460 swap in my 79 Ford F150 4X4 - Page 3

ErwinRommel · 10-01-2009, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crmzendrgone

Are you going to pull the heads? The cheapest and better degreaser is oven cleaner, Get it at Walmart and it works REAL GOOD!!! my 400ci Chrysler was black found out after the oven cleaner it was really blue.

Yeah, I will tomorrow I guess. Have to take off the manifolds for that though correct?

Someone (the guy that pulled this engine for me) told me to use oven cleaner too. Will it be safe to price inside the engine and clean it out?

ErwinRommel · 10-01-2009, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crmzendrgone

How far are you thinking about tearing the engine down to?

Put a cam in it and maybe lifters.
How far do I go for that? Just take off the heads?
I am going to the Comp Cam extreme 4x4 cam and lifter kit I think.

Crmzendrgone · 10-01-2009, 10:38 AM

"Price"??? Yes once you tear it all down you can spray it all down. Let sit for 10 minutes or so them wash off with water then blow it off with compressed air. You don't have to remove the manifolds but the oven cleaner may not be so nice to the gaskets, plus the heads plus the manifolds might be heavy unless your a big guy with some meat on you.

ErwinRommel · 10-01-2009, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crmzendrgone

"Price"??? Yes once you tear it all down you can spray it all down. Let sit for 10 minutes or so them wash off with water then blow it off with compressed air. You don't have to remove the manifolds but the oven cleaner may not be so nice to the gaskets, plus the heads plus the manifolds might be heavy unless your a big guy with some meat on you.

I don't have an air compressor. Could I just let it sit and dry?

I plan to spend $1000-$1500 on the motor maybe.

Crmzendrgone · 10-01-2009, 10:44 AM

Well if you putting a new cam in you definitely need new lifters. Head don't really need to come off not to familiar with fords not sure how to pull the lifters out. they should be in the valley I would think. you can pull the rocker arms then the push rods and see if you can get them pass the bottom of the head and the top of the valley.

Looking at the last pic of your engine I don't think you can snake the lifters out. Looks like you'll have to pull the heads. That's good though, that will let you know what the condition of the cylinders are.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ErwinRommel

I don't have an air compressor. Could I just let it sit and dry?

I plan to spend $1000-$1500 on the motor maybe.

I would wipe as much of with a rag then let dry in the sun. Just want to avoid rusting.

Just DON'T pull the cam before the lifters. Get complicated, then you loose them in the bottom of the engine.

Could you take an overhead pic of the engine for me I am curious how ford designs their blocks. I can't tell in your last pic of the block?

hotrodpc · 10-01-2009, 10:53 AM

The D5VE means its a 75 Lincoln Engine Part. So you probably have a 75 motor since that all looks to be original.

ErwinRommel · 10-01-2009, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hotrodpc

The D5VE means its a 75 Lincoln Engine Part. So you probably have a 75 motor since that all looks to be original.

It's actually a 71 Lincoln block I think. Cause it had D1VE-6015-A2B.

I will take pictures of it soon too CRMZ.

hotrodpc · 10-01-2009, 09:42 PM

Yes, it can be the design. Ford is like that. The same mold D1VE can be used for several years, so it is hard to tell what year exactly it is. The D1VE 460 block, I think was used up until 76, so your motor could be anywhere from a 71-76 Linclon. By that intake, that would narrow it down to 75 or 76 since you know the block was differant for 77 and intake was an original cast of 1975. Gotta love them Fords ehhh??? Must be a secret to what they really are. Of course GM does sorta the same thing. A 3970010 block is a Large Journal 327 and 350 block from 68-84 or soemthing like that. Not positive without looking. Its just that GM uses cast #'s and then adds an actual date code, not using the date code as the cast #. It makes it much harder to ID Ford parts.

ErwinRommel · 10-04-2009, 06:40 PM

I am going to take off the heads now but I need to know what torque do they need to come off with and to go back on?

batty1214 · 10-04-2009, 07:33 PM

as far as the swap goes, I swapped a 460 into my 78 ford f250, took out the 400m, and I had to buy(easier) motor mount towers from Trans Adapt to move the motor back a little bit, to gain room for the engine fan.....other than that, The transmisson, and bell housing bolted right up, minus one bolt..... for what My truck was, I didnt worry about it..... good and easy swap, I would have used the original engine towers, but I was too cheap to go with electric cooling fans,
now I wish I would have, and I also wish I would have pulled the radiator from the old 6.9 diesel truck I had and used it..... I had a little problem with the factory radiator when I hooked on and started pulling 15-20,000 with it.........It didnt cool like I wish it would have.... It ran about 200 all the time, and I wish it could have been down 180ish.....

10-01-2009, 10:38 AM	#23
Crmzendrgone Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 1,420	"Price"??? Yes once you tear it all down you can spray it all down. Let sit for 10 minutes or so them wash off with water then blow it off with compressed air. You don't have to remove the manifolds but the oven cleaner may not be so nice to the gaskets, plus the heads plus the manifolds might be heavy unless your a big guy with some meat on you. __________________ ENGINES PRODUCE POWER. MOTORS RECEIVE POWER. https://lastroundbestround.com/Home_Page.html

10-01-2009, 10:53 AM	#26
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,177	The D5VE means its a 75 Lincoln Engine Part. So you probably have a 75 motor since that all looks to be original. __________________ *Winners NEVER Quit , Quitters NEVER Win !!!*

10-01-2009, 09:42 PM	#28
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,177	Yes, it can be the design. Ford is like that. The same mold D1VE can be used for several years, so it is hard to tell what year exactly it is. The D1VE 460 block, I think was used up until 76, so your motor could be anywhere from a 71-76 Linclon. By that intake, that would narrow it down to 75 or 76 since you know the block was differant for 77 and intake was an original cast of 1975. Gotta love them Fords ehhh??? Must be a secret to what they really are. Of course GM does sorta the same thing. A 3970010 block is a Large Journal 327 and 350 block from 68-84 or soemthing like that. Not positive without looking. Its just that GM uses cast #'s and then adds an actual date code, not using the date code as the cast #. It makes it much harder to ID Ford parts. __________________ *Winners NEVER Quit , Quitters NEVER Win !!!*

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10-04-2009, 06:40 PM	#29
ErwinRommel Banned Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Georgia Posts: 579	I am going to take off the heads now but I need to know what torque do they need to come off with and to go back on?

10-04-2009, 07:33 PM	#30
batty1214 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Vernal Utah Posts: 1,135	as far as the swap goes, I swapped a 460 into my 78 ford f250, took out the 400m, and I had to buy(easier) motor mount towers from Trans Adapt to move the motor back a little bit, to gain room for the engine fan.....other than that, The transmisson, and bell housing bolted right up, minus one bolt..... for what My truck was, I didnt worry about it..... good and easy swap, I would have used the original engine towers, but I was too cheap to go with electric cooling fans, now I wish I would have, and I also wish I would have pulled the radiator from the old 6.9 diesel truck I had and used it..... I had a little problem with the factory radiator when I hooked on and started pulling 15-20,000 with it.........It didnt cool like I wish it would have.... It ran about 200 all the time, and I wish it could have been down 180ish.....