Sorry, newbie needs help big time 89 Dodge D350 Problems

[TheStoneDoor]

Hiya Sorry to post for help right away but I am having problems with my dodge and need it for an upcoming trip in 3 days possibly.

I have an 89 Dodge D350 with the 360 in it, exact mileage unknown, is carberated now but was throttle body at one time. Power steering and power brakes.
It all started when I went out one day to start the truck and nothing, no clicking now slow cranking no nothing. Ok, charged the battery, still nothing. Put in new Battery, still nothing. So I took the starter off and jump tested it with the new battery, Worked fine, selenoid popped out and starter spun. Ok put it back on the truck and Nothing. No clicking no nothing.
So I went and got a new alternator for it (of course it was the most expensive one instead of the cheap ones as usual), Alternators were identical, old and new. Went home and put it on and noticed that one of the terminals on the cord side had been bent back and wasn’t attached to the old alternator. I untaped it and bent it back and attached it to the new alternator. Still Nothing, no clicking no nothing. Ok took the starter off again to bench test again, Again it was fine. the only thing I could think of was a bad ground so I put it back on the vehicle and bench tested it on the vehicle (from another car that was running) and it cranked fine and started. So I took a grounding wire and ran it from the negative terminal of the battery to the mounting bolt on the started. Started fine again.
NOWWWW, After you let it sit for a few hours or overnight it rotates a quarter turn then clicks. The battery still reads 11.9 volts, the terminal at the starter shows 11.9 volts but yet it cranks only 1/4 turn then clicks. I also noticed that the new alternator had a sticker on it that said externally regualated and there is absolutely no voltage regulator on this truck anywhere, not ont he firewall or fender. None. The books show it should have one but it doesn’t. When the vehicle is started it shows 12.5 volts at the battery. I dont’ have anything that can measure amperage though. I also had to wire in a push button for the starter because the ignition switch went out and when I replaced the switch it still wouldn’t work on for starting.
Maybe its the ground strap from the negative terminal to the starter bolt that could be causing a drain on the battery???
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you

[mrjohnwayne]

I believe those years had an external starter solenoid. That would be my suggestion. Should be on one of the fenders.

[TheStoneDoor]

no the selenoid is on the starter. the only tning on the firewall is the Starter Relay and thats fine, I swapped them between trucks and the other truck started fine.

[guidorr73]

Let me see if I can throw some ideas at you. First off is sounds like the original problem was the bad ground. Now with the truck running I would expect around 13.5 v if the alternator is working. Now since it was throttle body injection changed over to carb, someone either modified the computer or removed it. That extra wire that you untaped was probably for voltage sensing to the computer. If the wire is cut under the dash somewhere there is a potential ground somewhere. I would try to remove the wire you reinstalled and run the truck again to see if you can get the voltage back up. Just throwing ideas at you.

[TheStoneDoor]

I tried that, with that wire removed on the alternator the voltage then reads about 8 volts at the battery. And yes the Computer has been removed as far as I know.

[guidorr73]

The only other thing I can think of is the size of the ground wire you ran. If it too small, the voltage drop across the wire might be limiting the voltage to the starter. Will the truck run with the battery disconnected? 2 months ago I baught a new alternator from advanced auto, put in my car and it was not putting anything out. After a lot of checking and arguing, they gave me a different one and it has been working ever since. Does the voltage go up if you bring the rpm's up? Are you sure the new alternator is externally regulated? The only reason I ask is if there is no regulation, it could fry the battery by putting out too much voltage and also have an ac waveform on top of the dc voltage. Again just trying to help. Also if the truck does run without the battery hooked up, what is the alternator output.

[TheStoneDoor]

The sticker on the Alternator said externally regulated. I haven't checked (like a dummy) if the truck will stay running witht he battery disconnected, thats usually the first thing I check. The voltage does go up slighty to like 12.8 volts when the idle is increased. The other thing I noticed to is that it wont start on the battery thats in the truck even when fully charged, it will only start when I jump it with my VW Golf. I'll check on the running with the battery disconnected thing. AutoZone is where I got the alternator.

[TheStoneDoor]

Ok I checked the battery disconnected and it stays running. I also checked the big wire on the ALternator to a ground with the voltmeter and it says 13.2 volts. The other two smaller wires I'm not sure of.

The battery thats in the truck now isn't new but worked fine in my ramcharger for 6 months before i took it out and put it in this truck.

The ground strap I ran from the negative terminal to the Starter bolt is no bigger round than a round telephone cable if not smaller. I can't remember the gauge on it.

[guidorr73]

Sorry for the delay in reply, I can only check a few times a day. It does sound like the ground wire might be too small. Just a quick check, take a set of jumper cables and go from the neg of the battery to a good spot on the block and see if that helps the start situation. The ground strap should be at least a #8 awg to handle the starting current. If that helps, you can always parallel another wire for the ground. Backyard mechanic stuff but use what you got. The other thing that bothers me is the 13.2v with the battery disconnected. It should be 14v+. Can auto zone bench check the alternator? I know advanced auto by me does. Also the battery might have been good enough to start the ram charger but a little weak for the d350. Maybe a bad cell or a bad internal post connection. Advanced auto can load test the battery in the car.

[TheStoneDoor]

Well the RamCharger and the D350 are Identical, both have 360's and were converted back to carberation. Thats what has me confused to.
Yeah your right, I checked the voltage coming off the VW last night when I was jumping it, 13.9 volts.
I'm afraid to take it anywhere just in case it were to die and I may not get it started again lol.
The ground wire sounds like a possiblity and I thought maybe I was loosing charge through it or something (like a slow drain) I have a couple extra cables laying around I could try. I looks like I won't have time to get all this done before the trip so we'll be taking the F250 Diesel instead.
The only other thing I can thing of is a dead cell on the battery but that doesn't sound right if its reading still 11.9 volts all the time.
Do batteries loose amperage when they sit or just voltage? It sounds more like an amperage problem than a voltage problem.
Maybe I should just blow the truck up lol. It purrs like a kitten though when it runs. Its got me and two other local mechanics confused as ****.