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Thread: Question about removing transmission from 1990 Silverado c1500

  1. #1
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    Question about removing transmission from 1990 Silverado c1500

    I am removing the transmission from my truck. When everything is ready and I have the transmission supported by the jack, cross member removed, etc, can I just pull the tranny back and drop it, or does the engine have to be supported independently by a hoist or jack? I wanted to hear from some of you that have done it.

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    I have always just left it leaning back a little unless the trans is out for a long time or i need to do work on the topside back of the engine like distributor but as long as your engine mounts are fine shouldnt be an issue
    92 Chevy W/T 4x4 V6 32x11.50 Procomps (daily driver)
    97 Gmc Yukon 4x4 5.7 new project
    97 Chevy Suburban 4x4 5.7 old project

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    Thanks. I assume the mounts are fine, but I will look at them.

    I wanted to double check with people that have done it because I saw something from the Chevy manual that says to "support the engine with a jack or hoist before disconnecting the transmission." I'm not sure where to put a jack to hold the engine, and I don't have either a hoist or a second jack right now anyway.

    Dave

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    Senior Member Oldmech's Avatar
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    The mounts should hold the engine, but it will tilt down. If the mounts are weak you may end up breaking your dist cap. If the mounts are good, the cap should still be one half to one inch from the firewall when the engine is hanging (with no trans on it.) Letting the full weight of the transmission pull the engine down in the back will assuredly cause breakage.
    If you can support the engine, a simple block under the oil pan will do, it will be easier to line the trans back up when you put it back in. Allow the engine a little room to tilt before it comes to rest on the blocks, it makes getting the top bellhousing bolts out easier.
    There is not much weight and will not crush your oil pan if you use a wide block. When you put the trans back in, find a pair of 3/8 bolts about five or six inches long. Cut the heads off, and file a slot in them for a screwdriver, screw those into the lower holes of your engine bellhousing, now, you can simply slide the trans on the bolts, and slide it up into place, put the top four bolts in, and unscrew the alignment bolts, replace them with the original bolts... makes aligning the trans and getting it on the dowels SO easy that its silly, and sure beats wigling prying and swearing.

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    Thanks Oldmech. I will do exactly as you suggest, and thanks for the tip about the alignment bolts. I reserve the right to swear just a little bit even with the alignment bolts, but they sound like they will help a lot. This the first auto-transmission I have pulled -- all manual trannys in the past. These kinds of tips really help.

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    Senior Member Oldmech's Avatar
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    Ahhh, first one? Your in for a treat then, being a 2wd its pretty easy to do, you wont have any problems.
    Take the three bolts out of the flywheel/converter and take the converter off with the trans. You may already know this, I'm just making sure, I have replaced quite a few front pump seals from fellas who wanted to save a wee bit of time

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    Senior Member gmctrucks's Avatar
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    Replace your rear main seal now that your there also check for cracks around where the flex plate bolts up.
    http://i961.photobucket.com/albums/ae98/falken86/dadnew-1.jpg

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    Oldmech -- I did now that the converter stayed with the tranny, but thanks for making sure. I know that GM has a "J21366 Converter Holding Strap" tool, that they call out installing after you pull the tranny back so it sounds like the converter is kind of just sitting there and vulnerable to coming out if you are not careful.

    gmctrucks -- Will do. Thanks for the info. The flex plate bolts to the flywheel and the torque converter bolts to the flex plate?

  9. #9
    Senior Member 87c10slammer's Avatar
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    yeah thats one thing you wanna make sure of when you put the tranny back in.. you should hear 2 clicks when you put the TC back in the trans. it helps if you spin the cnverter while pushing it in.

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    87c10 slammer -- I am not sure this applies to me. I have a re-manufactured transmission including the torque converter so I will not be putting the torque converter back in the transmission because it is already there, right?

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