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Thread: PG 250 Starter Issues

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    PG 250 Starter Issues

    Hello once again.

    I am learning to love this place, not so much the reasons that bring me here, but the knowledge base is great, hearing from professionals and hobby enthusiasts alike...

    My truck.... ahem, got to clear my throat and give my head a shake when I think of the things I have been going through, but anyway, moving in a forward and progressive direction...

    The GMPP ZZ4 350 Turn Key crate engine came with some accessories already attached, starter included, I believe it is a PG 250, 9 tooth, 1.4 Kw, bolt pattern - Off-Set ( One Longer and One Shorter) not as I have heard described as "Staggered", although, I have seen that pattern, this is NOT that pattern, it is "Off-Set, as in, one is closer to the block and the other is further away, (Different Planes).

    I Did include a few pics >>>
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/glazier_man_2010/?saved=1

    I have heard talk of a PG 260 being an "Up-Grade" a "Mini-starter" from the 250, less suseptable to "Heat Soak", also mentioned in convo, was bolt lenth was not compatible, but "Bolt-Kit" is available, also, any issues with Bolt Pitch, i.e., metric vs. american.

    Fly-wheel, well, let's not get confused, Flex-plate (Automatic Trannys) mine has 153 teeth, (Not 168) matched up to the 9 tooth of the starter bendix...
    Should I not be looking for a starter with 9 tooth, not 11 tooth? and as far as Kw rating is concerned, an engine with 10:1 compression should have a 1.4 Kw starter, not the 1.8 Kw rating for a 12:1 compression engine... I mean like, more power means better starting right ...

    My own fault, I left the lights on one day, drained battery, had to get jump start at end of day, got home ok, started next day no problem, but by end of day, battery dead again, another jump start, another morning, jump start, until I realized dead cell in battery, bought a new one, worked great, but started to have a starter issue, would not turn over at all, would jump it at starter terminals for a sec just to turn engine slightly, jump back in and turn key would fire right up, this process eventually stopped working to the point where I have removed the starter from the vehicle and am purchasing a new starter, or should I get the old one rebuilt to the PG 250 spec again, or buy the PG 260 or whatever PowerMaster's offerings are, I want to stay away from "Import" starters, as I have heard they are "Cheap" in more ways than one...

    Thanks any input is greatly appreciated,

    Happy Memorial Day
    Last edited by SmokeShow01; 05-23-2011 at 01:24 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member 87c10slammer's Avatar
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    i read your bench test starter thread and didnt understand what was going on so ill reply hear. just an fyi try to keep related posts together so people understand whats going on.. with that said..

    it sounds like you may have a problem with your main power wire, your ignition wire or all that jumping fried the starter. even though the bench test worked its not under load so thats doesnt rule it out completely. see what happens when you hook a jumper wire off the battery to the small starter wire end. if it works fine when you give it power directly from the battery then you probley have an ignition wire problem. if that doesnt work then replace your main power wire going from the battery or fuze box to the starter. jumping a vehicle heats them up pretty good and if it was already corroded it eventually puts a dead short in the wire. it may look fine and still see 12 volts at the starter end but it cant send enough juice through it.

    what does it do exactly when you have problems.. does the starter make any noises when you try to start it.. one click... multiple clicks or nothing at all each means a different problem.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87c10slammer View Post
    what does it do exactly when you have problems.. does the starter make any noises when you try to start it.. one click... multiple clicks or nothing at all each means a different problem.
    Yes, it does nothing at all at the key. Jumpering the starter at the solenoid works on the bench test and installed in the vehicle under load, i.e, turning over the engine.

    It was a weird experience...after the initial bench test, I reinstalled the starter thinking it was working, hooked everything up, jumped it at the starter, turned over once, then dead again... I am scratching my head, this time I thought for sure the starter was fried, removed it again, bench test again, nope, starter is working fine...I am getting a little frustrated...while I was doing the bench test for a second time, I realized that the Positive Post on the Solenoid was moving, not much, but a little jiggly, there was only one nut on the post, I tightened it, now I needed another nut to hold the connections to the post, I also noticed the batter cable end was not really compatible with the starter mounting point, it was specially shaped to go onto a different type of starter, anyways, I figured out a solution and reinstalled the starter...
    With my issue with the key start, I rigged up a temporary wire (2 wires) (Red Neck Solution) to the starter and was using them to start the vehicle...
    Once the starter was installed again, I crossed my fingers and crossed the wires, vroom, vrrooooommmm....vrrrrrooooooommmmmmm.....
    Started up like a champ, infact, I turned off the truck, and turned the key, and it started no problem...

    I am thinking now it was mostly a connectivity issue at the starters positive post.

    I also installed a more permanent solution for my key bypass, I have installed a push-button start switch on the dash board, thinking to myself, any future issues that might come up in the ignition, might be bypassed quickly with the push of a button instead of all of the drama I went through, including going to the local auto parts store to purchase a new starter, which I brought back already...

    Ok, well thanks for the interest.

    Take care, happy motoring Slammer.

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