Regular or Synthetic Oil??

[chevyguy]

I always try to use a tubing cutter and open them up and see what i have goung on inside my motors. Its a Good practice.

[bradrhale]

ive never heard that about fram filters before. ive always heard good things about them and thats what ive used. thanks for the headsup. i dont think that the filter in my wifes car would hurt with it being a fram. it is one of those small high dollar in the block filters. nothing there but a piece of plastic and that paper filter. i reckon that would be ok. did it say anything about those?? non canister type filters.

[chevyguy]

No. But i am a sceptic. i dont believe anything until i can prove it myself. Thats why I (a dedicated from user for a long time) took it upon myself to find out. Also the filter material is not as well manufactured as some of the other filters. Fewer pleats and less overall surface area. i encourage you to investigate yourself, Dont take my word for it and make your own well educated decision.

[bradrhale]

i aint never found nothing bad in her car, but it did just roll over 50k also. i dont know ifother people like mobil one or napa would have that style. i know gm would have one just because but that little son of a gun from fram already costs 9 or 10 dollars. scared to think what a more expensive one would costs.
i have also been very curious about those high dollar, cleanable filters. one for my clevland sales for 200 if i remember right. it says on the net that it has a higher micron filtration that all these disposable canister style filters but i dont want to spend that much money to find out that it is not as easy as what they say it is to clean it or that it starts to clog up after three or four times being cleaned. but the higher filtration is what caught my attention. alot of people have said that is what they use on these higher performance engines because they can withstand more oil pressure than any of these that you can buy at the store and that they can be taken apart to investigate what is flowing through your engine without wasting that filter with a can opener.

[Larry O'Daniel]

dino vs synthetic stuff: police departments have switched, taxis have switched, cities have switched, and the airplane industry switched a LONG time ago. Its kinda like our rebellion against fuel injection, we like the simplicity of the carb and understand it after all these years, so we rebel against the fuel injection.
The crud in the oil is from the gas soaking the rings and getting in the oil and breaking it down. Everytime you jump on the carb it floods the cylinders with gas and the tires light up, but the side effect is gas getting in the oil. Or how many of us like to blip the throttle to hear the pipes JUST before we turn off the ignition, where does that little bit of gas go that is pulled in the motor while it spins down with NO spark? Synthetic does not break down the same as dino oil thus it can go the longer distance.
3k vs 10K (or longer) don't want "all that crud" spinning around in your motor? Change your filter only at 3k and replace what is lost in the oil. After all, don't we want to get the crud out, well, get it out with a filter change, the synthetic is still good, and at 10k change it all. Torn many motors apart with dino, and took HOURS cleaning the crud, and torn many with synthetic and took a simple wipe down and ready to go back. And the bearings were good enough to reuse but being from old school just couldn't find myself using them
Pennzoil used to have Z-7, and additive that REALLY did keep things clean, and Pennz was great. But with the changing times, to keep oil on the shelf with a competive price the additives were dropped and the quality did too. The Z-7 is no more, and the Pennzoil crud is present. And how many know that Pennz bought Quaker State and now make the Quaker oil to keep the price competive. Years ago Quaker was good, now Quaker Crud has appeared.
There really IS a different in filters. I'm sorry but cardboard does NOT make a good filter when wet. Like all have said, tear them apart and check. Remember, you get what you pay for. And I like my motor better than that.
And as ALL have said, take care of them and they will run a long time, no matter what you put in. You all admit to changing oil regularly, can't make a better suggestion than that. dino vs synthetic, doesn't matter as long as you change it.

Just my $.02 from these eyes.

[The Bondo King!]

ok, well wrap your mind around this one. my 89 chevy suburban was running for 180k beofre a reebuild was needed. it was driven hard. i used napa gold filters, and quaker state oil nearly every oil change (about every 4k). now, i just bought a 99 vw jetta for commuting, i got it from a guy who bought it from a dealership who did all that mandatory tuning like oil changes. they used synthetic oil. the guy drove it for 500 miles over the course of 6 months before he sold it to me. i changed the oil, and it had the consistancy of WATER. no joke. i nearly went into a panic attack. i was thinking about synthetic untill that point. what the **** happened there? was it just a really crappy oil, or is synthetic just that unpredictible?

[93bluesilverrad]

pensoil, quaker state maybe now, is parrafin based and that is what cruds up engines. you can use dino in new cars recommending syn oil but MUST change oil more frequently like 3000k miles works fine in normal driving but would void warranty if they could prove it. syn has better things going for it like fuel injection, but both are good at what they do so the choice is yours.

[hotrodpc]

Yikes, 93Blue, you might want to get on a current topic. This one is over 3 years old now. There just so happens to be 2 threads running right now, with current hits, One is Synthecitc vs Dino Oil, and I believe the other is comparisons of Synthectics vs Mobil 1.

[chevyguy]

Some thing to think about. My dads 93 4x4 has over 300K and he has never touched the engine internals and he used dino, Not even a timing chain yet. Changes oil every 5000 miles.

[hotrodpc]

Originally Posted by chevyguy

Some thing to think about. My dads 93 4x4 has over 300K and he has never touched the engine internals and he used dino, Not even a timing chain yet. Changes oil every 5000 miles.

Everyone NOTE, he said every 5000 miles. I chage my dino oil every 4500-5000 and I am told I am harming my motor that it needs to be done every 3000. NOT TRUE. Now if I were towing alot, or working it in extreme conditons, then maybe, but I firmly believe 5000 is sufficient. Service centers and oil manufactures have us brainwashed to do it at 3000.