More Questions...

[BryanCregger]

Okay so i'm in the process of figuring out exactly what it is that I want to do with my engine dilema which is that my 350 vortec is about to go kapoot. The truck is a 98 GMC K1500 ext cab.

I found a place that I can get an eagle rotating assembly pre installed in a machined and tested block for about $1300. My plans were then to use my factory heads and intake on the 383.

My queststion are

1. Will all of my factory parts bolt up. i.e. the heads, the intake, the pumps etc...

2. What kind of headwork should i expect to do? And also what rear seal would I want...I know its preference but I guess thats what I'm asking for is your preference.

3. I've heard that 383's handle more aggressive cams very well.. with that in mind does anyone have a specific cam that they would recomend?

4. In a perfect world I would like to keep this build under $2500. Will that be possible?

thanx guys and gals!

[436'd skylark]

1300 is not a bad price for the short block. vortec heads are a very decent casting. a slight clean up in the ports only to remove rough spots, and polishing and un-shrouding the valves in the chambers. The weak link in the vortec heads is the valve seal/guides. to run more than .480 valve lift, the guides must be cut down, or Bee-hive springs can increase that number some. its best to cut the guides, any machine shop could do it. the heads also crack alot, so have them magnafluxed. Then select a cam that matches your needs, towing or racing. All your accesories will bolt up to your new short block, as a vortec is a conventional gen I small block so no worries there. you might consider buying some sort of chip to enhance fuel and timing curves for the larger motor.

[75K30]

That is a crazy god deal on a short block with that crank, but most shrt blocks come with a cam? I am a little puzzled about that one.
You will be using a 350 block so everything will be the same as you have now. All accessories will bolt up.
Cam selection is critical, most guys go one that is with way too big, so be conservative. Making power with a smaller cam is easier than with a big one. I have used cams for 383's right at .510" / .530" lift and .050 duration right around 220 to 203 degrees. This will require head modification to accept springs that will fit. I use aluminum fast burn heads, and I prefer these ove vortec heads, but yours will work be alright. Do some bowl work, and you will like them. Keep an eye on compression with these heads, you do not want to go overboard here either, so do not cut too much off when rersurfacing, and don't get crazy with exotic head gaskets, a good ol fel-pro will be just fine. Since the engine does not have a cam, it is safe to say it does not have a timing chain, you will want a quality double true roller here, there is no resason to get cheap on this. Provided you can get the block for that price, you will be close to your $2500.00 target. God luck with it, it sounds like fun........

[BryanCregger]

thanx for all the info guys and ya i was unsure why i wasn't gettin a cam also....i'll ask him thanx everyone

but also on alot of engines it says like for example 65-87 in years... so would that not work right in my 1998 truck? or are they universal? and if not what has changed? Could i just use my stock camshaft as well or would that yield minimal performance?

[436'd skylark]

Originally Posted by BryanCregger

thanx for all the info guys and ya i was unsure why i wasn't gettin a cam also....i'll ask him thanx everyone

but also on alot of engines it says like for example 65-87 in years... so would that not work right in my 1998 truck? or are they universal? and if not what has changed? Could i just use my stock camshaft as well or would that yield minimal performance?

What are you trying to build? a tow truck or a fast truck?

[bradrhale]

a rear seal is going to be alot of preferance like you said. some people like the 1 piece because the chances are alot less that it will leak. but if you have to replace it, you will be wishing that you had put a 2 piece in. they are alot easier to replace. talk to the guys that you are getting the block from and ask them if they might be willing to trade in your cam and a couple of bucks and get something a tad bit taller. that will save you the $200+ for a cam that would suit your engine buildup a little better. dont put too much into the years listed. there are alot of things on the 350 that will fit everything else but there are a few parts that wont, i.e. fuel injection systems.

[436'd skylark]

Originally Posted by bradrhale

a rear seal is going to be alot of preferance like you said. some people like the 1 piece because the chances are alot less that it will leak. but if you have to replace it, you will be wishing that you had put a 2 piece in. they are alot easier to replace. talk to the guys that you are getting the block from and ask them if they might be willing to trade in your cam and a couple of bucks and get something a tad bit taller. that will save you the $200+ for a cam that would suit your engine buildup a little better. dont put too much into the years listed. there are alot of things on the 350 that will fit everything else but there are a few parts that wont, i.e. fuel injection systems.

I'd go one peice..

[BryanCregger]

well i don't tow thats for sure so i would say fast . I....i like speed

[bradrhale]

you and me both bubba.