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Thread: 1986 chevy silverado choke stuck

  1. #1
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    1986 chevy silverado choke stuck

    choke light stays on. choke stays on like its cold. even with plate fully open choke is on full blast . idles high smells rich. engine lopes . have to kill it then tap gas pedal to turn off. then backfire. anybodys help appreciated ,thank you

  2. #2
    Senior Member Oldmech's Avatar
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    even with plate fully open choke is on full blast

    Kind of lost me on that... the plate, or butterfly on the top of the carb is the choke.. if its open, the choke isnt on... if its not opening, you can open it manually, put a screwdriver or something large enough that it wont go down the bore to hold it open and start it to see how it runs... I imagine its an electric choke... does it have power with the key in the run position? When the engine starts, vacuum is supposed to crack it open just slightly.. then the electric coil gets hot from the supplied power and slowly opens the choke as it gets warmer... does the choke plate move freely by hand?

    If, as you said, the choke plate is fully open, and its still running that rich, then your float is stuck causing it to run rich/flood...

  3. #3
    Senior Member formulabruce's Avatar
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    That has an ele choke, unplug it after truck is warmed up. sounds like its shorted causing the choke light to come on.
    Cliff Ruggles has excellent well made ele choke units. Google cliffs high performance
    85 K2500, 94 K2500 LD, 04 2500 HD

  4. #4
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    Unplugging the electric choke won't change anything if the plates are open, if you do unplugged then the choke won't open wouldn't it? I am with oldmech stuck float or something in the carb making it run rich and flood out, also if it still idles high could need adjustment on the high idle.
    1994 white ext cab chevy silverado 5.7 rolling 230k miles
    stock with air filter lid flipped,
    open flowing exhaust to a 40 series flowmaster dumped.
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  5. #5
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    ok plate wasnt "fully "open it was at like 5-10 degrees . open plate is verticle now. started poken my finger around in there and found linkage was binding. so i pushed lever down with my finger,plate goes verticle, , fixed it. but as soon as i hit the gas its stuck again. sprayed wd -40 and carb cleaner still stuck. so for now i just wedged something in there keeping choke from coming on at all . so now it idles normal. choke light still on. tapping gas pedal doesnt disengage choke

  6. #6
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    ya plate starts as you said but doesnt open completly. it does move freelly and when i hold it open while its rrunning didnt seam to do anything. until i pushed this lever down causing plate to open completly and im talkin 5-10 degrees to verticle. just that lil bit choke goes from full blast to off. is that normal?

  7. #7
    Senior Member chengny's Avatar
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    If the dash "choke" indicator is illuminated while the engine is running, you may have low oil pressure - shut down and investigate.

    Do you have an oil pressure gauge? What does it read?

    The power to the electric choke pull is supplied/switched through one of the oil pressure switches. There should be 2 oil pressure senders under/behind the distributor:



    The one with two connections is the one that supplies power to the choke.

    When the engine starts and sufficient is oil pressure developed, (about 10 psi) the contacts within that switch close and supply full battery voltage to the choke heater coil.

    This tells the choke that the engine has started and it's time to open the butterfly.

    See this link (post #43) and the attached pdf's:


    86 Suburban failed emissions with high NOx


    Also, make sure that there is no gasket between the choke heater housing/carb body and that the cover is tight. That is the ground path.
    Last edited by chengny; 03-09-2012 at 08:34 PM.
    1986 Sierra Classic
    Lost it in a fire

    Replaced with 1986 Sierra K3500 single axle

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