battery problem

[72'CaminoKid]

my 99' suburban has a brand new battery, maybe in a month, i went to get in and crank it up this mornin to go to church, and nuthing at all, not even an attempt to turn over, i kept the key in the ignition, and opened the door, and it was struggling to make the steady high-pitch open door tone. couldnt get any lights to come on, not even radio back light displays. i'm 99% sure i didnt leave anything on i got home last night. i dont think it's an alternator problem, because i did quite a bit of drivin yesterday, not steady, but turnin car on and off. and i got no signs of a weak battery or anything. i think if my alternator was goin bad, i would of gotten some signs. also, when i stopped tryin to crank it this mornin, i could hear a steady click/pop noise from inside the car, couldnt tell exactly where. sounded like either the steering column or where all the radio /AC/heat stuff is. i'm thinkin that was something tryin to engage or turn on, drawing power from the battery. if so, thats what killed it over night. has anyone else had this type of problem or know of anything on my year model, or clolse, that has a tendancy to draw power when not supposed to. sorry for the long post, tryin to give all info possible

[92BlueZ71]

well first of all if you havent tried to charge the battery and see if that fixed it i would start there. next, a friend of mine has a 95 3/4 ton and it had an electrical problem but his was completely dead, no signs of any power at all, anyway there is an electrical box at the firewall on the drivers side, pop the lid off and it has some wires that tighten down, see if they are all tightened down good and see if that helps you out any.

[72'CaminoKid]

i had to recharge the battery to help further diagnose the problem..... we think it's somethin in the CD player drainin the power. we dicided that's what was makin the noise. we took out the fuse for it, and seems to have fixed the problem, only problem now is, i have no radio or clock. so i've still got to figure out a fix for it. any1 had this problem, or got any ideas? help would be greatly appreciated

[gmtech]

Yeh I have had alot of radios drawing down the batteries we at the dealer just send them out for repairs. Another common problem on those suburbans is if you have rear heat/a/c that the blower stays on they use individual relays for each speeds so if that is the problem you have to see which speed it was left one and replace that relay.

[72'CaminoKid]

havent checked the rear heat yet....... but i will, as for the radio, how much that cost? ball park? and speakin of AC, mine doesnt work, we've recharged the freeon a few times, and it'll work for a few days before it's all gone, pretty sure it's leakin somewhere. but last recharge we put in some of the flourscent stuff, and when AC went out (within a week) we pulled out the black light, and couldnt find the leak. yes, i do have the rear AC, do you know if there's a common leak anywehre in the system, somewhere that i probably wouldt be able to see? thanks yall

[gmtech]

Not realy sure on price of the radio my best guess would be 150-200 and alot of times they do exchange units you give them one for repair and they will just send a replacement. As far as the a/c leak the compressor is the #1 concern but you should be able to see it and if its not the compressor it could be wher the a/c lines run down the passenger side of the vehicle if you have running boards sometimes the brackets rub through the lines usualy the back most brackets.

[72'CaminoKid]

i'm gonna check that..... esp since i got t-boned on the passenger side. but the AC was wierd before that happened. so it could be the brackets. thanks for your help buddy

[bugnutz]

I described the problem in my thread. Check it out...

Current Draw - 1998 Chevy Tahoe

[72'CaminoKid]

it turned out to be a one time deal with me...i actaully think i replaced the battery though, bc it wasnt startin to go bad on me. but i'm not 100% sure if that was before or after the radio incident. either way, it aint happened since then. some times ( with chevy's at least) you can actually pull the key out and the car not be completely off, may have been what happened to me. i've actually done it before in a work van. got in later and cranked it without the key, bc the ignition never locked in place when "turning it off"

[Deltadog]

Take your positive cable lose and hook a test light from the positive cable and the touch the other end to the positive terminal but first close all doors and remove the hood light if the light comes on it means that you have an open circut . have someone pull fusses until the light goes out this will tell you what circut is open and will help eliminate no probhlems