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Thread: How do I clean a distributor

  1. #1
    Senior Member myteemyk's Avatar
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    How do I clean a distributor

    Does anyone have a suggestion or recommendation on how to clean the gunk from inside the dizzy. Is there a good solvent or something to use. I'm not about to just spray anything in there. I ordered an advance curve kit with weights, springs, bushings, and also an adjustable VAC. No sense in putting new parts in and not doing a good cleaning. And do I need to remove/replace the module or anything else when cleaning?

  2. #2
    Senior Member gmctrucks's Avatar
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    What about some electrical cleaner and degreaser from your local auto parts store. Come on guys help a brother out.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member zombie1969's Avatar
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    Compressed air works good...Before doing all the work to it check the pins the weights swing on for wear.If its worn dont wast your time and get a new dizzy.
    Sent using Boost mobile 4g htc evo.

  4. #4
    Senior Member myteemyk's Avatar
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    This may sound ignorant on my part, but aren't the bushings slid over the pins? Or am I talking peas & carrots. I thought it was the bushings that wore down and sometimes grooved up the pins. Is that what your'e telling me. Haha. I'm a tourist gettin to know the lay of the land. Sorry. Are the pins replacable or are they fixed which is why a new dizzy would be needed?

  5. #5
    Senior Member zombie1969's Avatar
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    Ya Ive had them with the teflon over the pins and without.When there worn I just get a new one because its usualy cheeper than getting all the parts needed and rebuilding it.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member myteemyk's Avatar
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    YA, I'm starting to see that. Trying to keep the wifey happy, but when ya add up all the parts.... Now, I had a new intake put in last summer, so if I pull the dizzy, am I gonna need a new seal or should I just get one to have in case. I've never pulled a distrbtr out and don't know what kind of gasket/seal is used and if they're prone to tearing or anything or if it's just a plain rubber o-ring type.
    I've also read that there's not really a need for hi-perfm modules or anything, but to get a good GM type with some kind of internal circuitry that blocks out cross-firing/flashing. I see that Napa has them for $23, and the coils @ $63. Does this sound bout right? Not building an asphalt melter, just a healthy, grandpa lookin truck (profile pic)
    Last edited by myteemyk; 04-15-2011 at 08:21 AM. Reason: adding to.

  7. #7
    Senior Member myteemyk's Avatar
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    Can anyone tell me what that plug resting next to the throttle bracket is? It goes into the harness behind engine at firewall. It's a single green wire with that rubber connector on it. It's all plugged/gunked up with dirt and grime. It's never been hooked up since I've had the truck. It's always been tucked away on top of tranny????? Oh, its the round plug between the bracket and valve cover @ back. Just wonderin.

  8. #8
    Senior Member zombie1969's Avatar
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    Green should be for the temp sender.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member myteemyk's Avatar
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    That's what I thought too, but it's way too short and there's also another green wire coming out of the harness that I splice a new section of wire to the temp sender. It's got a funny rubber plug on it and looks as though it only reaches to back side of engine or top of tranny. Can't figure out where it would have been plugged into. The truck did have cruise at one time but is no longer there.
    It could be black wire and worn and just looks drk green. It's been just laying along top of tranny since I bought truck.

  10. #10
    Senior Member zombie1969's Avatar
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    Might just be discolored and was blue at one time so if thats the case oil send unit.
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