460 swap in my 79 Ford F150 4X4

[batty1214]

I bought all of my gaskets for resealing my 460 at Napa for about 100 dollars for all of them, and that included the valley pan.... I too would use Felpro gaskets... I have had some issues with the Mr. Gaskets

[ErwinRommel]

Well I'm going with Summit because of the bill me later thing. They have that 90-120-360 day bill me later.

What do yall think I should get?

[ErwinRommel]

Any idea what I should get from Summit Racing to put in my 460? Open up to opinions!


Have a budget from 1,000-2,000 dollars!

[hotrodpc]

First things First. You need to decide, WHAT are you doing to the engine? A rebuild (rings and bearings) or a remanufacture (bore, new pistons, resize rods, turn crank etc), or you just gonna re seal it and run it???

[ErwinRommel]

Originally Posted by hotrodpc

First things First. You need to decide, WHAT are you doing to the engine? A rebuild (rings and bearings) or a remanufacture (bore, new pistons, resize rods, turn crank etc), or you just gonna re seal it and run it???

Well, if I have them to hot tank the block, I'm going to need a new camshaft bearing.
I want to get a new cam with new lifters, pistons (which can get me a 9:1-10:1 compression ratio with my 73 heads), intake manifold, carburetor....

you know where I'm going to.

Them hot tanking my engine will cost me 60-70 dollars from what they said. They said my cylinders have little wear but in good tip top shape.

[hotrodpc]

OK, Cool, so you are doing a rering job, but it sounds like it will work out close to a reman job if your cylinders are in that good of shape. Do you know your compression ratio on your pistons now? How about the cc volume of your head, your pistons etc. This is how you figure all that out. Keep in mind, whatever your comp ratio is, you may need to just stick with it anyway. New pistons will crush your budget. On todays pump gas, you really don't need hi compression anyway, unless you are running a great biggo cam with lots of valve overlap. So with all that cubic inch, even at 8 to 1, and strong RV or Mild cam, you should not have alot of valve overlap, and still able to have a torque monster and some hp to go along with it. You are building a mud truck right? Not a race truck? That is another first things first. Decide your purpose and what you are building. I'd also consider a valve job to the heads, make sure its a triple angle. With an RV or Mild cam, that should save you on the some machine work to the heads too for dual springs. Find out what your max lift and duration are to be for single valve springs, and a step or below that for security and being sure. Also when you have the valve job done, they should resurface the head. They may take off a tad, that will raise your compression a hair. If you are that certain you want to raise the compression ratio, the cheaper way out to get a little compression increase instead of buying new pistons, would be to buy some very good thin metal head gaskets. Keep in mind, using those thin metal type head gaskets, YOU WILL have to retorque your heads at least once and when I used them gaskets, I did it twice just to be sure. A retorque at 1000 miles with the first break in oil change, and agian at 3000 miles with another oil change. Probably overkill to be honest, but that's just me. When I spend a couple grand on an engine rebuild. You can trust I take my time, do it right, use lots of plastiguage, torque and re torque, and keep it all very clean and pre lube as you go. Also keep it covered in the garage when not working on it. It keeps dust and junk from landing on the motor that are airborne. Again, overkill but no such thing as going to slow or being to clean.

[ErwinRommel]

I got this off of 460forums....thing is, is that they use D0VE HEADS but use the D3VE HEADS for the 375-400Hp.

375-400HP 460ci

Intake System:

Holley 750 vacuum secondary
Edelbrock Performer Rpm Intake Manifold

Cylinder Heads:

Heads can be D0VE or D3VE with mild port job and port match
(315-ish/180-ish cfm @.600)
Intake valve size 2.08
Exhaust valve size 1.65
Stock rockers.

Short Block:

Comp Cam XE262H Hydraulic flat tappet cam or equivalent
(Specs:262/270 adv., 218/224@.050, .513/.520, 110 LSA)
Compression around 9:0:1
Stock crank
Stock rods with good bolts
Standard volume oil pump
Stock oil pan with windage tray

Exhaust:

1.75" headers to dual 2.5" pipes with H-pipe. Good flowing 2.5" Magnaflow mufflers or equivalent.

Summary:

91-octane. Keep redline to 6000 rpm.


400-425HP 460ci

Intake System:

750cfm Holley DP professionally calibrated for your application
Edelbrock Performer Rpm Intake Manifold

Cylinder Heads:

D0VE heads with mild port job and chambers polished
(315ish/180-ish cfm flow @.600)
Intake valve size 2.08
Exhaust valve size 1.65
Stock rockers.

Short Block:

Comp Cam XE262H Hydraulic flat tappet cam or equivalent
(Specs:262/270 adv., 218/224@.050, .513/.520, 110 LSA)
Compression around 9.5:1
Stock crank
Stock rods with good bolts
Standard volume oil pump
Stock oil pan with windage tray

Exhaust:

1 7/8" headers to dual 2.5" pipes with H-pipe. Good flowing 2.5" Magnaflow mufflers or equivalent.

Summary:

91-octane. Keep redline to 6000 rpm

450-475HP 460ci

Intake System:

750cfm Holley DP professionally calibrated for your application
Edelbrock Performer Rpm Intake Manifold

Cylinder Heads:

D0VE head with mild port job, chambers polished and port match
(315-ish/180-ish cfm @.600)
Intake valve size 2.08
Exhaust valve size 1.65
Roller rockers.

Short Block:

Comp Cam XE274H Hydraulic flat tappet cam or equivalent
(Specs:274/286 adv., 230/236@.050, .562/.565, 110 LSA)
Compression around 9.5:1
Stock crank
Eagle I-beam rods
High volume oil pump
Deepened oil pan with windage tray

Exhaust:

1 7/8" headers to dual 2.5" pipes with H-pipe. Good flowing 2.5" Magnaflow mufflers or equivalent.

Summary:

91-octane. Keep redline to 6500 rpm.



I can't use D3VE heads then? To gain over 400+hp?

[hotrodpc]

Originally Posted by ErwinRommel

I can't use D3VE heads then? To gain over 400+hp?

Apparently not, according to your posted info, if its correct and you go by what they have here. The DOVE heads are likely 1970. You have the D3VE heads, so there you probalby have the smogger heads and the reason why. Also larger combustion chambers that will lower your compression ratio. 375-400hp is going to be good for your truck. Keep in mind, that is 375-400hp with some torque to back it up. Going fast cost lotso money. I'd build what you got. With that cubic inch, you are going to have plenty of power and torque if that motor is freshened up. Although, if you are going to spend the money getting port and polish work done, then if I were me, I'd look for the DOVE heads. If you are spending money on machine work, spend the money on some good cores, not some middle of the road cores. That way you are getting a better bang for your buck. Also keep in mind Big Blocks usually don't like high RPM without a lot of work to the bottom end, or they will come apart. So, don't over do the top end if you are not building the bottom end to handle it or you'll be seeing some rods come out of that motor in places you don't want to see and likely trash the block. To me, its looks those cam specs are within range to still run single springs on the valves too, and no need to flycut the pisons. I am sure your pistons are not going to be a problem anyway. They are probably dished pistons, at best flat tops. Again, if you are making a mud truck, you are going to be fine with that motor freshened up, an RV or mild cam, Nice Dual Plane intake (DO NOT USE A SINGLE PLANE, You'll lose your low end torque) like an Ed Performer, 750cfm carb as suggesed, a set of headers and run it. If you keep it to that, you should not have to spend a forturne on machine work, and strengthening the bottom end etc.

[ErwinRommel]

Originally Posted by hotrodpc

Apparently not, according to your posted info, if its correct and you go by what they have here. The DOVE heads are likely 1970. You have the D3VE heads, so there you probalby have the smogger heads and the reason why. Also larger combustion chambers that will lower your compression ratio. 375-400hp is going to be good for your truck. Keep in mind, that is 375-400hp with some torque to back it up. Going fast cost lotso money. I'd build what you got. With that cubic inch, you are going to have plenty of power and torque if that motor is freshened up. Although, if you are going to spend the money getting port and polish work done, then if I were me, I'd look for the DOVE heads. If you are spending money on machine work, spend the money on some good cores, not some middle of the road cores. That way you are getting a better bang for your buck. Also keep in mind Big Blocks usually don't like high RPM without a lot of work to the bottom end, or they will come apart. So, don't over do the top end if you are not building the bottom end to handle it or you'll be seeing some rods come out of that motor in places you don't want to see and likely trash the block. To me, its looks those cam specs are within range to still run single springs on the valves too, and no need to flycut the pisons. I am sure your pistons are not going to be a problem anyway. They are probably dished pistons, at best flat tops. Again, if you are making a mud truck, you are going to be fine with that motor freshened up, an RV or mild cam, Nice Dual Plane intake (DO NOT USE A SINGLE PLANE, You'll lose your low end torque) like an Ed Performer, 750cfm carb as suggesed, a set of headers and run it. If you keep it to that, you should not have to spend a forturne on machine work, and strengthening the bottom end etc.

Someone told me I can do something to my heads to make them better like D0VES. I know pistons will help too..

[hotrodpc]

Sure, you got enough money for machine work the sky is the limit. You can actually spend more money on heads than you do the whole block. Most very FAST race engines, that is the case anyway. But you mentioned you had a budget. Doesn't sound like you are going to be sticking to it very well. There are going to be somethings you can improve on the D3VE heads, like mild porting and grinding out any smog bumps in the ports, but noting you can do for combustion chamber volume which is the biggest emphasis on compression ratio other than cc of the dish or the dome of a piston. If it were me, to stay within budget, I would find out of the the D3VE head has a smog bump that can be ground out of it. IF so, you can probably do that yourself. Past that, I would do nothing more than a valve job to included, hot tank, magnaflux, triple angle valve job, REPLACEk (Not Knurl) any bad or close to marginal valve guides, head resurface just enough to true the head, not milling off to raise the comp ratio. You mill off to much, you can get into situation where you have to mill the intake too so it will now fit, then you have to rework gaskets too, and if not very experienced with those things, you can really create a big mess and what you expect to run awesome will be nothing but a heap of junk. Sounds like your cam kit is going to included new springs. Really!!! if its your first experience building a motor, I would stick to the basics, taking your time, stay within your budget, so if something does or did go wrong, you have not got mega bucks tied up in it. I'll repeat it again, I think you'll be impressed with that motor freshened up, a mild RV cam, a nice intake and carb, and a nice set of headers and exhaust. With 460 cubes, you are going to have plenty of power out of it. Doing that, you should be able to stay close to your budget, not overbuild the top end to kill the bottom end and also not have to beef up the trans, driveline, rear end or anything else and it will be a good fun running plenty of power for a mud truck. That is why most people like big blocks. You really do not have to do alot to them, to get some impressive results. You got $10 grand, I am sure there are plenty of us here that can probably get you to 600hp and 500ft lb torque. But then you better have a few grand to upgrade everthing behind the flyewheel to the rear wheels too. I am thinking you might be getting a bit ahead of yourself here on this one.