Front receiver hitch for a 1986 K2500

[chengny]

Anyone ever dealt with this issue before? I can't find a bracket to mount my new Mile Marker 12k winch to. It (the winch) is already mounted on a stock Mile Marker plate with a male tang extending backwards that is designed to slide into a piece of 2" X 2" square tubing. These "front receivers", as I believe they are called are everywhere and consist of a welded frame that is appropriately drilled and with the aforementioned 2 X 2 steel tubing extending forward. Bolt the frame to the truck, slide your winch mount in to the receiver, supply power and start winching stuff!

Problem is; no one seems to sell one that will bolt to my truck. They all stop the K2500 line at the year 1988 (going back).

I can't believe that no one ever mounted a hitch on a 86 K2500. What is weird though, is that they do sell a unit to bolt to a GMC C2500 truck up to 87.

What, praytell, is a C2500 (GMC)? Is it just another name for a K2500 when it comes to winch mounts?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Jerry

[stumpuller454]

a C2500 is just a 2wd pickup, the frames should be the same, so that unit should work, but may want to double check with someone, or find a 2wd and measure it for sameness,...(:

[chengny]

Ah, that's the C designation. Thanks - it may matter though. The various vendors are adamant about the C/K difference. I'll check - and thank you for the response.

[75K30]

The K series truck has a skid plate that limits the use of a front mounted reciever. These aftermarket recievers usually bolt up under the frame, and there is not much room to pull this off.
You do however have room behind the bumper, but have to get a little creative to access it. There is not a company that will mak one for this application, so this is where you have to get creative. You can find a "universal" type that bolts to the inside of the frame rails, and will penetrate the bumper. You can make an access behind the front license plate, and use a flip style bracket to obtain access when needed. AT this point you can decide on welding, or bolting the thing in there, and should work just fine.
If you can weld, and do a little fabrication, these are simple to make. Once installed, you will be the envy of all of your friends, since nobody else will have anything like it.
Here is a small pic of just this type of install. Although this is on a different
style vehicle, the concept is the same, and should give you an idea. In this case, I used a rear reciever for a late model F150, and had to turn it upside down to get it to work. Came out pretty clean, and one can't even tell it is there, until I remove the license plate. Oh yeah, the plate is also mounted on a 2x2" square stock, and is retained right in the reciever for street use. My winch and other extraction devices are easily installed, and this only cost me about $40.00. The price of the used reciever from the salvage yard.
If you can't find it, make it, thats what I always say.
Alright, the pics are too large, but my reciever fits right behind the front bumper. I can re-size, or simply e-mail them to you, if you would like pics, PM me, and we can swap e-mail info.

75

[chengny]

Thanks Mr. 75K30,

Before I even read your advice I had decided to fabricate my own. It is a fairly straight-forward process - or so it appears at this point.

I have a line of sight under the bumper directly to the extreme forward cross-member - with sufficient clearance for the 2 X 2 steel tube.

My thought is like this:

Make a template that duplicates the angle of the cross-member (it is canted back about 10-15 degrees from bottom to top - about the same angle as the windshield for example).

Machine that angle at one end of the square tubing (I say machine but it will probably just be cut with a hacksaw).

Chamfer all four sides of the square tubing at the altered end.

Pre-drill a piece of flat stock (1/4" X 2") - that has been sized to span the entire cross-member - to accept 4 (four) 5/8" -11NC SS bolts.

Center punch and drill through the cross-member at the appropriate spots to line up with the holes in the flat bar.

Weld the square tubing to the flat bar using 7018 rod (3 passes - no pre-heat necessary I think). Bolt the thing to the cross-member - but leave it hanging loose.

Take another piece of flat stock (a bit beefier for this part - maybe 1/2" X 3") and crop out a square hole that is just a slight interference fit to the outside dimensions of the square tubing.

This new cross member will be cut to fit between the truck's longitudinal frame members (basically the same size as the previous flat bar) and chamfered at the ends for welding.

Grind to near-white metal at the weld points on the frame (as close as possible to the bumper I think).

Slide the new cross-brace over the square tubing, make up the bolts that were previously left slack and weld the brace to the frame and also at the interface between the tubing and the brace. Again using 7018 rod but only two passes.

I hope that the three passes and the 5/8" fasteners will provide sufficient strength in the axial direction and that the heavy guage bar and the way it surrounds the tubing will prevent any torsional deformation.


Please add your thoughts, I have never attempted this modification before and I might very well be not seeing the forrest for the trees.

Thanks again,

Jerry

[75K30]

7018 rod huh? Good old structural welder, or you are just out of welding school (complete guess), or perhaps the use of 6010, or 6011 has not been developed yet?
7018 is good rod, provided it is stored properly, and provided that moisture has not gotten to it. I see too many boxes opened from the wrong end, and too many 7018 rods sitting around exposed to moisture for far too long. Really rough on a very low hydrogen rod. Before I get all crazy about rod, let me start by saying that you have really though this out, and If I may be so bold as to say that perhaps over done it a bit. While I can appreciate your desire for strength, I am a little concerned with you desire to make this so permanent. I am never too crazy about welding to a frame, nor am I ever excited about making such a permanent modification. I have a little concern about the method you are considering for your contour. Relieveing the tubing, to make a bend is not the best method around. I say this because I have broken several hitches over the years, and for this reason I favor a less permanent method to attach, and try to keep bends and cuts to a minimum.
If you search around for "universal type" mounting systems, you will find some recievers that have a slide on end that is already pre-drilled for a between the frame style installation. This will allow you to cut the square tubing at a length that will fit between the frame rails, and have a pair of brackets that will slide over the tube and allow installation. Once the tube is placed between the rails, the mounting brackets can them be slid toward the frame, and bolted to the frame. This will capture the center tube, and not allow it to move in any direction. A bolt on each end can be used to take up any slack, or slight movement and prevent rattles. Probably would take less than an hour to install a reciever with this design, and if you must find a reciever that has a contour, I suggest finding one that already has a bend. Several rear units are bent from the manufacturer to clear spare tires, and can be used up front if it is cut down to fit between the front frame rails. After you install the universal type mount that can slide over the cut ends, the install should be a snap. You can then weld it together if you wish, but grade 8 hardware will be ample.
Couple of things to keep in mind.
Sometimes this may have to me removed, and welding it in prevents this.
You may want to pay attention to where the pin is going to be located after the bumper is re-installed. Have seen some guys have to lay under the truck just to gain access to the darn pin. Hidden hitches all have this problem, and you do not want to have such limited access to the pin that it becomes a burdon to install, or even remove.
Anyway, sounds like you have a good plan already, just keep saftey in mind, afterall there will be a ton of weight on this thing.

[chengny]

Let me digest this advice.

[chengny]

Good thing I didn't spec 1/16" 8018 rod for the initial pass- lol.

Never been to welding school - retired chief engineer (45 years old). Spent the last 15 years runnning 900 psi/1200 degree super heat steam plants. Here's the rub - as a marine engineer. Ran supertankers up and down the west coast. When contractors came down into the plant to make repairs while the vessel was in port I needed to know a bit about what they were up to. If they did poor work, and a weld on a high pressue steam line failed -for example - after we had sailed, guess who took the heat and had to make the temporary fix.

I always required brand new (unopened) boxes of rod and no reputable contractor would bring anything other than that anyway. The regulatory agencies would x-ray all critical repairs - anything that could put the vessel or personnel in danger was closely inspected. Blah, blah, blah...

Having said all that; I think you are right. I may have possibly over-engineered this project. But I still think that I need to weld the front cross brace to the inside faces of the frame. There is just not enough room to get a good strong bolt-up. I just checked, there is nothing in the space above that area that would need to be removed. The radiator is there, but that releases upwards.

Also, I didn't mean to give the impression that I was going to bend the square tubing. I only need to cut it with a hacksaw across the back end at such an angle that it will mate with the after (rear?) cross brace - the 1/4" X 2 that will bolt to the truck's cross frame.

I'm going to see a guy right now and see what he thinks. Let you know.

Jerry

[75K30]

Sounds reasonable. Good luck, maybe some pics when you are done. I would like to see that completed.

75