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| | #11 |
| Full Member Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 21
| not these rotors and the haynes manule just says to pull if off but its not happening. i guess i can try a bigger hammer |
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| | #12 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Grande Prairie, AB
Posts: 2,043
| Quote:
no these ones are supposed to be "knock off" i recall a tsb about them, the dealer was having themselves and our shop pulling rotors off brand new trucks and putting anti-seize on, good thing we did, i recall using pullers, heat and BFHs to the point were i was exhausted getting rears off of alot of those superduties...
__________________ SUPERCHARGED 454 K2500 GMC! 450hp and 600ft/lbs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJ27RJHfJKE "sailing with Captain Morgan often!" | |
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| | #13 |
| Full Member Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 21
| there is no thread hole on these. the haynes manuel just says to pull them off after you remove the caliber mounting bracket. but its not working. i could try to use a bigger hammer |
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| | #14 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: West Covina, Ca
Posts: 363
| Quote:
That's going to be your best option. Done a few of these myelf, they can be a pain. Penetrating spray, heat, and a BFH will be your best friend. Alternate your blows to the rotor from one side of the hub to the other. You want to push all of it out not just one edge as that will cause it to stick further. You can hold a 2x4 of wood over the back of the rotor and then just go to town on it with the BFH. This way you don't have to worry about damaging the rotor itself but watch the wooden splinters that will go flying haha. GL!
__________________ '99 F350 5.4L crewcab Longbed | |
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| brake rotors, brakes |
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