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| | #11 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 3,149
| Putting a new carb and intake on it, I'd say you need to be able to increase the exhale too. You should have a ton of room in that truck, maybe some headers and flowmasters. That ought to increse the pep a bit and make it sound real nice. If that is the engine I am thinking of, those things have a strong bottom end. |
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| | #12 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: N.Y.
Posts: 4,300
| Adapt it to a gm 350! ![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________ 4 wheels move the body 2 wheels move the soul B.W.A.I |
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| | #13 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 3,149
| With a stage 2 shift kit. Oh WTH, just go for it, do a Full Manual Valve Body. |
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| | #14 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 3,149
| Actually that would not be a bad idea Leo. Those Y block motors are strong as can be and hard to wear out, but they don't make alot of power, and anything he does to this thing is going to be overkill and to much. |
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| | #15 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Good ol' San Diego
Posts: 89
| The engine only puts out around 161hp I think, so I would imagine putting a new four barrel intake and carb would knock some more hp on it. But should/would I have to put a high gear differential to compensate speed? |
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| | #16 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 3,149
| No no no, better leave it a low geared rear end so it can enough torque to get out of its own way. Realistically, with the heads and cam in that motor, by adding a big carb, intake and even an exhaust sytem, just don't have many expectations. The cam and heads will be your bottleneck. It does no good to have a big carb that will bring in lots of air and fuel, if the valves are not going to stay open long enough to let it in, and the valves big enough to let it in, along with the ports being small and restrictive. Point is, that is strong, run forever motor, with enough hp and torque to move itself and be a hard worker, but it isn't going to do anything fast without major modifications. As far as dependability, you can probably bet your life on that motor to keep running. Parts will also be very expensive for it because it is somewhat rare now. If it were me, I'd find me a little small block for that truck. 289, 302 or 351. I'd imagine you'd have better luck finding a 351w than the other 2. You will get much more power out of that with later technology built by design and also more plentuful and cheaper parts. Wasn't that intake almost $400??? That alone would probably buy you a core motor to rebuild then a standard rebuild kit. And you intake for the 351w could probably be bought for half of that price for that one. JMO if I were you. DON"T get rid of that old motor though. I'd keep it around covered up out of the weather. Especially if the oringinal to the truck. |
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| | #17 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Good ol' San Diego
Posts: 89
| What about transmissions? Something like this? Borg Warner T10 , 4 speed Transmission or even this? Fully syncronized Chevrolet 3 Speed transmission Last edited by uranium67; 04-09-2009 at 01:15 AM. |
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| | #18 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 3,149
| So do you have a 3 speed column shift in the truck now? Either of those trans should work good if your bell housing will accept them. Those big top loader granny 4 speeds back in those days were as strong as could be too. You won't be doing any speed shifting with those though. My 64 GMC had a granny 4 speed in it, then I converted it to a Muncie M21 with a Hurst Comteition plus shifter. That was a very fun truck to drive. It had some pep in the motor and a Dana 60 limited slip diff with 4.56's. I got it sideways going into 2nd many times. Actually that drivetrain I took out of my 62 1/2 ton. The 1/2 ton I was always breaking driveshafts and rearends. Then into the 64 3/4 ton, it never broke the driveline or rear end. Much stronger. But then finally that is when I broke 2nd gear. The sky is pretty much the limit on what you can do to those old 60' model trucks. However, be prepared for breaking parts if you have to much fun. Yours may have a Ford 9in rear, which is a strong rear, so you may be OK there. |
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| | #19 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: rapid city, sd
Posts: 428
| y-block ford Hello. I have a 292 in a 64 ford f-250 4x4 and the first thing i would do is to get rid of the crossover exhaust. When you seperate the exhaust into headers(or a set of the ram horn manifolds), you will notice a tremendous difference. A 4-barrel intake is more likely to be found off of a 312 than a 292. If you really want to beef it up, find a set of K-heads off the 312. |
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| | #20 |
| Full Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 34
| Since you're open to anything and you seem to be the hot rodding type, I'd recommend a 460/C6 swap. You'll need a 9" rear end though and some stouter springs up front. It'd be well worth the effort though. |
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