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Thread: Puzzling heating issue on 05 Silverado

  1. #21
    Forum Moderator Boudin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJohnE View Post
    You bring up a point. The AC has been cycling on and off for a while now, no matter the setting on the controls. I disconnected the switch on the drier to shut it off. Maybe it is the reset that needs to be done. I will do that now. Only question is, why is there not good flow through the heater core? If it is the reset, it couldnt prevent flow could it? I want to do the reset, but in one post you had the steps of removing the fuse. Now you are saying disconnect the battery. Which one should I do?
    As far as the reset...either the fuse or the battery terminal is fine. The fuse will just limit it to the circuit that it is attached to. The battery terminal will reset everything on the truck....from the clock to the system here. I would just do the battery terminal method to be sure all is reset.

    It doesn't explain the lack of flow through heater core. You still need to properly flush and back flush the system or at least look for blockages. This electrical stuff will not deal with the lack of flow through heater core. Need to do your best to ensure no air pockets and make sure that if you have any....they are removed.

  2. #22
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    SOLVED~

    OK,
    I eliminated blockages thru the whole system, so I finally broke down and replaced the only moving part in the system- the water pump. Got a new thermostat as well and button everything up. Hottest air since the truck was new. I will now return the new water pump that I bought a month ago. It must have been defective. Thanks everyone for the help! I enjoy the site! BTW, here's the truck.Name:  trucklift.jpg
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  3. #23
    Senior Member cjpayne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJohnE View Post
    .Name:  trucklift.jpg
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    That is a VERY nice looking truck.
    When I replaced a waterpump one time, the welds broke loose on the pully fixture. I will NEVER EVER knowingly put cheap china parts on my vehicle's again. Congrats on problem solved.
    '94 K1500 Suburban 4x4

  4. #24
    Forum Moderator Boudin's Avatar
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    In looking back on what could have been done here to correctly identify the water pump as the issue....what do y'all think would have been the way to do it from a diagnostic standpoint? Given the details of this issue...it seems like maybe a cooling system pressure test would possibly have been helpful. It would have been able to determine if the water pump was producing enough flow. The next question is what would be the correct specification for the water pump on this motor?

    There seems to to me like there should be some way to accurately do this without throwing parts at it. It proved to be the fix here.....and made the hassle of installing another water pump not as bad....but I can imagine that I would have been mad to have gone through the hassle only to have it fix nothing.

    What do y'all think?

  5. #25
    Forum Moderator Boudin's Avatar
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    I'm kinda scratching my head on this one. It was always my understanding that a cooling system pressure test was to determine where a leak is occurring. As far as the water pump....it also is my understanding that if it is going bad....it will present itself the same way that the water pump did on this truck originally about a month ago....with the telltale coolant out the "weep" hole of the water pump.

    Anything about the the water pump that was less than a month old that was replaced to solve the problem would be useful here. Was it something internal to the pump? Is there a chance it was the wrong one?....or maybe the belt was slipping on the pulley? Just brainstorming here to try and figure out how someone would identify the pump as being bad in a situation like this.

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    I tried to bench test the waterpump when I took it off the best I could. By bench test, I tried to bind up the impeller, which I could. This means the impeller was turning. Since most of these pumps are made in China, I figure maybe they put the impeller on backwards? Who knows? All I know is it works great now. Thanks again for all the help.

  7. #27
    Forum Moderator Boudin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJohnE View Post
    I tried to bench test the waterpump when I took it off the best I could. By bench test, I tried to bind up the impeller, which I could. This means the impeller was turning. Since most of these pumps are made in China, I figure maybe they put the impeller on backwards? Who knows? All I know is it works great now. Thanks again for all the help.
    What exactly do you mean? I'm not following what you said. How did you manage to bind up the impeller? Was it installed backwards? Help me understand what you saw.

    Please understand that I am just trying to come up with an idea or learn what could have been done diagnostically to determine that the water pump is to blame in a situation like yours that doesn't involve removing the water pump and just getting a new one without knowing it is to blame. Like I said, I'm glad you got your truck fixed and I am glad that you ended up solving the problem by just replacing the water pump. All I am trying to do is figure out what (if anything) could have been done in your case other than throwing a part at the problem and hoping it fixes it. That's all. I'm simply trying to determine what would be the best way to determine what would have been the best way to diagnostically determine that your pump was to blame given none of the usual signs weren't there (leaking out weep hole, unusual noises, belt slipping, etc). From what I can tell....the pump wasn't able to flow enough coolant to provide enough flow to support the engine and flow through the heater core. Obviously, it was the pump that was bad....but knowing what was wrong with it would maybe help with coming up with a way to check for it in the future for someone else. If whatever was wrong with the pump that was causing it to not flow enough isn't know....I'm just trying to think of a way that could test for this without just blindly going through the hassle of changing the water pump just hoping that it solves the problem like you did here. I don't mean any disrespect, but you did end up throwing a part at the problem....and I am happy it worked out for you. I'm just trying to learn from this and maybe come up with a way (or have someone educate me of a way) that could have been done to determine that the water pump was bad before hand instead of after the fact.

    Just thought it it might be useful. Anything you can mention would certainly help given you were the one who dealt with this problem. I hope that is a little clearer as to what I am attempting to do here.

  8. #28
    Forum Moderator Boudin's Avatar
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    I came across this after a pretty lengthy search.....

    Gauging coolant flow to determine water pump condition can be done by measuring the actual pressure on one of the heater hoses (at 2500 rpm) while deadheading the other. Look for 10 to 15 psi.

    Anyone ever tried it?

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    I guess you could say that I "threw a part at the problem", but only after I eliminated everything else. It was not my first attempt. I verified flow throughout the entire system. Verified there were no blockages anywhere, and the symptoms still pointed to low or no flow. Has to be the pump! By bench testing, I mean I was able to verify the impeller was NOT slipping on the shaft, so my conclusion was that the impeller (sealed, cant see it) was installed backwards, or there was a port not drilled properly. Also, I DID change the thermostat as well, so it could have been a combination of both. Although by design, a faulty thermostat should not affect flow into the heater core. And the truck did not overheat. So, this was fixed using process of elimination, not just random part changing. I don't take offense to your suggestion at all, I am just trying to clarify.

  10. #30
    Forum Moderator Boudin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJohnE View Post
    I guess you could say that I "threw a part at the problem", but only after I eliminated everything else. It was not my first attempt. I verified flow throughout the entire system. Verified there were no blockages anywhere, and the symptoms still pointed to low or no flow. Has to be the pump! By bench testing, I mean I was able to verify the impeller was NOT slipping on the shaft, so my conclusion was that the impeller (sealed, cant see it) was installed backwards, or there was a port not drilled properly. Also, I DID change the thermostat as well, so it could have been a combination of both. Although by design, a faulty thermostat should not affect flow into the heater core. And the truck did not overheat. So, this was fixed using process of elimination, not just random part changing. I don't take offense to your suggestion at all, I am just trying to clarify.
    Thanks for taking the time to clarify and summarize the things that you did and the thinking behind successfully getting your problem fixed. I am not sure why anyone would think you just randomly threw parts at the problem. It was pretty clear to me, at least, that as you tried to diagnose the cause here that you definitely took an approach that wasn't in any way random. You used deductive reasoning to conclude what wasn't the cause, but then switched to inductive reasoning when concluding it was the water pump. Deductive reasoning results in a specific, logical conclusion through direct evidence. An example in your case was concluding the heater core was not completely blocked because you confirmed flow both in an out. Inductive reasoning to make conclusions has the drawback of the conclusion potentially being false. In your case, that didn't prove to be the case, thankfully, and you successfully fixed your problem. Me saying that you threw a part at the problem was only said because of the inductive reasoning you used and the major drawback I just mentioned. I certainly didn't mean to insinuate it was either right nor wrong....or that you even had a choice in the matter but to throw a water pump at it since I am unaware of anything that would have allowed you to use deductive reasoning instead of the inductive reasoning you used. That is all I am trying to do at this point. That is try and figure out if there is some way one could have done something to conclude it was the water pump and have direct evidence to support that as the cause rather than indirect evidence that it might be the cause.

    You mentioned you don't take offense....and that is great to hear. However, I'm still left wondering if you have mistaken what I have said or am trying to accomplish here. I would have probably done this the exact same way.....but I don't understand why trying to come up with a way that would have allowed a conclusion based on direct evidence is being met with clarifications on what was done and defending the methodology.

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