painting help - Page 4

75K30 · 05-16-2009, 08:04 PM

Clean everything so it will take some paint without issue.
Paint as normal, just not too much base.
Lightly dust the clear without tryint to make it shine right away. You are just covering not loooking for shine, yet. Apply while color is still wet. Not immediately wet but tacky.
Ok, paint is tacky and you have lightly dusted some clear, you started at one end of your project and now completed all the way to the other.
Start back from the beginninng, only make sure that you paint from the bottom up or it will run. Thats a little paint trick.
Start from the bottom work your way up while you spray. Look for shine and be carefull not to apply too much. You dont want cloudy clear. Bubbles will appear if you apply too much.
You are looking for shine right now, so have at it. DOnt run it, but dont be too afraid to lay it on good.
This will be dry real quick, but the base will still be soft so you will have to let this set up for a day or two.
After the entire thing is set and cured, you can sand lightly with some 600 then some 800. Wet or dry, i prefer wet.
Not crazy sanding, just looking to make everything hazy, and dull. Shiny spots means that you have orange peel and you must sand a little more.
Once you have a dull surface without shiney spots, then you can rub it out. Round tubes are pretty easy to do by hand. Have at it and then look at how the thing shines. You will be amazed.
Goona look like a pro finish and it may only cost a few bucks. Interesting part is that if you ding it with a tool or something that flies around back there, you can touch it up with,,,,,,,drum roll,,,,,a rattle can. Just scuff the area smooth again, and spray a little color, immediately hit it with some clear. Let dry, wet sand the area to blend, rub out and the problem is all gone leaving a pro repair that will still look great.
Again, practice agin, and get the hang of it, and you will have a killer paint job from a rattle can.

bradrhale · 05-16-2009, 08:20 PM

a day job. i like this more and more. love the touchup method as well. for the paint, just good coverage. will do. thanks for the knowledge.

bradrhale · 05-19-2009, 07:28 PM

alright, here we go. i have traded my steel wheel (spare) for a dodge alloy to match the others on my truck. in the trade, i reserved the steel wheel to practice with. the lst 2 days was spent getting the paint and other off and ready for paint tomorrow. if i can find the camera, ill post up some pics to let yall know if i am going to go into the redneck auto paint business.

rc1richard · 05-19-2009, 09:45 PM

Something I done a few years back was to by the industrial enamel paint from sherwin-wiliams when I painted my dump truck. After I sprayed the truck I let it set a few days and lightly hit it with a scotch brite. Then I clear coated it with napa clear coat to get it to shine. So far its held up good and was much cheaper than auto paint.

bradrhale · 05-20-2009, 07:48 PM

here is almost ready for paint.

and here is after paint and clear.

i learned a valuable lesson with this. lots of light is needed. it might seem like there is a good bit of light but after coming back with a flashlight, i noticed a couple of small thin spots that i didnt get very well with my base coats. lessons learned. thank goodness it was learned on a test piece instead of what i am intending to paint.

75K30 · 05-20-2009, 08:02 PM

Hey right on! You are a painter.......
Now when this is dry, this is tough on this piece, to work out your practice, but take some regular old cleaner wax.
Believe it or not I like to use 3M products. Hit the wheel with some perfect it compound, then perfect it II. Follow this with a little imperial hand glaze and you will have a finish that is smooth as butter. These are not waxes so you will have to wax after.
This sounds like a bunch of rubbing, but it is not. You will rub very little. The compounds will cut the clear very easilly. If you dont sand, and there is minimal overspray or orange peel, you can eliminate the first step. Use Perfect it II, and maybe wax after that. If you have some small scratches from rubbing, then glaze it before you wax.
YOu are on the road to a perfect finish.
That stuff shines pretty good huh?????

64shortbed · 05-20-2009, 08:04 PM

looks good!

and paint is funny like that. even in a paint booth. since ive worked at this body shop we have had to repaint one car after we pulled it out. because i though it had good coverage and cleared it and when we pulled it out side to put it next door we could still see a faint primer line. lesson learned there too. boss was upset but didnt doc me for it.just used it as a leason.

bradrhale · 05-20-2009, 08:09 PM

thanks everyone.
that was alot easier than getting the gun out with a great shine. if i would have read the back of the can, i would have found out that it says the same things that you said except for shooting a light coat immediately after shooting the final base coat. since this project was small, i had to let it set for a minute or two.
there is no overspray or orange peel. no fish eyes. i do have a sheet of 1000 grit that i was planning on using late Fri afternoon but if i can skip that and use the perfect it 2, then wax, i will try that instead. where can i find the perfect it 2?? any specific kind of wax you use??

75K30 · 05-20-2009, 08:35 PM

3M perfect it compounds and polishes are availabe through paint stores. This is pretty much pro stuff. The bottles are only about 10 bucks and are pretty good stuff.
You will be like a kid in a candy store looking at all of the compounds. Perfect it must have a dozen or so. All are different grades, but the ones I listed will work just fine.

Sanding a surface like this may be difficult because the surface is not smooth and has many edges. These edges are high and you will sand right through the clear to the base coat and you will ruin the finish. You will have to prep and clear all over agin, so be carefull.
Not to aggressive with the polish, and you will have a shine man, I mean a real shine!
Many boat shops carry 3M products and these are available online.

bradrhale · 05-23-2009, 02:56 PM

wasnt this a great idea!!! stripped the paint off this mornin and found 2 small patches of bondo. they are not more than 3 inches wide and 4 and 5 inches long. all of a sudden, rain came and made it humid as hades out here so that busted me for paint. did get the rest of the welding done and have sanded it down with 220. i will have to wait for next weekend to hit it with the 400 and paint as i think my weekend just got alot busier on other projects.

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05-16-2009, 08:04 PM	#31
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,992	Clean everything so it will take some paint without issue. Paint as normal, just not too much base. Lightly dust the clear without tryint to make it shine right away. You are just covering not loooking for shine, yet. Apply while color is still wet. Not immediately wet but tacky. Ok, paint is tacky and you have lightly dusted some clear, you started at one end of your project and now completed all the way to the other. Start back from the beginninng, only make sure that you paint from the bottom up or it will run. Thats a little paint trick. Start from the bottom work your way up while you spray. Look for shine and be carefull not to apply too much. You dont want cloudy clear. Bubbles will appear if you apply too much. You are looking for shine right now, so have at it. DOnt run it, but dont be too afraid to lay it on good. This will be dry real quick, but the base will still be soft so you will have to let this set up for a day or two. After the entire thing is set and cured, you can sand lightly with some 600 then some 800. Wet or dry, i prefer wet. Not crazy sanding, just looking to make everything hazy, and dull. Shiny spots means that you have orange peel and you must sand a little more. Once you have a dull surface without shiney spots, then you can rub it out. Round tubes are pretty easy to do by hand. Have at it and then look at how the thing shines. You will be amazed. Goona look like a pro finish and it may only cost a few bucks. Interesting part is that if you ding it with a tool or something that flies around back there, you can touch it up with,,,,,,,drum roll,,,,,a rattle can. Just scuff the area smooth again, and spray a little color, immediately hit it with some clear. Let dry, wet sand the area to blend, rub out and the problem is all gone leaving a pro repair that will still look great. Again, practice agin, and get the hang of it, and you will have a killer paint job from a rattle can.

05-16-2009, 08:20 PM	#32
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 8,012	a day job. i like this more and more. love the touchup method as well. for the paint, just good coverage. will do. thanks for the knowledge.

05-19-2009, 07:28 PM	#33
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 8,012	alright, here we go. i have traded my steel wheel (spare) for a dodge alloy to match the others on my truck. in the trade, i reserved the steel wheel to practice with. the lst 2 days was spent getting the paint and other off and ready for paint tomorrow. if i can find the camera, ill post up some pics to let yall know if i am going to go into the redneck auto paint business.

05-19-2009, 09:45 PM	#34
rc1richard Full Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 16	Something I done a few years back was to by the industrial enamel paint from sherwin-wiliams when I painted my dump truck. After I sprayed the truck I let it set a few days and lightly hit it with a scotch brite. Then I clear coated it with napa clear coat to get it to shine. So far its held up good and was much cheaper than auto paint.

05-20-2009, 07:48 PM	#35
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 8,012	here is almost ready for paint. and here is after paint and clear. i learned a valuable lesson with this. lots of light is needed. it might seem like there is a good bit of light but after coming back with a flashlight, i noticed a couple of small thin spots that i didnt get very well with my base coats. lessons learned. thank goodness it was learned on a test piece instead of what i am intending to paint.

05-20-2009, 08:02 PM	#36
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,992	Hey right on! You are a painter....... Now when this is dry, this is tough on this piece, to work out your practice, but take some regular old cleaner wax. Believe it or not I like to use 3M products. Hit the wheel with some perfect it compound, then perfect it II. Follow this with a little imperial hand glaze and you will have a finish that is smooth as butter. These are not waxes so you will have to wax after. This sounds like a bunch of rubbing, but it is not. You will rub very little. The compounds will cut the clear very easilly. If you dont sand, and there is minimal overspray or orange peel, you can eliminate the first step. Use Perfect it II, and maybe wax after that. If you have some small scratches from rubbing, then glaze it before you wax. YOu are on the road to a perfect finish. That stuff shines pretty good huh?????

05-20-2009, 08:04 PM	#37
64shortbed Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: scott city ks. Posts: 158	looks good! and paint is funny like that. even in a paint booth. since ive worked at this body shop we have had to repaint one car after we pulled it out. because i though it had good coverage and cleared it and when we pulled it out side to put it next door we could still see a faint primer line. lesson learned there too. boss was upset but didnt doc me for it.just used it as a leason.

05-20-2009, 08:09 PM	#38
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 8,012	thanks everyone. that was alot easier than getting the gun out with a great shine. if i would have read the back of the can, i would have found out that it says the same things that you said except for shooting a light coat immediately after shooting the final base coat. since this project was small, i had to let it set for a minute or two. there is no overspray or orange peel. no fish eyes. i do have a sheet of 1000 grit that i was planning on using late Fri afternoon but if i can skip that and use the perfect it 2, then wax, i will try that instead. where can i find the perfect it 2?? any specific kind of wax you use??

05-20-2009, 08:35 PM	#39
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,992	3M perfect it compounds and polishes are availabe through paint stores. This is pretty much pro stuff. The bottles are only about 10 bucks and are pretty good stuff. You will be like a kid in a candy store looking at all of the compounds. Perfect it must have a dozen or so. All are different grades, but the ones I listed will work just fine. Sanding a surface like this may be difficult because the surface is not smooth and has many edges. These edges are high and you will sand right through the clear to the base coat and you will ruin the finish. You will have to prep and clear all over agin, so be carefull. Not to aggressive with the polish, and you will have a shine man, I mean a real shine! Many boat shops carry 3M products and these are available online.

05-23-2009, 02:56 PM	#40
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 8,012	wasnt this a great idea!!! stripped the paint off this mornin and found 2 small patches of bondo. they are not more than 3 inches wide and 4 and 5 inches long. all of a sudden, rain came and made it humid as hades out here so that busted me for paint. did get the rest of the welding done and have sanded it down with 220. i will have to wait for next weekend to hit it with the 400 and paint as i think my weekend just got alot busier on other projects.