If you HAD to cut a frame

[1500cheyenne96]

Ok One other thing i heard is that when you weld the fish plate it's supposed to be a pentagon? don't suppose you can confirm or deny that? Also i have read that on those frames the load point on them is about 3 in. behind the cab just before the front bed mount i don't know if that is 100% accurate the net is full of bad info but would that have any effect on the strength after the deal is done?

[bubbatrucklover]

Originally Posted by mrjohnwayne

while bubba does bring up a good point I don't believe you will have to worry about that.

If done correctly it will be just as strong if not stronger than the stock frame.

Depending on what that frame is made out of (tensile strength) it should not be to complicated to do. being a half ton I would not think that it has a high tensile strength steel frame, which means you really wouldn't have to take any precautions before and after welding like pre heating or stress relieving etc... actual location (IMO) would be best if you do it in front of the front spring mount. Make a z notch when you cut it instead of a straight cut, and use a fish plate on the inside of the frame after welding to add extra strength.

I'm not on my home computer but I have a link that can give you pictures of what I mean.

.

I agree 1,000% people do it and strength I wouldn't think would be a problem. I think I just watched a hot rod show where they did the Z notch and welded as you described. I think they stretched a frame back into shape too once.

I also in no way am a legal expert. I just wanted to point out a tid bit of information I learned today for him to keep in mind that different insurance companies have different clauses that cancels coverage over stupid shiz.

In my case I could have gone a year,two years whatever and "IF" something happened wreck wise I would have been SOLEY responsible over 3" in cheyenne's case if he's not a "certified welder" they could use that against him.

I don't know how many people are uneducated in the ways of insurance companies like me, I just want people to be mindful that over the years they have changed things so that guys like us that have or do our own mods need to watch out when we get coverage and double check our policies to cover our backsides.

In the good ol' days it was your DMV record and your age.

[BernieB]

Originally Posted by vansdonk

C4 works well.

Det cord works even better.

[BernieB]

Years ago, my Dad owned a 1969 Mercury Marquis wagon. We found it in a friend's garage in 1985 with only 300 miles on it. He'd bought it for his wife, she hated it, they stuck it in the garage and left it there for 15 years. We got it for $700

(429 Cobra under the hood too!)

Anyway, make a long story short, it got hit in the rear one night and the frame was badly cracked, right at the top of the arc on the drivers side over the axle. An actual "chunk" of the frame was missing there.

I ended up taking it to a place I know in Massachusetts where they build armored trucks. It cost me $40 and a case of beer, but when the guy was done I had two slabs of 3/4" armor plate welded on either side of that section of frame, and extending a good 16" beyond in both directions. The car ran great for years after that.

[hotrodpc]

^^^^^Toadja a Tweeker that would know would be by. ^^^^^. Good Points too Bubba. Just an FYI. Here is a statement I read today on a site dedicted to 73-87 Chevy and GMC's in the frame specifications link where I was looking to find info on Suburban Frame and C/K Pick up frame differances. Not even sure it applies to a 96 model, and don't know enough about metal to even know the tensile strength of these frames, so for what its worth, here is the statement:

Chevrolet used 39,000 PSI Carbon Steel to make all 10, 20, & 30series frames.

[mrjohnwayne]

If it is still just a carbon steel frame you are good to go. Usually don't get into high tensile strength until you get into alloy metals.

Here is the link

PIC 21

pictures 21, 22, and 23 are what I was referring to.

as far as the main load point that might be correct. I'm not sure... It might just be better to chop the frame in the middle of the spring perch and add the new one one, but IMO that would seem like a higher stress point than in front of the front perch...

[hotrodpc]

Originally Posted by mrjohnwayne

If it is still just a carbon steel frame you are good to go. Usually don't get into high tensile strength until you get into alloy metals.

Here is the link

PIC 21

pictures 21, 22, and 23 are what I was referring to.

as far as the main load point that might be correct. I'm not sure... It might just be better to chop the frame in the middle of the spring perch and add the new one one, but IMO that would seem like a higher stress point than in front of the front perch...

Awesome stuff !!! What I'd give to be able to do something like that !!! I can do alot of things, but that just isn't my niche, as much as I wished it was.

[jsarmiento]

i see both sides of this arguement. the insurance one is more compelling and more money. if you do get in an accident they will definetly pawn it off on you and who knows how much that could end up costing... if it were me i would scrap both of these frames. it sounds like you will not need the truck that is running for awhile. if that is the case you can completly strip it of everything useful. take them to a steel scrap yard. this does pain me to say this about a chevy but safety is far more important. i would go down to pick n pull and get a frame from them. or on craigslist people tell you to take these out of their yard all of the time or sell them for minimal cost.

[1500cheyenne96]

Well after reading through and thanks to everyone for chiming in i will defiantly get a friend who is a certified welder to weld the pieces together after seeing what Mr. john wayne posted i think its worth a shot and if it don't work I'll just gut the truck find a good frame and start a frame off resto on it. I do agree with some of what bubba is saying and I'll look into my insurance companies policy a little deeper. And not to worry when i start there will be pics for y'all Thanks again everyone Jeremy

[Hayden]

Cut it, Weld it and Reinforce it. It's the American way and it's been done for as long as there where automobiles on the roads. If I did it though I would cut a length off the inside of the frame too and weld it on the inside as well as the outside. You can even put some flat bar on the inside for extra reinforcement then weld the hole back up. grind it flat and slap some undercoating on it. a 7018 rod at around a 100 amps should get ya back on the road.