2000 Chevy S-10 Cranks but wont start

walkerbo · 09-07-2009, 12:00 PM

Hello,
New guy here hehe. My father in laws truck will crank but wont start. We have replaced all the plugs, wires, new dist cap button etc. Changed oil and filter. Well last week his truck was dead, turns out it was the alternator and battery both bad. We replaced them. His truck has always ran rough, and bogs down when you first start it. But after it warms up it would run fine.

Well this morning his truck would not start at all. We replaced the ignition module thats inside the distributor. No help, still wont start. We tried pouring fuel into the TB but it wouldnt start, it runs EXTREMELY rough for a second then dies.

The fuel pump is priming and you can hear it pumping strongly, we havent tested the fuel pressure yet.

I just cant figure out if its the crank sensor,ignition switch(sensor) ECM temperature sensor,EGR valve etc etc. Could it be that the pump IS in fact pumping but just not strong enough? I'm about to pull my hair out please help.

1939 CV Man · 09-08-2009, 09:35 AM

Hi
I'm a New guy here also!

I thank if I were you I would check and make sure you did not get the distributor out of time when you were installing the distributor cap and wires. Also If you have a computer on the truck you should unplug it before you re time the engine. Once you have the engine re timed then you can plug the computer back in. If you time it with the computer plugged in, the computer jacks with the timing as you are trying to adjust the timing.

walkerbo · 09-09-2009, 02:25 PM

Well it turns out that the brand new distributor cap was defective....I decided to do the ol' spray bottle test and sure enough, little green lines inside the distributor cap, which means tiny cracks, also the dist rotor was fouled. Replaced them both(still under warranty hehe) and fired right up.

I had ruled out the distributor cap and all things distributor related because they were new. But decided to check it anyway when everything else checked out fine. Glad I did...father in law was talking about calling the junk yard he was so pissed lol.

Wyley87 · 09-09-2009, 02:30 PM

dose the truck still run rough like before or did replacing those parts fix all of it? im just asking because you said it allways has ran rough

walkerbo · 09-09-2009, 02:51 PM

Runs like a champ now. The distributor was the cause of it running rough all along, we replaced the cap, button etc, and when it didnt fix it we started thinking it was something else. like maybe spider injectors or something like that. Turns out the cap was defective straight out of the factory.

Wyley87 · 09-09-2009, 04:43 PM

well i'll be **** lol well i got one for ya out of the factory. My dad owns a old body 2000 chevy 1 ton 4wd 4dr long bed (i love that truck we call it the limousine lol) Anyway the first thing he dose when he gets it home is get mags and tires. well when we when to wall mart to have them put on they broke 2 lugs off trying to remove the wheel. then they called my dad who told them to brake all of them off if they had to and he brought a new rotor from the dealer and put it on there. they figured out what must have happend is at the factory the guy that puts the lugs of must have a tool that puts all the lugs on at once. the were all gawlded and cross threaded. The dealer warrantied the roter after the fact.

09-07-2009, 12:00 PM	#1
walkerbo Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 5	2000 Chevy S-10 Cranks but wont start Hello, New guy here hehe. My father in laws truck will crank but wont start. We have replaced all the plugs, wires, new dist cap button etc. Changed oil and filter. Well last week his truck was dead, turns out it was the alternator and battery both bad. We replaced them. His truck has always ran rough, and bogs down when you first start it. But after it warms up it would run fine. Well this morning his truck would not start at all. We replaced the ignition module thats inside the distributor. No help, still wont start. We tried pouring fuel into the TB but it wouldnt start, it runs EXTREMELY rough for a second then dies. The fuel pump is priming and you can hear it pumping strongly, we havent tested the fuel pressure yet. I just cant figure out if its the crank sensor,ignition switch(sensor) ECM temperature sensor,EGR valve etc etc. Could it be that the pump IS in fact pumping but just not strong enough? I'm about to pull my hair out please help. Last edited by walkerbo; 09-07-2009 at 12:26 PM. Reason: spelling and forgot EGR

09-09-2009, 02:30 PM	#4
Wyley87 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Arlington, Tx Posts: 663	dose the truck still run rough like before or did replacing those parts fix all of it? im just asking because you said it allways has ran rough __________________ 96 GMC C1500 305 2WD K&N FIPK C.A.I. Rebuilt Motor and Trans Mobil 1 15w50/Mobil 1 Filter 05 Nissan Xterra 4.0 V6 Royal Purple 5w30/Mobil 1 Filter Cost money to go fast...How fast do you wanna go?

09-09-2009, 04:43 PM	#6
Wyley87 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Arlington, Tx Posts: 663	well i'll be **** lol well i got one for ya out of the factory. My dad owns a old body 2000 chevy 1 ton 4wd 4dr long bed (i love that truck we call it the limousine lol) Anyway the first thing he dose when he gets it home is get mags and tires. well when we when to wall mart to have them put on they broke 2 lugs off trying to remove the wheel. then they called my dad who told them to brake all of them off if they had to and he brought a new rotor from the dealer and put it on there. they figured out what must have happend is at the factory the guy that puts the lugs of must have a tool that puts all the lugs on at once. the were all gawlded and cross threaded. The dealer warrantied the roter after the fact. __________________ 96 GMC C1500 305 2WD K&N FIPK C.A.I. Rebuilt Motor and Trans Mobil 1 15w50/Mobil 1 Filter 05 Nissan Xterra 4.0 V6 Royal Purple 5w30/Mobil 1 Filter Cost money to go fast...How fast do you wanna go?

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09-08-2009, 09:35 AM	#2
1939 CV Man Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 1	Hi I'm a New guy here also! I thank if I were you I would check and make sure you did not get the distributor out of time when you were installing the distributor cap and wires. Also If you have a computer on the truck you should unplug it before you re time the engine. Once you have the engine re timed then you can plug the computer back in. If you time it with the computer plugged in, the computer jacks with the timing as you are trying to adjust the timing.

09-09-2009, 02:25 PM	#3
walkerbo Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 5	Well it turns out that the brand new distributor cap was defective....I decided to do the ol' spray bottle test and sure enough, little green lines inside the distributor cap, which means tiny cracks, also the dist rotor was fouled. Replaced them both(still under warranty hehe) and fired right up. I had ruled out the distributor cap and all things distributor related because they were new. But decided to check it anyway when everything else checked out fine. Glad I did...father in law was talking about calling the junk yard he was so pissed lol.

09-09-2009, 02:51 PM	#5
walkerbo Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 5	Runs like a champ now. The distributor was the cause of it running rough all along, we replaced the cap, button etc, and when it didnt fix it we started thinking it was something else. like maybe spider injectors or something like that. Turns out the cap was defective straight out of the factory.