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| General Truck Forum - Open Forum (truck related) |
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| | #21 |
| Senior Moderator Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: michigan
Posts: 7,155
| you obviously haven't seen these boys use a plasma cutter. shot, if i knew i was going to need an exhaust flange i would have saved some of the metal i just s*******. i wonder how much they would charge me to get some back? hahaha |
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| | #22 |
| Senior Moderator Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: michigan
Posts: 7,155
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| | #23 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,312
| Late model silverados, and even fords. Just have to find the one that is the correct diameter. The ones pictured are from flowmaster. I see these ball flanges at the salvage yard all the time. I pick up the real good looking ones. I use them quite often. I am amazed at how well they aork without leaking. |
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| | #24 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 1,177
| Yeah those are purdy. I just may have to use some next time I have to replace someones exhaust... They seem like they'd set just like headers to a y-pipe... |
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| | #25 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: N.Y.
Posts: 4,931
| don't forget it should be made out of stainless
__________________ 4 wheels move the body 2 wheels move the soul B.W.A.I |
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| | #26 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,312
| I am not debating, and agree that stainless is nice, but factory units are not stainless, and SS is pretty expensive. I am sure one can argue that the fasteners might benifit from being made from SS, but under the heat conditions anti sieze does not stay on thebolts and just burns off. This means that every time the bolts have to be removed they must be replaced. (ask me how I know, lol) I chop factory units from salvage yards many times, and every factory ball flange has been carbon steel. Besides, welding a SS ball flange to a carbon steel exhaust pipe or CS cat converter would cause the flange to rust anyway. I suppoose using a stainless bolt and a carbon steel nut could work, and prevent the two SS fasteners from becoming one solid unit, but CS hardware seems to work just fine. |
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| | #27 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 895
| I have always used a stainless bolt with a brass nut and have never had a problem removing them when need. The old chevys that I used to have as a kid always had brass nuts at the manifold for holdin the exhaust pipe so I figured it would work on the flanges also. |
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| | #28 |
| Senior Moderator Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: michigan
Posts: 7,155
| hmmm, thread is over a month old and i still haven't fixed the exhaust. there is good news and bad news though. bad news, my exhaust has a stress crack because the "mechanic" hacked off the factory hanger. the good news, the crack is where the flange has to go and i found a complete section for it at autozone. no more searching for the flange, now i just need to find the gasket (i think i got it at carquest last time) and weld it up. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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| | #29 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: N.Y.
Posts: 4,931
| Get the gas out and weld it up I don't need no new pipe ![]()
__________________ 4 wheels move the body 2 wheels move the soul B.W.A.I |
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| | #30 |
| Senior Moderator Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: michigan
Posts: 7,155
| my wire feed barely handles sheetmetal, i may just use an exhaust clamp with the new pipe section. |
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