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Thread: Heat wont blow out of the floor vents.... much

  1. #1
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    Heat wont blow out of the floor vents.... much

    First, I searched for a previous thread but, didnt find anything that helped. On an 07 Dodge 1500 Big Horn with a Hemi, my heat just this week stopped blowing (very much) out of the floor vents. With the control knob on the floor setting, it blows hard out the defrost vents. All of the other settings work as they should. I just cant get very much out of the floor vents. It is some but, my head & upper body is frying before my feet ever start to get warm. I can put my hand down there & its coming out right by the hump over the tranny, just out from the accelerator, but not nearly like it comes out the defrost vents (while on the floor setting).

    I can only guess either the control selector isnt working correctly or the mecanical operation of the vent door isnt working right. But it seems like the selector is opening the wrong door OR isnt opening the floor door all the way which causes the defrost door to open. Make any sence at all?

    I am hoping I can just change the control selector in the dash.

  2. #2
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    if the directional flow door controller is out of adjustment or has a blockage in the duct, you should hear the malfunction. if not, it may have to due with the switch. if 07 still uses vac operated controllers, i have no idea.

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    I havent heard any noises like clunking, bumping or anything. I havent checked but I am pretty sure that the defrost vents are not open all the time. Only when in the floor position or the defrost position(s).

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    I have finally narrowed this problem down to either the floor vent/blend door actuator or the door itself has stripped. When I got this information, I came home & done some searching online. I found a video that a guy did while he changed one in his truck. I thoought, hummmm, I dont want to tackle this, so I will take it to the shop. Since, I have decided to review the video & maybe try it. The problem is, now I cant find the video again. I have searched high & low. Used all kinds or search strings & key words... no luck. I just cant find it.

    1) Does anyone know this video? Where it is?
    2) Would you advise a lay person to try this or not?
    3) Do you know what the service/shop time book calls for time on this job?

    Thanks

  5. #5
    Senior Member chevy_girl_85's Avatar
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    The proper book time for this job is 4 hours but don't be surprized if they quote you a little more...not all places go off of actual book time unfortunately.

    The dash will need to come out to replace this actuator and the whole box will have to come out if the door is broken. If so I would say another hour or 2 will be added to the time just for evac and recharge of the a/c system.

    Here is a picture of the box still in the truck but the box still in. You will see that the actuator for this door is almost dead center in the dash. I have replaced these actuators before with out removing the dash but I will tell you it is a real pain in the *** to do so.
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    Live Fast, Ride Hard

  6. #6
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    Thanks Chevygirl. I figure if the book calls for 4 hours, I could do it in ..... eight. Becuase I have never been removed the dash etc, I fully expect it to take me alot longer but it gives me an idea. I am not real worried about the time as I am assuming that if I dont get it changed in a couple of afternoons, I can drive the truck to & from work without a problem????

    Is there any way to block the door open untill I can get in there to change this actuator? I am assuming, again, that it may NOT be a good idea to try that as it may strip the door??? But, I dont know so I am asking. I figure if I could, I would just take a dowel or stick of some sort & block the door open for a few days.

    I sure wish I could find that video that I mentioned tho.

  7. #7
    Senior Member chevy_girl_85's Avatar
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    Your truck will be undrivable during this repair if you take the dash out. If you can try to take the heater ducting off of the box for the floor vents and see I you can see up in there. I have honestly never tried to prop them open or tried any quick fixes on those trucks before. I have been searchin and still no luck either on findin that video
    Live Fast, Ride Hard

  8. #8
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    i have the exact same problem with my f 250. my fix may be different than yours depending on how your heater control system works.

    on my f 250 the vent system is operated by vacuum, my 250 has an electric vacuum pump mounted on inner fender right next to a vacuum pulse solenoid... which operates the front hubs (4x4). i thought i was gonna have to remove my dash to... but found out my solenoid was bad, which not only would not let my vent control work... but also would not let my front hubs engage.

    i found this out by testing my vacuum lines and hubs for leaks with a handheld vacuum pump. for now i have the solenoid bypassed with the lines capped... which lets dash create vacuum.... and vent control works perfectly!

    and i have left my hand held pump attached to front hub vacuum lines, so when i need 4x4,, i just flip switch... go under hood and give pump a few squeezes.... and away i go.

    i just got to order me a new solenoid. and its a 5 min fix... if that. two screws, one electrical connector and a vacuum line.

    i cant say thats your problem, but i would find out for certain before tearin into that dash.

  9. #9
    Senior Member chevy_girl_85's Avatar
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    The 07 dodge is electronically controlled. Wish I was easy like that and they still used vacuum but haven't for quite a while now
    Live Fast, Ride Hard

  10. #10
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    bummer.... friend of mine has a ram, can't remember year, but has had to put 3 heater cores in it. said it was a royal pain in *** to remove that dash.

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