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Thread: Clutch hydraulic line between Master & Slave cylinder 1990 Dakota 2.5

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    Clutch hydraulic line between Master & Slave cylinder 1990 Dakota 2.5

    Went off the road in snow and managed to brake the hydraulic line/tube between the clutch master and slave cylinders. I can find some places that seem to sell teh whole assembly, master-tube-slave for about $100. But there are also places that seem to sell the cylinders separately. This would seem to mean the tube line should be removable and could be reinstalled without changing the whole assembly. The parts I see in the internet seem teh same between 1988 and 1994.

    Can anyone say how the tube can be disconnected, and where (besides teh junkyard - none there now) I might purchase said tube? Thanks.

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    Senior Moderator chevychase's Avatar
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    Clutch slave cylinder

    If link works yours anything like this?

    Gitter done have fun. Running on empty...running blind...running behind.....

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    Senior Moderator chevychase's Avatar
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    Seems does come off ..that is all i could find.

    Gitter done have fun. Running on empty...running blind...running behind.....

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    I may try and get the broken line off. If it comes off, then I can wait for one to appear at the junkyard. If it does not come off, or if the cylinders break, then its the whole assembly that is needed.

    Didnt know if anyone had actually made the disconnection before.

    Thanks.

  5. #5
    Senior Moderator chevychase's Avatar
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    Trying to save you time and money ..does your truck have bleeders for clutch?
    If not will have to get a set../slave cylinder.. with fluid all ready in system.

    Gitter done have fun. Running on empty...running blind...running behind.....

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    Got the master off. A c-clip holds it on the pedal, remove it and the rod slips off. Pull back slightly on the rubber boot against the firewall hood side. 1/4 counterclockwise turn of the cylinder - I had to use vice grips- it was in there tightly, and it comes off. I just pulled the reservoir hose off the cylinder rather than removing it.

    The line was cracked just past the master cylinder fitting. Cut the broken part off.

    Problem now is that I cannot press the line back onto the barb of the master cylinder. The line is too thick and hard, even using a heat gun. I think they must have had a jig of some dort to press such lines on.

    I can get teh barb fitting out. You tap out a roll pin, and the fitting comes out of the cylinder fairly easily.

    I saw a post on S10's where they chaged this fitting to an A/N screw on fitting. I will take to a local hydraulic shop to see if they have something that would fit. NAPA makes lines as small as 1/4 inch fairly cheaply.

    At least, that is the plan until a set - master-line-slave appears in the junkyard.

    I still do not know how parts stores sell the cylinders alone- the line is needed, even though I cannot see how to press it on.

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    Final

    Got a 1995 master-line-slave assembly from junkyard. The slave did not fit - it was circular, but with 2 sides of teh circle shaved off. Ended up pounding out a roll pin to free the line, put the old cyliners on the line, bled it as best I could and reinstalled. I have to push closer to the floor but it works.

    Careful when doing replacement - the pushrod from teh slave fell off and I had to fish it out blindly with a flexible magnetic pickup.

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    Senior Moderator chevychase's Avatar
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    Well your alright . A persistent one .type to gitter done.
    Glad it worked out ...and posting back.

    Gitter done have fun. Running on empty...running blind...running behind.....

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    Notes on changing 1990 clutch master-slave cylinder

    Originally was a unit: Master-plastic tube-slave cylinder.

    If just the tube is damaged, it can be removed by hammering out the roll pins at each end. But doing so I did crack part of 1 cylinder. Plus you would have to bleed system.

    Years after 1990 have a clutch interlock, that might be why interchange manuals say they are not usable for the 1990.
    There is a small plastic button on the inside of the cab on a bracket to stop the master cylinder from rotating – remove this before remocing the master.

    Before removing the master, look inside the cab and see how it is fixed in the bracket. To remove the master, rotate 1/8 turn counterclockwise and it should disengage from the bracket in the cab. It may take some force, and needs to be rotated from inside the engine compartment. It rotates counterclockwise looking at the firewall from inside the engine compartment.

    To reinstall the master, insert from inside the engine compartment. The master has a small square piece that fits inside the cab bracket. Once in the bracket, it is rotated from inside the engine compartment 1/8 turn. This turns the corners of the master square piece so they rest inside the bracket square cutout (the master square piece is more to the back of the truck than the bracket is. NOTE: I had to try and install multiple times sometimes none of the master square corners would be inside the bracket, sometimes only one. BUT even with this incorrect insallation, the master would feel secure and the truck could be driven. The clutch pedal would have to be pushed to the floor to release. I have seen the complaint of “pushing the pedal to the floor” problem elsewhere and this might be the problem. To correctly install, I had a friend take a screw driver and small stone to act as a lever inside the cab, and pry the cylinder from the firewall side of the bracket to push it into the bracket while I turned the master from inside the engine compartment. Ten it went in. NOTE: I tried with someone else to have them pull the master control rod from inside the cab – DO NOT DO THIS- the rod pulled out of the cylinder and could not be reinserted properly.

    When removing the slave cylinder at the junk yard, I found some felt like material at the base of the pushrod. I did not know if this was some kind of wiper/lubricator. If anyone knows, please let me know.

    CAUTION: when inserting the slave cylinder, I had the pushrod fall into the clutch housing. I was able to fish it out with a flexible magnetic grabber (blindly), but an added degree of caution would be prudent.

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    Senior Moderator chevychase's Avatar
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    Great info mr. j.k. thanks for posting it for others to read . Will help someone out some day .

    Gitter done have fun. Running on empty...running blind...running behind.....

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