1962 Chevrolet C10 Front drum brakes -> Front Disc brake conversion. - Page 2

64shortbed · 09-28-2009, 10:52 PM

ah one of these days the 64 will get that done too. but for now i already rebuilt all the braks so until they need new one ill run what i got. nice work sofar.

Crmzendrgone · 09-29-2009, 10:11 AM

First you need to raise the front of the vehicle off the ground.

Relieve the tension off the torsion bars by turning them out until the bar is a little wobbly. (of course all this is done after the wheels are off)
Pull the drum off, just so it doesn’t fall off on you.
Then disconnect the tie rod ends from the knuckle.
Undo the upper ball joint nut. . .
Then the back yard mechanic way is pry up on the upper control arm while giving the knuckle some passive vibrations with a BFH. Or if you have the tool and air supply use a pickle fork on the joint. I believe you can even rent just a pickle fork at your near by parts store. NON pneumatic.
Then undo the lower ball joint nut and repeat step 6 on lower of course prying the opposite way and leave the upper's nut on so it won't fall out on you. You might have some trouble doing this do to the age of the vehicle (if those components were never worked on before) of being stubborn. The left side on the truck I am working on was a pain. So be ready to use some real muscle. Might be easer to also pull the upper loose (upper joint out of the knuckle) when trying to break the lower loose.
Then the knuckle comes right out throw the new knuckle on tighten all the nuts.
Now as far as converting the manual brake system to power, we’re in the middle of this process and ran into a hick up cause the booster doesn’t just bolt up seeing as how there are 4 bolt holes on the booster bracket and only two stock hole on the firewall so we are fabricating up a plate to bolt it to. I will give more info as I go. I will put pics up of the power brake issue.

mudseeker · 09-29-2009, 10:23 AM

me like pictures, need more pictures.

BernieB · 09-29-2009, 10:25 AM

I think this thread is going to become a classic on here.

Crmzendrgone · 09-29-2009, 10:40 AM

Hope so working the pics now.

Crmzendrgone · 09-29-2009, 10:44 AM

HERE IS THE HOLES IN THE FIREWALL WHERE THE CLUTCH AND MASTER GO THROUGH. WE KNOCKED OUT THE (CAN YOU BELIEVE IT) FREEZE PLUG A CHEAP RUBBER FREEZE PLUG, OUT OF THE CLUTCH HOLE WHICH MAKES US THINK IT WAS A CLUTCH PREVIOUSLY.

Crmzendrgone · 09-29-2009, 10:49 AM

THE RED ON THE BRACKET IS WERE MY BUDDY ORIGINALLY THOUGHT THAT WE COULD NOTCH IT A LITTLE MORE THEN DRILL NEW HOLE IN THE FIREWALL.

Crmzendrgone · 09-29-2009, 10:52 AM

THIS GOES OUT SPECIAL TO BERNIEB, IT IS ONLY A TEMP WHILE WE ARE WIGGLING THE TUBE AROUND.

Crmzendrgone · 09-29-2009, 10:55 AM

Sorry if the pics are a little large, thought I reduced them small enough. Please excuse the messing shop again, got a lot of honey dues.

BernieB · 09-29-2009, 11:12 AM

LOL! Usually when someone sends me pictures on the 'net they involve scantily clad sweet young things... not old Chevys.

09-28-2009, 10:52 PM	#11
64shortbed Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: scott city ks. Posts: 158	ah one of these days the 64 will get that done too. but for now i already rebuilt all the braks so until they need new one ill run what i got. nice work sofar. __________________ why you always dressed in black you look like your going to a funeral? well maybe i am!!!!!

09-29-2009, 10:11 AM	#12
Crmzendrgone Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 1,420	First you need to raise the front of the vehicle off the ground. Relieve the tension off the torsion bars by turning them out until the bar is a little wobbly. (of course all this is done after the wheels are off) Pull the drum off, just so it doesn’t fall off on you. Then disconnect the tie rod ends from the knuckle. Undo the upper ball joint nut. . . Then the back yard mechanic way is pry up on the upper control arm while giving the knuckle some passive vibrations with a BFH. Or if you have the tool and air supply use a pickle fork on the joint. I believe you can even rent just a pickle fork at your near by parts store. NON pneumatic. Then undo the lower ball joint nut and repeat step 6 on lower of course prying the opposite way and leave the upper's nut on so it won't fall out on you. You might have some trouble doing this do to the age of the vehicle (if those components were never worked on before) of being stubborn. The left side on the truck I am working on was a pain. So be ready to use some real muscle. Might be easer to also pull the upper loose (upper joint out of the knuckle) when trying to break the lower loose. Then the knuckle comes right out throw the new knuckle on tighten all the nuts. Now as far as converting the manual brake system to power, we’re in the middle of this process and ran into a hick up cause the booster doesn’t just bolt up seeing as how there are 4 bolt holes on the booster bracket and only two stock hole on the firewall so we are fabricating up a plate to bolt it to. I will give more info as I go. I will put pics up of the power brake issue. __________________ ENGINES PRODUCE POWER. MOTORS RECEIVE POWER. https://lastroundbestround.com/Home_Page.html

09-29-2009, 10:23 AM	#13
mudseeker Senior Moderator Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: michigan Posts: 6,374	me like pictures, need more pictures. __________________ i'd rather be hunting

09-29-2009, 10:25 AM	#14
BernieB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Fredericksburg, VA Posts: 1,901	I think this thread is going to become a classic on here. __________________ If the guys who design 'em had to take one home, use it every day for 2 years, and do all the maint and repairs themselves, cars would have a button on the dash to change the oil, filters & plugs.

09-29-2009, 10:40 AM	#15
Crmzendrgone Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 1,420	Hope so working the pics now. __________________ ENGINES PRODUCE POWER. MOTORS RECEIVE POWER. https://lastroundbestround.com/Home_Page.html

09-29-2009, 10:44 AM	#16
Crmzendrgone Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 1,420	This is the original master cylinder. Just thought it needed some star time. haha HERE IS THE HOLES IN THE FIREWALL WHERE THE CLUTCH AND MASTER GO THROUGH. WE KNOCKED OUT THE (CAN YOU BELIEVE IT) FREEZE PLUG A CHEAP RUBBER FREEZE PLUG, OUT OF THE CLUTCH HOLE WHICH MAKES US THINK IT WAS A CLUTCH PREVIOUSLY. __________________ ENGINES PRODUCE POWER. MOTORS RECEIVE POWER. https://lastroundbestround.com/Home_Page.html

09-29-2009, 10:49 AM	#17
Crmzendrgone Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 1,420	Here is the new master and booster(notice the hat in the background) THE RED ON THE BRACKET IS WERE MY BUDDY ORIGINALLY THOUGHT THAT WE COULD NOTCH IT A LITTLE MORE THEN DRILL NEW HOLE IN THE FIREWALL. __________________ ENGINES PRODUCE POWER. MOTORS RECEIVE POWER. https://lastroundbestround.com/Home_Page.html

09-29-2009, 10:52 AM	#18
Crmzendrgone Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 1,420	This is the brand that the brake kit was pruchased from. THIS GOES OUT SPECIAL TO BERNIEB, IT IS ONLY A TEMP WHILE WE ARE WIGGLING THE TUBE AROUND. __________________ ENGINES PRODUCE POWER. MOTORS RECEIVE POWER. https://lastroundbestround.com/Home_Page.html

09-29-2009, 10:55 AM	#19
Crmzendrgone Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 1,420	Sorry if the pics are a little large, thought I reduced them small enough. Please excuse the messing shop again, got a lot of honey dues. __________________ ENGINES PRODUCE POWER. MOTORS RECEIVE POWER. https://lastroundbestround.com/Home_Page.html

09-29-2009, 11:12 AM	#20
BernieB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Fredericksburg, VA Posts: 1,901	LOL! Usually when someone sends me pictures on the 'net they involve scantily clad sweet young things... not old Chevys. __________________ If the guys who design 'em had to take one home, use it every day for 2 years, and do all the maint and repairs themselves, cars would have a button on the dash to change the oil, filters & plugs.

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