Diff. Leaking - Page 6

hotrodpc · 04-16-2009, 08:18 PM

As in lotadoh's method? Would be the same thing. Marking it. You know once it starts to be tight to stop or take it to your mark.

leolkfrm · 04-16-2009, 08:31 PM

Maybe this will help you

Seal Replacement. [Procedure: Abe Crombie/Dennis] Replacement of this seal will require removal of driveshaft and the pinion flange (first marking the position of everything with paint and then a punch or Dremel so as to preserve the original relationship as it

was balanced in-car at assembly.) Remove the pinion flange that the drive shaft bolts to, first marking it in relation to pinion so as to preserve its position since it will unbalance the driveshaft assembly if not put back into position as it was. Drain the rear differential oil. [See below] Remove the center flange nut, then remove the flange with a puller; no hammering allowed! Seal ("1" in the photo below) can be removed by any reasonable means that doesn't scratch the opening in the diff housing where seal fits. You can put a good-sized screwdriver in between the seal and the pinion shaft and pry it out. It will distort and tear but will come out. Some respondents have not found this very effective: if so, try the following advice to bend the seal housing lip over. Whatever you do, DON'T damage the housing or shaft.

You can take a small 1/4 inch chisel or narrow flatbladed screwdriver and

tap it into the little crease that exists between the edge of the metal seal and the edge of the diff housing (be CAREFUL not to damage the differential housing!!). This will cause the tin seal housing to bend over and loosen it's grip on the diff housing. Do this at least 50% of the way around that outer edge and then put a large screwdriver in next to the pinion where the flange was and use it to lever the seal right out. It should pop out with no problems if you did it right. There is a large washer behind the seal, next to the bearing, which you can remove using a dental pick or magnet. Insert a paper towel or other dirt block: don't let debris enter the bearing. Carefully clean the flange where it contacts the seal, removing any rust to ensure the new seal fits. You can use a Dremel with a fine stone to remove rust and clean up any nicks if you are careful. Make sure you install the seal right way around: "outside" is stamped in the metal seal ring. Put a little grease on the seal surface and

spring so it won't rotate dry and then tap it in place. The new seal will need to be driven in evenly to be just below flush with front of diff housing unless it is one with a lip that stops it when the lip contacts the diff housing. You want it deep enough so the flange does not rub on the outer steel portion of the seal. If you have a socket that is about the size of the seal use that to get it in even, if not just keep at it gently until it is seated evenly all the way around. A brass hammer works well. Re-install flange as marked and tap it onto the greased shaft far enough to engage the splines about ½”. Reinstall the counter hold tool, refit the nut (Volvo recommends a new nut), and tighten the nut to push the flange home. The torque depends on whether your seal uses a compression sleeve or not. NO IMPACT WRENCH ALLOWED, TORQUE IT!!!

No compression sleeve: range 200-250 Nm (148-184 ft-lb.
Compression sleeve: 180-200 Nm (range 133 ft-lb to no more than 148 ft-lb. No axial play is allowed.
If you have a multilink 1035/1045 axle: range 180-200 Nm (133-148 ft.lb maximum.) Use a new, oiled nut. No axle play is allowed. Check drive flange runout and relocate it one-quarter turn until you get less than 0.05mm runout. If you can't get that, replace the flange.)

hotrodpc · 04-16-2009, 08:37 PM

Hmm, yep good info there Leo. At least it gives a torque spec. But I do have to say, Lotodoh is right too. I was just reading a military manual on the 14bolt for pinion seal replacement. Step 1 is measure the torque on disassembly, Step 2 is scribe a line from pinion stem, flange and flange nut, and count the threads too. So it appears by your info, we are all right, it just depends on what type of sleeve is being used. Great to know we have an adult like disagreement, and even better, noone was actually wrong.

curt 5.7 · 04-16-2009, 08:51 PM

Nice find leo.The sleeve kit is just the sleeve no oner size seal needed.The diff. is a 8.5.Will be putting in the sleeve in the next few days once I get some time.

hotrodpc · 04-16-2009, 08:57 PM

Cool. So you got the part already? Lets hope it works for you and solves your problem. Your issue has certainly been a learnig experience for me. I am certain you will sure be back to post the outcome. While looking for your info, I found a military technical manual on my 14 bolt rear end which also has a leaking pinion seal. So you can bet I am studying that right now and trying to get it all book marked. Those TM manuals are very thorough. Hard to navigate in them, but the info is great. Good Luck with the sleeve. My fingers are crossed for your successful fix.

curt 5.7 · 04-17-2009, 06:48 AM

Most parts take overnight to get here, but they stock most of them.Going to try and put the sleeve in today.

04-16-2009, 08:31 PM	#52
leolkfrm Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: N.Y. Posts: 4,300	Maybe this will help you Seal Replacement. [Procedure: Abe Crombie/Dennis] Replacement of this seal will require removal of driveshaft and the pinion flange (first marking the position of everything with paint and then a punch or Dremel so as to preserve the original relationship as it was balanced in-car at assembly.) Remove the pinion flange that the drive shaft bolts to, first marking it in relation to pinion so as to preserve its position since it will unbalance the driveshaft assembly if not put back into position as it was. Drain the rear differential oil. [See below] Remove the center flange nut, then remove the flange with a puller; no hammering allowed! Seal ("1" in the photo below) can be removed by any reasonable means that doesn't scratch the opening in the diff housing where seal fits. You can put a good-sized screwdriver in between the seal and the pinion shaft and pry it out. It will distort and tear but will come out. Some respondents have not found this very effective: if so, try the following advice to bend the seal housing lip over. Whatever you do, DON'T damage the housing or shaft. You can take a small 1/4 inch chisel or narrow flatbladed screwdriver and tap it into the little crease that exists between the edge of the metal seal and the edge of the diff housing (be CAREFUL not to damage the differential housing!!). This will cause the tin seal housing to bend over and loosen it's grip on the diff housing. Do this at least 50% of the way around that outer edge and then put a large screwdriver in next to the pinion where the flange was and use it to lever the seal right out. It should pop out with no problems if you did it right. There is a large washer behind the seal, next to the bearing, which you can remove using a dental pick or magnet. Insert a paper towel or other dirt block: don't let debris enter the bearing. Carefully clean the flange where it contacts the seal, removing any rust to ensure the new seal fits. You can use a Dremel with a fine stone to remove rust and clean up any nicks if you are careful. Make sure you install the seal right way around: "outside" is stamped in the metal seal ring. Put a little grease on the seal surface and spring so it won't rotate dry and then tap it in place. The new seal will need to be driven in evenly to be just below flush with front of diff housing unless it is one with a lip that stops it when the lip contacts the diff housing. You want it deep enough so the flange does not rub on the outer steel portion of the seal. If you have a socket that is about the size of the seal use that to get it in even, if not just keep at it gently until it is seated evenly all the way around. A brass hammer works well. Re-install flange as marked and tap it onto the greased shaft far enough to engage the splines about ½”. Reinstall the counter hold tool, refit the nut (Volvo recommends a new nut), and tighten the nut to push the flange home. The torque depends on whether your seal uses a compression sleeve or not. NO IMPACT WRENCH ALLOWED, TORQUE IT!!! No compression sleeve: range 200-250 Nm (148-184 ft-lb. Compression sleeve: 180-200 Nm (range 133 ft-lb to no more than 148 ft-lb. No axial play is allowed. If you have a multilink 1035/1045 axle: range 180-200 Nm (133-148 ft.lb maximum.) Use a new, oiled nut. No axle play is allowed. Check drive flange runout and relocate it one-quarter turn until you get less than 0.05mm runout. If you can't get that, replace the flange.) __________________ 4 wheels move the body 2 wheels move the soul B.W.A.I

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04-16-2009, 08:18 PM	#51
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,149	As in lotadoh's method? Would be the same thing. Marking it. You know once it starts to be tight to stop or take it to your mark.

04-16-2009, 08:37 PM	#53
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,149	Hmm, yep good info there Leo. At least it gives a torque spec. But I do have to say, Lotodoh is right too. I was just reading a military manual on the 14bolt for pinion seal replacement. Step 1 is measure the torque on disassembly, Step 2 is scribe a line from pinion stem, flange and flange nut, and count the threads too. So it appears by your info, we are all right, it just depends on what type of sleeve is being used. Great to know we have an adult like disagreement, and even better, noone was actually wrong.

04-16-2009, 08:51 PM	#54
curt 5.7 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 52	Nice find leo.The sleeve kit is just the sleeve no oner size seal needed.The diff. is a 8.5.Will be putting in the sleeve in the next few days once I get some time.

04-16-2009, 08:57 PM	#55
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,149	Cool. So you got the part already? Lets hope it works for you and solves your problem. Your issue has certainly been a learnig experience for me. I am certain you will sure be back to post the outcome. While looking for your info, I found a military technical manual on my 14 bolt rear end which also has a leaking pinion seal. So you can bet I am studying that right now and trying to get it all book marked. Those TM manuals are very thorough. Hard to navigate in them, but the info is great. Good Luck with the sleeve. My fingers are crossed for your successful fix.

04-17-2009, 06:48 AM	#56
curt 5.7 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 52	Most parts take overnight to get here, but they stock most of them.Going to try and put the sleeve in today.