painting help

[silverhairdeere]

Originally Posted by 64shortbed

on bare metal its better to use some self etching primer first. then scuff it with a scuff pad. then primer over that with any primer you want(a good primer). then sand that with 320 or400. then you sould be ready for paint. if you really want it to stay i would use good paint not a $1 can from dollor general. napa does sell some good paint.

the other idea is to have it powder coated. its tough and durable. and may last longer then the truck.

just my two cents hope it helps out

the dollar store stuff is made by the same company that charges you $4.00 a pop , last time i read there were only 4 companys making spray paint under different labels .

shd

[lukasmcdukas]

i used the napa stuff semo mentioned- self etching means it builds up thicker than plain primer, helps fill scratches/grinder marks, and gives you a thicker base to sand. i used it on my ranger. it also has a slight texture to it, so it helps your later coats bond better and helps prevent future flaking. i'd recommend using it.

[bradrhale]

wax?? i am not going to wax a roll bar.
a friend of mine has been advised to use the self etching, than a primer, sealer, paint, and lastly a top coat. but his application is a car hood and top, alot different from what im doing. i dont think that i should have to purchase all that. the paint and all would cost more than the bar and all the stuff i am attaching to it.
i do have access to a spray gun and everything of the like to spray one using the mixed paints rather than the rattle cans. the good auto paint in a rattle can at the parts house is 6 bucks. havent exactly decided how i will apply this but the can sure does seem alot esier to apply.

[lukasmcdukas]

unless you're looking for showroom quality finish, you could cut out the primer, sealer, and top coat. etching primer will give you a nice thick layer to begin with. a good solid coat should do, then 2 or 3 coats of your paint should protect it just fine. for a roll bar, if it were my project, i'd buy 1 rattle can of self etch, a sheet of 400 and a sheet of 1000 grit, and 2 rattle cans of finish color and call 'er good.

[silverhairdeere]

Originally Posted by lukasmcdukas

unless you're looking for showroom quality finish, you could cut out the primer, sealer, and top coat. etching primer will give you a nice thick layer to begin with. a good solid coat should do, then 2 or 3 coats of your paint should protect it just fine. for a roll bar, if it were my project, i'd buy 1 rattle can of self etch, a sheet of 400 and a sheet of 1000 grit, and 2 rattle cans of finish color and call 'er good.

my kind of guy , don't forget the metal prep . as for wax , than don't expect it to last !! even rattle can deserves protection .

shd

[lukasmcdukas]

thanks shd, i forgot to mention metal prep. a wire wheel and dewalt 18v cordless, tack cloth, and some acetone work great, based on personal experience. as for the wax... i see what shd is gettin at, but waxing a roll bar does sound a little goofy. can't hurt though, and for the extra minute or two of application, it's probably worth it.

[silverhairdeere]

even as poor as we are , take the time and do it right the first time , not the 2nd or 3rd time . wax makes paint last longer period .

shd

[75K30]

This does not have to be that difficult. In just about everything that I have to paint, I use plain old Krylon (color of choice) and Krylon Crystal Clear.
First prep the surface. This is the key to success. Poor prep work will mean poor results. Once you have the surface smooth, you can paint right over anything. Bare metal or anything.
Here is a hint, clean the surface with laquer thinner anc a clean lint free towel. The apply your color of choice, and before the paint dries, spray a light coat of clear. With a project this size by the time you get the end, it will be time to start another coat. The clear has a great deal of catylist and will dry exceptionally quick. Be sure to not let it dry too much before you apply more.
Keep it tacky but not too wet or the clear will run and fog up.
Apply a liberal amount, and let it cure. You will have a finish that will last and last and last. Because it was applied to color while it was wet, it will bond to the color, and will not flake off.

I have been running my frames and other odd ball parts like this for years. I can maintian a shine, and appears to be professionally painted.
If you are looking for a step up above just painting, take some 600 sand paper and wet sand the product after it has cured. SInce it is only clear, this process is quick and easy. Dont sand too much or you will run right into paint, and this will fade quickly.
Rub the clear out with some finish compund and this thing will shine for almost ever. really even in direct sunlight it will last.
Again, my stuff is subjected to oil, brake fluid, gas, all sorts of cleaners, and degreasers and still maintians a shine for years.
Cheap and easy.......

Frame done this way (notice that other parts of the frame are dirty and hammered. This is just an area that was recently painted. No frame off stuff here, just rattle cans.




Here is a fabricated shock mount being welded and you can see that even the heat generated by the weld did not disturb the painted surface. Now thats tough stuff!





Try this on a sample piece of pipe or tube and you will think its powder coat.....

[silverhairdeere]

Originally Posted by 75K30

This does not have to be that difficult. In just about everything that I have to paint, I use plain old Krylon (color of choice) and Krylon Crystal Clear.
First prep the surface. This is the key to success. Poor prep work will mean poor results. Once you have the surface smooth, you can paint right over anything. Bare metal or anything.
Here is a hint, clean the surface with laquer thinner anc a clean lint free towel. The apply your color of choice, and before the paint dries, spray a light coat of clear. With a project this size by the time you get the end, it will be time to start another coat. The clear has a great deal of catylist and will dry exceptionally quick. Be sure to not let it dry too much before you apply more.
Keep it tacky but not too wet or the clear will run and fog up.
Apply a liberal amount, and let it cure. You will have a finish that will last and last and last. Because it was applied to color while it was wet, it will bond to the color, and will not flake off.

I have been running my frames and other odd ball parts like this for years. I can maintian a shine, and appears to be professionally painted.
If you are looking for a step up above just painting, take some 600 sand paper and wet sand the product after it has cured. SInce it is only clear, this process is quick and easy. Dont sand too much or you will run right into paint, and this will fade quickly.
Rub the clear out with some finish compund and this thing will shine for almost ever. really even in direct sunlight it will last.
Again, my stuff is subjected to oil, brake fluid, gas, all sorts of cleaners, and degreasers and still maintians a shine for years.
Cheap and easy.......

Frame done this way (notice that other parts of the frame are dirty and hammered. This is just an area that was recently painted. No frame off stuff here, just rattle cans.




Here is a fabricated shock mount being welded and you can see that even the heat generated by the weld did not disturb the painted surface. Now thats tough stuff!





Try this on a sample piece of pipe or tube and you will think its powder coat.....

great job .

shd

[bradrhale]

75, the krylon paint and krystal clear, are these the only two things that you use?? how many coats of paint are you shooting?? did i understand right that right after you shoot the final coat of paint that you shoot the clear coat before the paint has dried?? any specific type of krylon that you use?? i know that they make several different types including rust preventative and regular, as well as pit and oven paint.
this is the very simple, cost effective thing that i have been looking for. black is the color that i have chosen so i should have results very similiar to yours.