'97 Suburban Brake Query!

[RollsRoyce]

Dear Chevy Brake experts:

If the following is covered in a prior thread please direct me . . .

I have a '97 K2500 / 454 / Suburban / Disc's Front / Drums on the rear with *ABS* . . . & I have a few questions for you experts out there . . .

My problem is that my front disc's are doing almost all of the braking . . . in 150K miles I have replaced the rear shoes only once . . . & my pedal has always been a bit *squishy* . . .

So, I have done a ton of research & am almost sure that I need a new Chevy / or possibly an aftermarket Proportioner Control Valve . . .

Anyway, to my questions . . . #1 Does this sound like this is my problem? #2 . . . If I buy one from Chevy will it be a re-run of the original one / or have they come to their senses & allow more pressure to go to the rears?

#3 = If I go *aftermarket* as in this example that I found on E-Bay = @ < http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=001&sspagename=STRK%3AME WA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=110111267129&rd=1,1 >.

Do you think these are *junk* or are they okay to use?

@ least in the descriptive blurb they mention the soft pedal & helping you save your front pads . . . Anyway again, any thoughts re: their use . . . and especially with my *ABS* . . . ??? Next = my mechanic wonders if this gizmo looks like it would be installed as the one that is on there currently / or does it look like it would require a custom install??

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated . . .

Best to all . . . RR . . .

PS#1 = I do not like my *ABS* = can I eliminate it or just pull the fuse ??? Same with my air-bags = can I just pull that fuse also??

[75K30]

How many times have you changed the front pads? I usually get over 60K out of my pads, even my lifted trucks with big tires.
The front brakes are designed to provide more braking than the rear. Brake wear is usually 2:1 front to rear. If the brakes were applied evenly, the rear would drag or skid, and the ABS would activate and the vehicle stops would be lengthened.
Drum brakes do not stop very well anyway, but since they are drums, you could just tighten them up. Adjust them to have a bit more resistance, and less travel, and that thing should stop well, and I would bet that this would tighten up your pedal.
I have a 96 tahoe with a D60 front (SAS) and a 14 bolt rear with 4 wheel discs with 35 inch tires and mine stops on a dime. I did run the ABS for a while, but it hurt off road performance, so I ditched the ABS and used an adjustable proportining valve.
I think yours could be adjusted out, and if you are getting reasonable mileage out of your front brakes, you might just be concerned about an issue that is not a big deal.

Oh yeah, welcome to the site..................

[RollsRoyce]

Originally Posted by 75K30

How many times have you changed the front pads? I usually get over 60K out of my pads, even my lifted trucks with big tires.
The front brakes are designed to provide more braking than the rear. Brake wear is usually 2:1 front to rear. If the brakes were applied evenly, the rear would drag or skid, and the ABS would activate and the vehicle stops would be lengthened.
Drum brakes do not stop very well anyway, but since they are drums, you could just tighten them up. Adjust them to have a bit more resistance, and less travel, and that thing should stop well, and I would bet that this would tighten up your pedal.
I have a 96 tahoe with a D60 front (SAS) and a 14 bolt rear with 4 wheel discs with 35 inch tires and mine stops on a dime. I did run the ABS for a while, but it hurt off road performance, so I ditched the ABS and used an adjustable proportining valve.
I think yours could be adjusted out, and if you are getting reasonable mileage out of your front brakes, you might just be concerned about an issue that is not a big deal.

Oh yeah, welcome to the site..................

I've probably replaced my front pads 6 or 8 times over the 10 yrs. & 150,000 miles . . . I think I get an average of 25-30K miles out of a set of front pads . . . I replaced the rear shoes @ near 100,000 miles. . .

And I agree with your 2 to 1 ratio . . . but as you can see, I'm getting closer to a 4 -or- 5 to 1 ratio . . .

I have read the *TSB'S* pertaining to this problem / & apparently many other owners have had these problems . . . the TBS recommends a different type shoe on the back & to replace the Proportioning valve / as a possible cure . . .

When I haul my trailers I always allow a lot of space for braking & try to allow extra space between me & the guy in front . . . of course then some knucklehead shoots right in front of me . . . L.O.L. . . .

Again, Thanks, & Best to you . . . RR . . .

[75K30]

I pull a 36 foot toy hauler, and I often go over the weight limits when I add gas for the toys, fire wood, water, oh yeah, and beer! So I can appreciate the whole trying to stop a little early and having a knuckle head swoop in! Have had more than one close call that way.
I still get great mileage out of my brakes, even with the trucks I use to tow the trailer, but your sounds like a problem. I used to get that type of mileage out of pads on the tahoe before I did the 1 ton swap. I do not have enough miles on it yet to know an interval yet. 15k on the drivetrain, and no sign of wear on any of the brakes.
Could very well be that the combo valve could be a viable solution. I have never done this, so I can't speak first hand, but it is cheap enough, and as long as the residual valve holds a bit more pressure for the rear, you should obtain favorable results.
Have you comsidered a disc brake set-up for the rear? Most kits come with a different combo valve with corected pressures for the upgrade. At least instaed of trying to guess at the solution, you would be headed in a better direction from the first step. Not expensive at all, and uses standard over the counter chevy parts. There are bolt in style, and weld in styles available. Iam sure this would solve your problem, and provide betteer braking. If you decided against the ABS, then you too could go to an adjustable prop. valve. You would not believe the improved braking that this provides.

[RollsRoyce]

Thanks for the re-fit disc's rear suggestion . . . I always assumed that was a complicated & expensive deal . . . think I'll check it out . . .

Have you got any websites / for reference / instructions / parts / kits / etc. suggestions??

Best . . . RR . . .

[75K30]

I will have to do a little loking. I just used some K30 front rotors for the rear, and used the studs to attach it to the hubs on my 14 bolt. Brackets were easily made, and I used front calipers. I see kits on evil-bay, all of the time, and I am sure that finding a comlpete kit is not much more than a couple of clicks away. I will look and see what I find that is similar to mine. I can't speculate on anything that I have not done myself, and had no experience with. Would not be fair to either of us.
With a little research I am sure you could find a reasonable kit. May also consider a kit that uses El Dorado calipers though. These will have provisions to still use your parking brake. My calipers do not have a mechanical provision for this. Makes it a little nicer, and would really look that much cleaner with an operational parking brake.

[75K30]

Here is what it should look like.
Try not to spend more than $500.00 (US) complete with loaded calipers that have parking brake accomodations.
Units without parking brakes should sell for arund $300, to $365.00 (US)
Hop this helps out a little.
The more expensive kits could be found for that money with everything you need, including the adjustable prop. valve.

Good luck
75K30