painting help

[64shortbed]

hey silver.. im sorry if i offened you with the $1 paint remark but what i ment was if you want a good job and want it to last why not buy the little better stuff is all. i use spray paint all the time for stuff and i have noticed that the cheaper paints out there just dont hold up as well to the element as the little more money paints do. krylon is good paint i also use a lot of dupli-color. i like it it hold up very well. my area napa sells dupli-color and martin senour automotive paints. base coats and clear coats are a very good paint system. for stuff lick roll bars and frams and nurf bars i like to use a acrilic urethane. it holds up very good and the gloss will last for many years with little care. heck my last car(83 1/2 monte carlo ss) i had i repainted the hole think with urethane drove her that way for 6 years and didnt wax her once just washed every other week. the bottom of my 97 chevy is urethane also. it goes down dirt roads and still looks good.

so all im sayin is why not spend a little more and have it last ten times longer...

oh 75 frame looks very good.

[silverhairdeere]

you didn't offend me , but i live on a fixed income and can only buy what i can afford , and that goes for everything i buy .

shd

[bradrhale]

i do plan on spending a little more to make this work and look good but i do not plan on spending 2 and 300 bucks for this project. very interested in 75s take on this as his thought process is right with mine. simple for simple minded folks such as myself.
i have been advised to stay away from the duplicolor in the quart cans that you spray yourself. have had several people tell me that it comes out chunky and does not thin well. if that were the case, i dont want to go that avenue as i would have to mess with that and setting up the guns at the shop when i could buy high dollar rattle cans and do this alot easier. as little surface area as this thing has, i do not have as much worry about keeping a wet line when i shoot it so a rattle can in my opinion is the best way for me to go.

[64shortbed]

i have never used dupli-color that you shoot with a paint gun. didnt know there was such a thing. lol. i like the spay paint though never had any problems with it my self. the automotive marten senour paint is good stuff though. some can get pricey buy the time you buy the hardner and reducers. so i understand your point.

[bradrhale]

hopefully, i will get to start this project tomorrow. there is a jeep with a bad clutch in the shop at the moment and have an oil change and a few other odd ball jobs to the pete in the morning. that is, if the jeep gets out tonight. dont feel bad 64. i found it on the shelf at oreillys the other day. quart cans ran 22 or 23 a piece. they did not recommend using that stuff.

[og25]

i'm not a painter by any means, but when i painted my log splitter i used valspar equipment paint spray cans. all of the stuff i painted was raw steel or sandblasted. i used their gray primer and then painted it, following their instructions. a couple guys thought i had our paint shop do it. as far as how long it lasts time will tell. 5$ a can at tractor supply.

[75K30]

Originally Posted by bradrhale

75, the krylon paint and krystal clear, are these the only two things that you use?? how many coats of paint are you shooting?? did i understand right that right after you shoot the final coat of paint that you shoot the clear coat before the paint has dried?? any specific type of krylon that you use?? i know that they make several different types including rust preventative and regular, as well as pit and oven paint.
this is the very simple, cost effective thing that i have been looking for. black is the color that i have chosen so i should have results very similiar to yours.

Just plain old regular paint. Some gloss black and some crystal clear enamel. You almost have to spray it on the wet painted surface or you will have to let it completely dry and sand to prevent the clear from wrinkling up. Once you have a coat on, then let it dry and put enough clear on it to make it shine. Any overspray can be sanded later. Do not apply any more clear after the real coat has been applied. Use just enough to make it shine, and dont get too crazy, or it may run, cloud up or fish eye.
As far as the amount of paint, you just put enough to lay down some color. See the clear provides the protection, and not the paint The base, or paint is just there to provide color. Too mich paint and the paint can crack or even chip. So the less the better. Of course dont use too little and leave thin spots that you will see when the sun hits it, but just enough to cover up the bare steel.
Once his is done, and you are dry you can sand the project down with some light sand paper. I use 600 or 800, and I usually do this wet with a little liquid soap. DO not get too over zealous, as the clear is real easy to cut. If you sand and see color on the paper, or the water starts to turn black, you have gone too far, and will have to dry competely, and apply more clear. Just sand enough to remove the orange peel effect, and call it good. Rub by hand really, and use a decent finish compound like imperial hand glaze, or a light cut compound. No heavy rubbing compunds. I mean the 800 paper will still leave the project rather shiny. It wont take much to really make the clear pop with shine.
I am telling you, you will be amazed at how well this will shine, and how well it holds up. Even the bottom side of my rig can still shine with minimal scrubbing.
This process has worked well for me, and is cheap as can be. No need to buy reducers, and a gun, the rattle can is not a bad tool.

[bradrhale]

i am going to try this and post up some pics of it when i get done. like i said, ive got to break out the welding equipment and fabricate some small brackets and do some other stuff to it before i start sanding it down for prep. i would love to get started on it this weekend but that might not happen.
can this rattle can process be used on body panels such as the floor of the bed??

[75K30]

Originally Posted by bradrhale

i am going to try this and post up some pics of it when i get done. like i said, ive got to break out the welding equipment and fabricate some small brackets and do some other stuff to it before i start sanding it down for prep. i would love to get started on it this weekend but that might not happen.
can this rattle can process be used on body panels such as the floor of the bed??

Yes, yes it can but you have to work in areas that are eay to work with. The clear will not be as easy to apply with a uniform coat as it is on a ppiece of pipe or tubing or something.
I know you have a chuck of pipe laying around. Try painting one, and then lay on some clear. You will only have to sand this a little bit at the end, just cut down some of the orange peel then rub it out with normal car cleaning wax and you will have a shine on the old pipe that appears to be a pro finish.
My drag links and steering components are painted with this method. They hold up well to road debris and other stuff I run into.
Again, experiment with the procedure and fine tune it before you attempt the final project. You will develop a technique of your own, and will find what works best for you.
Be careful not to apply too much clear at one time, or it will fog up.
Practive on some stuff to learn. Its cheap and easy with great results ince complete.

[bradrhale]

i had planned only to apply light to medium coats at a time and let dry before starting the next coat. is this wrong?? you have expressed that i need to shoot a light spray after the last coat of paint and then one other coat of clear. did i get this wrong too??
didnt get to experiment today. fab time took over as i kept running into engineering problems. i have decided to hang the spare baja style on the roll bar but upon planning this, i realized that i could gain access to a toolbox located beneath the roll bar. had to make a way to get to it without removing the spare each and every time. but i have worked through this and got it going my way. i need to do the last bit of welding to the hanger that the tire mounts to and grind a little of the welds. then it is sanding and prep. this might last another 2 weekends if i am not careful as i dont want to start sanding this thing down until i am ready for paint so the metal doesnt get a chance to rust. unlike some other places that i wont mention, one day of bare metal here makes quite a bit of rust.