the wiring thread

[mudseeker]

thought we could start a thread on what to do and what not to do when it comes to wiring.

i'll start.

but.t connecters are a big nono if you're working around me.


first you need to strip back atleast an inch of insulation of the wire ends.


this is what happens when you use non-sealing connectors.
these wires will need to be cleaned up to make a good connection.


next, push the wire ends together and twist them tight after slipping heat shrink over the wires.


half way there.


now you need to solder the wire. i'm not the best at it, so you get a pic of the product used.


on the home stretch.


now this is where i show you the step i missed due to being distracted by someone. heat shrink to go over all the heat shrinked wires. oops


look ma! working trailer brakes.

[BernieB]

Just a couple of things I feel a need to point out...

• Waterproof butt splices work very nicely
• 3/4" of stripped insulation is fine
• A Western-Union splice is preferred with solid wire, while your style is fine for stranded
• You seem to be using plumbing solder and flux, which is acid based and could cause problems in an electrical splice (rosin core solder is the preferred choice)
• Staggering the splices by an inch or so avoids the problem of a big lump of splices in one spot
• A dab of pure silicone caulk on each end of the final heat-shrink will keep water from wicking under it and corroding the splices

[mudseeker]

good points, that's what this thread is here for.

* goes to look up western union splice on google*

[BernieB]

Let me see if I can help you out there...

A Western-Union splice (as taught to me by my 9th grade electrical shop teacher, Mr. Bergavoy) is what they used to use to make fast repairs on the old telegraph lines. What you do is strip back about 3/4" of insulation (telegraph lines were bare copper though) and then put an "L" bend in each bare section, about 2/3'rds of the way back from the end. Now, hook the two L's together, so that one leg is straight up, the other straight down. Now, tightly wind the ends around the shaft of the opposite wire (left wire wraps around the shaft of the right wire and vise-versa), getting at least five tight wraps around each. The result is a splice (if done right) that's actually stronger than the original wire. (I know this because Mr. Bergavoy used to give us pass/fail tests on these splices by holding each end of the wire behind the splice in a pair of pliers and pulling straight out until something broke. If the wire bloke, you passed. If the splice broke, you failed)

You can solder the splice if you want, and it will help prevent corrosion in the splice, but you don't have to if the splice isn't exposed to weather.

[BernieB]

Here's a good image of it:



Note how the wraps after the first two are tight and close together?

[chevyguy]

When i soldier and use enviornmental splics like you do. I put moly grease on the soldier joints before I heat shrink it. Kep corrosion at bay.