F150 Duraspark Whoa's

[Krepalamaki]

In today's quest for truth we find our hero befuddled by an '82 F150 (Lariat, whatever that is) with a 351 and a remanufactured distributor and year old ignition module purchased from Advance Auto Parts (it's a plug for them as they have been helpful to this point). With the ignition switch in the "START" position, there is no spark. When the ignition switch is released to the "RUN" position, there will be a momentary spark but it don't light off. It sounds like it's gonna but only briefly. Removed duraspark ignition module and took it to Advance Auto Parts where the counterperson, who never done it before, hooked it up to a "tester" of some sort. It tested good (green light on the display).
Returned module to truck thinking that these things can be a persnickity and work sometimes and not others (seen it before with similar unit). No go, same problem. Called Ford garage, recited above and they said "bad module". Called another shop specializing in electrical problems and was told that he could check the module but it had to be on the truck (?) That don't compute with my logic as it don't run how am I supposed to get it there?
Any body got any ideas?

[75K30]

Sounds like a bad switch to me. Looks like the swich is bad as it makes contact for 12 volts to the ingnition.
If you have a multi meter this can easily be verified, but I still would not rule out the ingition module. I have a few on the bench at the shop that seem to work fune on local testing machines, but do not operate in a vehicle.
I have never had good luck with anything other than OEM modules.
DO you have a blue or red module?
DId you replace it with the correct one?
What was the reason you replaced the module in the first place?
I have had decent luck with salvage yard modules. I can distinguish an OEM unit and they are usually good and reliable.
You should try to bypass the ignition switch (easy to do right at the starter solenoid) and see if it runs. If it does, you can eliminate the "box". If it still does not, you may look into the switch.

[Krepalamaki]

Assume bad ignition switch? Oh Goody! (as it's in the column and accessibility will be more of a challenge).
Need a little more guidance on the multimeter testing procedure. Where or how are the leads to the switch accessed? At the two wire red and white plug connection to the module?
Not sure about the module color. The only thing blue on it is a plastic wire guide on the bottom of the box. There is a "6FD" stenciled in the filler material that's poured into the module to encapsulate the circuitry within.
This module has six wires going to two plugs. One plug has the red and white as mentioned the other has a green, black, orange, and purple.
The distributor and module were purchased as a unit (From Advance Auto Parts) replacing the original because this was a "California Spec" truck with a strange distributor, and stranger cap with the firing order rearranged. It also had a seven wire module with the additional wire going to the red/white plug connection. Parts for that unit here in Michigan were not available readily.
How do you identify an OEM module?
In your last statement it is assumed that the switch be in the "RUN" position and the solenoid jumpered to engage the starter. Is that correct?
I really appreciate your help Mr. 75K30.

[75K30]

There is much to consider here, and even more to type.
The change in the dizzy has me a little concerned, and a red flag did go up when I read that the firing order has changed. By chance did you start having problems after a recent repair, or was the truck running well, and then it quit?
At any rate here is some reading. Pay particular attention to the "Start mode Spark Test" as this should have a detailed description for the test procedure.
AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year
Good luck.

[Krepalamaki]

I apologize for any confusion.
The truck had been running fine and then just quit.
Copied the info from Auto Zone and am armed and dangerous.

The firing order never changed, but the connections to the distributor cap were not consistent between the distributor removed and the new one installed. The old cap had cross connections between some of the posts like it was firing two cylinders at once (similar to some new distributor-less ignitions that take their signals from the crank sensor on the harmonic damper-which this truck had previously. There was no internal hall effect pickup in the distributor.)

[75K30]

Did that actually have a hall effect sensor, or just a magnetic pick up / trigger?
Almost the same, but they do have different theories of operation.
Regardless, you have enough information to perform a reasonable amount of troubleshooting.
I do hope you can figure it out.

[Krepalamaki]

75K30, you still out there? Went on vacation, truck still broke. Here's what I think I know. Removed ig sw and checked with vom. Assume that you know your stuff about these switches. From "batt" to other connections, all checks for continuity worked except for check on P1, purple wire with white stripe that proceeds from ig sw to brake warning switch. No continuity with any other connection @ "off", "run" or "start". Has continuity with P2 @ "start" but wire connector has no female connector at P2. P2 not used. Possible ig sw?
No voltage at red wire to module with ig @ "on" position.
Red wire resistance reading was 7.9 ohms as taken from "batt" terminal on coil connector to red wire module connector (module disconnected). Test procedure says .8 to 1.6 ohms. Red resistance wire a possibility!
Did spark test with grounded spark plug at coil secondary post and it sparked when cycling from "run" to "off".
How do you connect the jumper you mentioned? Could it be two jumpers? One from hot post on starter relay to + on coil and the other from the hot post to white wire to the ignition module.
It's kinda strange that a resistance wire is still used even though the original logic was to reduce the voltage across the points during starting.

[75K30]

Resistance wires are still used;
Warning large!


link:
AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year