2 wheels move the soul B.W.A.I

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04-15-2009, 05:25 AM	#31
lotadoh Auto Banned Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 24	I may be wrong but I always heard that you need to put Permatex #2 on the yoke splines, before bolting it back up, or you will still have the leak. I did it on my Corvette and it worked great. It should be the same for a truck.

04-15-2009, 06:51 AM	#32
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 8,021	the seal should not be riding on the splines. if it is, than you have a problem that cannot be solved without buying new parts. never heard of permatex on the splines. the yoke can be something else to take off anyways. why make it even harder to take it off??

04-15-2009, 11:21 AM	#33
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,145	Never heard that either. I wouldn't want the junk in my diff either.

04-15-2009, 03:51 PM	#34
lotadoh Auto Banned Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 24	Well if you search the Internet, it is recommended on a lot of sites.The Permatex #2 doesn't go IN the differential. It goes on the yoke splines. It can't enter the differential. The reason you would use it, is for added insurance that you get no leakage from the splines. Permatex #2 is a gasket maker. Its not Loc-Tite. It shouldn't be any harder to pull the yoke, with it there or not. Many people I have talked to, say that without it, you are alot more likely to still have a leak after replacing the pinion seal. Just my opinion.

04-15-2009, 04:05 PM	#35
lotadoh Auto Banned Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 24	Also, anytime you are going to remove the pinion nut, you should mark the yoke, shaft and nut, and when you're re-installing, you tighten the nut until the marks line up, or SLIGHTLY tighter.

04-15-2009, 06:05 PM	#36
curt 5.7 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 52	Anyone know the torque spec. for the nut?

04-15-2009, 06:59 PM	#37
lotadoh Auto Banned Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 24	Don't take this the wrong way. I am not trying to bash you. I'm trying to help. I am in the middle of restoring a Corvette and I have learned my lesson. I also have a 86 gmc truck that I am working on. It's much better to try and find the correct way to make repairs (either through a forum or elsewhere), before you start the repair, rather than making a mistake, and then trying to figure out how to fix it. If tightening the pinion nut was as easy as just finding the correct torque setting, nobody would give the advice to mark everything and tighten it to the same position. You have to return the nut to its original position, or you can have problems. As in a previos post by me, no matter what anyone says, you SHOULD use Permatex #2 on the yoke splines. It can hurt nothing and only help. I hope everything works out for you. I'm only trying to lend some help and experience.

04-15-2009, 07:55 PM	#39
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 8,021	i am still not understanding why someone would permatex the splines. the are not part of the shoulder where the seal rides so there should be no fluids to seal off. i have taken a large number of these things apart and never used permatex on them. never had a leak either.

04-15-2009, 09:40 PM	#40
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,145	It appears to be an arguable subject and matter of personal opinion as many self mechanics do have their own beliefs. Personally, I will never use Permatex on my splines, and personally I do not care where the nut lands as long as the torque spec is correct. Reason being, he may have over 100,000 miles on that rear end. In that amound of time, wear has taken place, and it is very possible the correct torque spec may land the nut in a differant location. I am not trying to bash anyone either lotadoh, and I certainly value your opinion and input. JMO, I disagree on this one.