S10 Intermittent "overnight" no start continues ,need help from electrical Guru

STRAYDOG · 10-25-2006, 06:42 AM

Update , have done several posts with my overnight cold start situation on my 98 S10 V6, I yesterday mourning discovered mouse nest in back at base of distributor & vacuumed it >> did nothing else ,turned key started immediately, drove all day & did many restarts .went full throttle & speeds up to 75. no problems or fuel starvation.
next mourning no start , i jiggled all wires & connections , she started immediately ran all day great.

Here are constants #1 no start always in mourning #2 usually damp mournings # 3 if jiggle all wires on top of engine starts & runs great all day #4 although sitution began a day after filling tank , now i dont think fuel related , I have replaced fuel filter & air filter, fuel pump running ,when she wont start i tried to see if fuel related via spray quick start did not work , wont even try to start.

Questuion next time no start, I will via process of elimination wiggle one component & turn key one by one .......... will also replace plugs wires & dist cap ( have never been changed 75 k miles)
what component on top of engine area do you think moisture is a possible factor on.

eaclark · 10-25-2006, 01:50 PM

If wires and dist cap are 75k miles old I would replace those, regardless if they are at fault. I changed my 2 year old dist cap when I lived close to the ocean like you and almost couldnt get it off there was so much corrosion on it. Living near the ocean is **** on cars and trucks.

With you being close to the ocean any bare metal (no paint or protection, open to the air) that come's in contact with moisture will begin to rust or corrode, causing poor connection or possible shorts. Yes some metals like aluminum and stainless steel are said to "not rust" but it's not always true. When 2 diffrent types of metal come in contact with each other in a wet enviroment, they will either rust, or corrode.

I would pull any connectors in the suspected area's in the wire "jiggling" and inspect them for rust, deposits, and corrosion. Also make sure everything is connected properly and has a good, tight connection.

Give your spark plug cables a good checking, if they are as old as you say, you may have a cracked, melted, or rubbed through jacket on one of your cables that when you crank it, instead of the plug getting the juice, it shorts to your engin.

STRAYDOG · 10-25-2006, 04:00 PM

eaclark...... I Agree tomorrow installing new plugs , wires & cap & rotor...thinking of also replacing ignition module within cap what do you think ??

"Semper Fi"

eaclark · 10-25-2006, 05:51 PM

You mean the rotor? I think it's best to always replace both at the same time since you got it open, and normaly if one needs replacing, they both do. If I remember right they are pretty cheep. Have you changed any of the above out before?

eaclark · 10-25-2006, 06:00 PM

Just read your other thread on this. Did you ever get the codes for the check enging light? Have you tried turning the key on and off (not all the way just to where dash lights up) a few times? Not sure if it's 3, 4, or 5 times. Dont know what year they started but that is a way to get it to put the code up on your digital display, but if you have no digital display, it may just make your check eng light flash, not sure.

STRAYDOG · 10-26-2006, 07:01 AM

Just got back from AutoZone , have new spark plugs , cap, roter & wire set .... will remove ignition control module & bring back to Autozone for testing ,if defective will replace. regrading check engine light it will remain on when she fails to start , however I jiggled wires on top of engine & light went out >> drove to mechanic ,he put on code reader & had no code or memory of code............wierd , anyways as noterd ,I am original owner & my s10 has 75 k miles was about time for replacement of ignition parts anyways .......if problem persists will one by one remove sensors & bring back for testing .....full report forth comeing......

STRAYDOG · 10-26-2006, 04:06 PM

eaclark, thanks for your advise & you were correct,the inside of dist cap badly corroded ..pulled plugs,was abast%rd doing it as my arms & hands to big >> old plugs were worn & gap over 65 tousanths..on two plugs enter eletrode worn badly....... one plug wire had a deep cut, >>>>>>>>> finishing up tomorow
Question where is ignition module located ? vortech 4.3L engine code X, is it next to coil on passenger side ? thanks

eaclark · 10-27-2006, 01:17 PM

Cool glad your making progress and hopefuly found the problem.

wojeepster · 10-30-2006, 06:35 PM

I recommend Tracy Martins book "How to diagnose and repair automotive electrical systems" Available on Amazon, I would replace regular maintenance items but his book will keep you from "throwing parts at it that you don't need to" It is a great book and an easy read. You don't usually find that in electrical books. It has saved me and my friends alot of money and made our cars more reliable in the process. For example my friends volkswagon would not charge. In 10 minutes I determined the generator was working, the regulator wasn't. Instead of replacing it I found a poor connection and the regulator and generator started doing its thing. No parts were replaced.

STRAYDOG · 11-09-2006, 12:18 PM

resolved Problem was bad coil, resulting in no fire 2 plugs was problem, resolved finally with plugs , wires, cap, roter, fuel filter , air filter & as noted new coil........

10-25-2006, 04:00 PM	#3
STRAYDOG Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Ipswich,Massachusetts Home of the Clam Posts: 52	eaclark...... I Agree tomorrow installing new plugs , wires & cap & rotor...thinking of also replacing ignition module within cap what do you think ?? "Semper Fi" __________________ Semper Fi Last edited by STRAYDOG; 10-26-2006 at 07:02 AM.

10-25-2006, 06:00 PM	#5
eaclark Full Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 35	Just read your other thread on this. Did you ever get the codes for the check enging light? Have you tried turning the key on and off (not all the way just to where dash lights up) a few times? Not sure if it's 3, 4, or 5 times. Dont know what year they started but that is a way to get it to put the code up on your digital display, but if you have no digital display, it may just make your check eng light flash, not sure. __________________ 94 GMC Sonoma ext cab 4x4 "Our flag will be recognized throughout the world as a symbol of freedom on the one hand, of overwhelming power on the other." - G.C. Marshall, Chief of Staff- WWII

10-26-2006, 07:01 AM	#6
STRAYDOG Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Ipswich,Massachusetts Home of the Clam Posts: 52	Just got back from AutoZone , have new spark plugs , cap, roter & wire set .... will remove ignition control module & bring back to Autozone for testing ,if defective will replace. regrading check engine light it will remain on when she fails to start , however I jiggled wires on top of engine & light went out >> drove to mechanic ,he put on code reader & had no code or memory of code............wierd , anyways as noterd ,I am original owner & my s10 has 75 k miles was about time for replacement of ignition parts anyways .......if problem persists will one by one remove sensors & bring back for testing .....full report forth comeing...... __________________ Semper Fi

10-26-2006, 04:06 PM	#7
STRAYDOG Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Ipswich,Massachusetts Home of the Clam Posts: 52	eaclark, thanks for your advise & you were correct,the inside of dist cap badly corroded ..pulled plugs,was abast%rd doing it as my arms & hands to big >> old plugs were worn & gap over 65 tousanths..on two plugs enter eletrode worn badly....... one plug wire had a deep cut, >>>>>>>>> finishing up tomorow Question where is ignition module located ? vortech 4.3L engine code X, is it next to coil on passenger side ? thanks __________________ Semper Fi

10-27-2006, 01:17 PM	#8
eaclark Full Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 35	Cool glad your making progress and hopefuly found the problem. __________________ 94 GMC Sonoma ext cab 4x4 "Our flag will be recognized throughout the world as a symbol of freedom on the one hand, of overwhelming power on the other." - G.C. Marshall, Chief of Staff- WWII

10-25-2006, 06:42 AM	#1
STRAYDOG Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Ipswich,Massachusetts Home of the Clam Posts: 52	S10 Intermittent "overnight" no start continues ,need help from electrical Guru Update , have done several posts with my overnight cold start situation on my 98 S10 V6, I yesterday mourning discovered mouse nest in back at base of distributor & vacuumed it >> did nothing else ,turned key started immediately, drove all day & did many restarts .went full throttle & speeds up to 75. no problems or fuel starvation. next mourning no start , i jiggled all wires & connections , she started immediately ran all day great. Here are constants #1 no start always in mourning #2 usually damp mournings # 3 if jiggle all wires on top of engine starts & runs great all day #4 although sitution began a day after filling tank , now i dont think fuel related , I have replaced fuel filter & air filter, fuel pump running ,when she wont start i tried to see if fuel related via spray quick start did not work , wont even try to start. Questuion next time no start, I will via process of elimination wiggle one component & turn key one by one .......... will also replace plugs wires & dist cap ( have never been changed 75 k miles) what component on top of engine area do you think moisture is a possible factor on. __________________ Semper Fi

10-25-2006, 01:50 PM	#2
eaclark Full Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 35	If wires and dist cap are 75k miles old I would replace those, regardless if they are at fault. I changed my 2 year old dist cap when I lived close to the ocean like you and almost couldnt get it off there was so much corrosion on it. Living near the ocean is **** on cars and trucks. With you being close to the ocean any bare metal (no paint or protection, open to the air) that come's in contact with moisture will begin to rust or corrode, causing poor connection or possible shorts. Yes some metals like aluminum and stainless steel are said to "not rust" but it's not always true. When 2 diffrent types of metal come in contact with each other in a wet enviroment, they will either rust, or corrode. I would pull any connectors in the suspected area's in the wire "jiggling" and inspect them for rust, deposits, and corrosion. Also make sure everything is connected properly and has a good, tight connection. Give your spark plug cables a good checking, if they are as old as you say, you may have a cracked, melted, or rubbed through jacket on one of your cables that when you crank it, instead of the plug getting the juice, it shorts to your engin. __________________ 94 GMC Sonoma ext cab 4x4 "Our flag will be recognized throughout the world as a symbol of freedom on the one hand, of overwhelming power on the other." - G.C. Marshall, Chief of Staff- WWII

10-25-2006, 05:51 PM	#4
eaclark Full Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 35	You mean the rotor? I think it's best to always replace both at the same time since you got it open, and normaly if one needs replacing, they both do. If I remember right they are pretty cheep. Have you changed any of the above out before? __________________ 94 GMC Sonoma ext cab 4x4 "Our flag will be recognized throughout the world as a symbol of freedom on the one hand, of overwhelming power on the other." - G.C. Marshall, Chief of Staff- WWII

10-30-2006, 06:35 PM	#9
wojeepster Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 92	I recommend Tracy Martins book "How to diagnose and repair automotive electrical systems" Available on Amazon, I would replace regular maintenance items but his book will keep you from "throwing parts at it that you don't need to" It is a great book and an easy read. You don't usually find that in electrical books. It has saved me and my friends alot of money and made our cars more reliable in the process. For example my friends volkswagon would not charge. In 10 minutes I determined the generator was working, the regulator wasn't. Instead of replacing it I found a poor connection and the regulator and generator started doing its thing. No parts were replaced.

11-09-2006, 12:18 PM	#10
STRAYDOG Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Ipswich,Massachusetts Home of the Clam Posts: 52	resolved Problem was bad coil, resulting in no fire 2 plugs was problem, resolved finally with plugs , wires, cap, roter, fuel filter , air filter & as noted new coil........ __________________ Semper Fi

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